Mighty belt-tracked vehicle powers over sand, dirt and snow!
User-friendly Readyset with 2.4GHz R/C system also provides blade arm control!
Powered by two independent side-by-side motors, the transmission in the Blizzard FR Readyset delivers awesome power and free control so you can enjoy dominance over any terrain like only a true belted vehicle can deliver. With a suspension system equipped on all wheels, the Blizzard clears every challenge in its path including rocky obstacles, steep hill climbs and gravel or sand that would trap a machine with normal tires. Twin 370 motors and twin KA-17W ESCs deliver forward, reverse, left/right turning and pivot (turns on the spot) As this belted vehicle is fully pre-assembled there are no difficult assembly steps or other work to complete before enjoying its sophisticated mechanics. In addition, controlling the blade arm with the transmitter adds another fascinating aspect to the Blizzard. For great fun in the sand or snow, the Blizzard can match your outdoor lifestyle and go wherever you want to go.
Pre-installed twin 370 motors and KA-17W ESCs provide free control of movement with independent left/right drive systems controlled by left and right sticks on the transmitter.
Vertical operation of the blade arm is controlled by moving the 3rd channel control stick left or right. A KS4031-06W servo delivers powerful movement to the arm. Suspension travel allows wheels to move up and down so the tracks can roll smoothly over obstacles and uneven surfaces. Sprocket and chain drive system utilizes a moderate number of gear teeth and pitch to realize strong resistance and surefooted driving control. Includes the superior control of the Syncro KT-431S transmitter. 2.4GHz system automatically manages frequency bands. Includes Team Orion 7.2V-1800mA NiMH battery and AC charger. Features high efficiency super plug connector.
Ready set has everything factory completed.
Twin ESC and continuously variable transmission is completed with the twin motors.
Freedom of forward and reverse, left and right movement, and the ultra-pivot turn by the independent left and right transmissions.
The shovel arm is moveable, allowing various actions.
Equipped with suspension on all wheels. .
Band management-free 2.4GHz radio system pre-installed.
< Readyset Contents >
Pre-assembled chassis with control linkages complete
US M1A2 Abrams Air Soft RC Battle Tank- The M1 Abrams main battle tank is the principal combat tank of the United States Army and the United States Marine Corps, with three main versions being deployed starting in 1980: the M1, M1A1, and M1A2. The latest versions of the M1A2 have a new armor and electronics package. It is named after General Creighton Abrams, former Army Chief of Staff and commander of the Army’s 37th Armored Regiment. The M1 Abrams was designed by Chrysler Defense (in 1979, General Dynamics Land Systems Division purchased Chrysler Defense Division) and is currently produced by General Dynamics Corporation in Lima, Ohio, and first entered US Army service in 1980. An improved version of the M1, the M1A1, was introduced in 1985. The M1A1 has the M256 120 mm smoothbore cannon developed by Rheinmetall AG of Germany for the Leopard 2, improved armor, and a CBRN protection system. The M1A2 is a further improvement of the M1A1 with a commander’s thermal viewer and weapon station, position navigation equipment, digital data bus and a radio interface unit. 1/16 US M1A2 Abrams Air Soft RC Battle Tank Smoke & Sound (Upgrade Version w/ Metal Gear & Tracks). This tank can move forward, accelerating speed forward, backward, accelerating speed backward, rotating, barrel can be raised 30 degree. Turret can turn 320 degree. With this New 2.4Ghz Radio System you can have up New 2.4GHz spectrum technology, with the functions of automatic identification and precise code pairing, strong anti-jamming, and allow more than 20 tanks to run at the same time. This is a 1/16 scale fully custom painted and assembled replica of the US M1A2 Abrams Tank with the long gun barrel featuring radio-controlled of all movement including turret rotation and gun elevation. It features full suspension and a main gun that fires BB pellets up to 25 meters! Excellent value for money and a big improvement on the previous version. A great introduction to large scale radio controlled tanks. Maximum side turning angel of turret (left/right) approximately 320-degree Maximum vertical turning angel of gun (up/down) approximately 30-degree Maximum climbing gradient (changeable on different road surfaces) approximately 35-degree Product size: 56 x 23 x 18cm Function: forward high-speed forward, backward, high-speed backward and spin The barrel moves up and down 30. the turret turns 320 emulation music and action effect Full scale R/C function, supper chassis, Realistic suspension system Full scale R/C function simulative motor start-up sound Engine sound, machine-gun sound Cannonball sound Emulation action effect
Full scale R/C function simulative motor start-up sound; (Upgrade Version w/ Metal Gear & Tracks)
Maximum side turning angel of turret (left/right) approximately 320-degree
The barrel moves up and down 30. the turret turns 320 emulation music and action effect
Maximum climbing gradient (changeable on different road surfaces) approximately 35-degree
With the New 2.4Ghz Radio System, you extend the reach, functionality and handling characteristics. Ready To Run Request (6 AA Batteries for the Controller)
Hey everyone I’m back for one final Instructable…or one of the last at least. I have recently gotten into the hobby of RC cars and at first I didn’t know too much about, well basically everything. I have decided to help everyone else out by sharing everything I have learned over the last year. And by the way, I appreciate positive comments since this is still a work in progress.
Step 1: The Brands These are some of the biggest brands to choose from for buying an rc car. I know there are plenty more but these seem to be the most popular.
Traxxas cars are very fast, durable, and high quality. If you buy one of these, you will very rarely need to replace broken or worn parts. However, these cars and trucks start at about $300 and do not always include a battery pack and charger. To buy visit www.traxxas.com
Out of all of these, Exceed cars are the cheapest, but they often require spare parts and a rather high level of maitenence. I own an exceed, so I can personally tell you to only get an exceed if you do not want to spend a lot of money and you are willing to pay $10 for shipping every time a few pieces break. The cars start at $90 and are most of the parts are good quality. To buy visitwww.nitrorcx.com
HPI cars are not all that popular, mostly because they are as expensive as Traxxas but not as good quality. There is not much I can say about them other than from what I’ve read they have good quality parts and will not need many replacements. To buy visit www.nitrorcx.com or www.hpiracing.com
Tamiya is the classic RC car brand. They’ve been making good cars for more than 30 years. I own the Grasshopper from about 1984 or something but its actually really nice. I have never broken a part on it and I’ve been driving it offroad for a year now. They start around $200 but are reasonably slower than other brands for that price due to the classical “Low-Tech” designs. To buy visit www.tamiya.com
Step 2: The Car Types There are about 5 car types. I am not going to explain too much about each since they seem rather straightforward.
These are your average street cars. They are the fastest and the best on paved, flat surfaces. Do not get this if you are looking to drive in your backyard or want something with more power.
Drift cars are like on-road cars but with slick tires. YOu can slide around turns and still get almost as fast as an on-road car. They are good if regular cars bore you but you like to drive fast. Drifting is hard, however, so be warned.
Buggies are a cross between offroad and onroad cars. They are the second fastest on road but the slowest offroad usually due to their low wheelbase. Buggies are good for those who cant decide what type of car they want, since they can use it for both.
Truggies are also a crossover like buggies, but they are more for the offroad. It basically takes the frame of a Buggy and puts monster truck tires on it. These are the 3rd fastest on road and the 2nd slowest off.
Trucks are your monster trucks. They are amazing offroad but very slow onroad. They may flip a lot when trying to make high speed turns so these are not the best for on road and you should get these if you want to drive in the woods or in the grass the most.
Step 3: Electric or Nitro Now that you know the brands and types of rc cars its time to decide if you want to go with electric or nitro. Here are some of the advantages and disadvantages of each.
Better for at-home use
Cars have faster acceleration in general
Limited run times
need to wait hours to recharge batteries
Brushless motors are expensive
Longer run times
Need to buy gas
Smells bad (my opinion)
a little more expensive to buy the car
cars are more complex (more can go wrong)
Step 4: Electric Motors and ESC There are two different types of rc motors. Brushed and Brushless. Each motor type has its own kind of ESC (Electronic Speed Controller). Without an esc, your motor would just do nothing or go full throttle when you wanted to drive. Brushed motors are cheap but very ineffecient and lact power. The ESC’s are also cheaper. Brushless motors are efficient, powerful, fast, and last much longer. Brushless motors and ESC’s do not really have an expiration date, while brushed usually last about 6 months to a year. The main visual difference between the two is the brushless is sealed completely and has three wires, while the brushed has ventilation holes and two wires.
Step 5: Brushless upgrades MOTOR RATING
brushless motors are labeled with two things, a large number followed by “kv” and a smaller number followed by “t”. Basically, you need to check the ESC for that motor and read up a little. It will tell u what numbers followed by “t” will be good for your use. So if you want it offroad you will want more “t”, but you will get less “kv”. On-road is the opposite.
KV stands for the amount of rotations per minute per volt. So if this basically means the bigger the number, the faster your car will go. Just make sure if you want your car to drive good offroad you get a motor with the correct “t”.
For example, my brushless motor was a 6000kv 5.5t brushless combo. I checked the ESC and it said you need greater than or equal to 5.5t for on road and greater than or equal to 8.5t for offroad. I got an on-road motor so i could go fast (about 45mph). If you wanted to go offroad you could buy the 4000kv 8.5t motor, which goes about 35mph but has more power. If you do not understand something here pm me. I will be glad to help.
Step 6: Electric Car Layout This is the basic layout for exceed 1/10th scale rc cars and trucks. It has all the parts of other brands but the other brands have things in different places..
Step 7: LiPo or Ni-Mh Most of the time when you buy a car they come with a battery, but some may not. If that happens, you may be faced with this choice, LiPo or Ni-Mh. LiPo battery packs are the batteries of the future and if given the chance, make the investment. For $10 more you can get a battery pack which will give not only longer run times but also more power. They also do not lose their charge over time. Ni-Mh batteries are cheaper and “safer” (LiPo batteries CAN explode if improperly charged) but in the long run they are not worth it. Spend a few extra dollars and save a lot in the long run.
LiPo batteries are rated by two numbers, and Ni-Mh are rated with only one
the mAh of the battery packs is the capacity of the batteries. The larger the better.
Only LiPo’s are rated with “c” which is basically how fast they can deliver the power. Most battery packs are between 20-30c but you can find some that are 5000mAh 50c battery packs (those are VERY expensive; ~$50) or even an 8000mAh 50c battery pack (around $100) but BE CAREFUL!! Make sure you but a battery pack that will fit in your car!! Some battery packs are larger!
Step 8: How to pick the right car. Okay if you are buying an rc car this is how you should pick it out
pick an answer and go to the # in parenthesis. If there is a hyperlink in parenthesis click it and that is the car or cars that fit you best. (Note. I am including 1/10th rc cars only. These are the “Standard” size but feel free to either go smaller (1/16) or larger (up to 1/5)
1. I want to have a family friendly car that i can drive immediatly when i want to (2)
I want a car that is a little faster but dont mind taking more time to prep and costs more (11)
2. I want a durable car and am willing to spend more money (3)
I want a cheap car that may break in the future (7)
3. I want an offroad car (4)
I want an onroad car (6)
I want something inbetween (5)
11. If you want a nitro car you’re on your own. sorry.
Look I know there are pleanty more choices for each section but I just wanted to give everyone an idea about what the car they want may look like and so on. There are more cars you can buy then I listed so please understand that.
You’re all done. Now go research the the cars that match your style and find out which one to buy. It is smart to research simmilar cars also. Just keep in mind what you will want for the future. I made this mistake and now I have to pay a lot more money to maintain my car.
Step 9: Recommended Accessories and final tips. I would definintely recommend buying a complete extra set of tires for your car and some CA glue the day and minute you buy your rc car. The tires wear very quick so be prepared. I highly recommend making an investment when you buy your car and get a good quality one. I promise you it will pay off in the long run. I know from experience and I believe that over about a 2-3 year period, the amound of money spent on most cars and spare parts, no matter what the quality, will be about the same. Dont be a cheapskate…unless you are under 18. If you are not sure on the car you want to get there are pleanty of forums out there about the specific car you may want. Please just research before you purchase, I don’t want anyone crying to me because I said they shoud get this car and they hate it.
Nine Easy Go-FastMods- It’s no question – the sensation of speed is one of the most popular aspects of radio control. Racers and bashers may differ in many ways when it comes to how they enjoy their favorite hobby, but they both share their desire for faster acceleration and higher velocity. From cleaning and oiling bearings to installing more horsepower, there are many ways to make your car faster – some without spending any money!
http:/ I dug deep into the RCCA archives for this gem – nine easy go fast mods. Enjoy the read, then start wrenching – after all, you’ve got races to win…even if they’re just down the street.
MAXIMUM VELOCITY MINIMUM EFFORT
Words: Kevin Hetmanski
Who doesn’t like to go fast? Nobody. Who wants to go faster? Everybody! Without spending a lot of time or dough, following these 8 tips will help you add a few more miles per hour and a little more distance between you and the second-fastest guy on the block. Think of them as “speed reading.”
POP THE CARB RESTRICTER
SPEED INCREASE ª 2MPH
Most nitro cars come with unrestricted carbs, but if your carb has a restricter (such as on this Associated GT2 RTR), you can gain a few mph by popping it out. When we tested the GT2 RTR, removing the restricter added 2.7mph and made the throttle punchier, which is great on pavement and other high-grip surfaces but can cause spin outs in low-grip dirt. So, if you pop the restricter, keep it in your toolbox; you may want to put it back in!
USE A 7-CELL OR LIPO PACK
Upgrading to LiPo power will save more than 3 ounces of weight and increase voltage for a significant speed boost.
SPEED INCREASE ª5 TO 10MPH
Boosting voltage is an easy, no-mod way to increase the speed of any electric car, provided your speed control can handle the extra juice. If you switch from a 6-cell pack to a 7-cell, you’ll increase voltage from 7.2 to 8.4 volts and have a significant increase in off-the-line punch and top speed. You can get a similar benefit (along with reduced weight and increased run time) by switching to LiPo power. A 2-cell LiPo pack delivers 7.4 volts; that doesn’t seem like a big voltage gain, but it does make a very noticeable difference in performance because the pack is also 3.5 ounces (give or take) lighter than a sub-C pack.
RUN FUEL WITH A HIGHER NITRO PERCENTAGE
SPEED INCREASE ª2 TO 5MPH
More nitro means a bigger boom with each combustion cycle, and that means more speed (or at least you’ll have the power you need to spin a taller gear ratio, and that will mean more speed). For maximum engine life, we suggest that you run 20-percent nitro for regular running, but when it’s time to crush the other guys in the neighborhood, reach for a jug of 30 percent. But be warned, the engine will run hotter.
INSTALL A HOTTER MOTOR
SPEED INCREASE ªUP TO 15MPH
Swapping a Neon’s 4-banger for a big-cube V-8 would be a herculean task in the full-size hot-rodding world, but similar performance gains are as simple as removing two screws on an electric RC car. Most RTRs include an anemic 540 motor that’s good for about 18mph; install a modified motor, and you can easily double that speed; the lower the number of winds, the faster the motor. One caveat: the faster the motor, the greater the strain it will put on your car’s speed control, hence the “motor limit” rating for most speed controls. Check your speed control’s manual, and stick with a motor that has the same number or more winds than the limit.
INSTALL BALL BEARINGS
SPEED INCREASE ªUP TO 2MPH
Fresh bushings can actually outperform grease-packed ball bearings, but bushings quickly degrade and that costs speed. For maximum velocity, metal-shielded (not rubber-sealed) bearings are best. Most cars already have ball-bearing transmissions, so all you have to do is pop bearings into the hubs. The speed increase won’t be dramatic and will depend on the state of your car’s drivetrain before the install, but you’ll get more than speed: bearings greatly outlast bushings and take the slop out of rotating parts.
SWAP MONSTER TREADS FOR STREET TIRES
SPEED INCREASE ª2 TO 5MPH
Gnarly monster treads are fine for the dirt and grass, but their excessive weight and rolling resistance robs you of speed on pavement. If you trade those treads in for street rubber, your truck will need less power to overcome that weight and rolling resistance, leaving more power for pure speed once you’re geared to take advantage of that power and to compensate for what will likely be smaller-diameter tires.
TUNE THE ENGINE
SPEED INCREASE ªUP TO 10MPH
The only thing more amazing than the amount of power a little nitro RC engine can make is how much less power it makes if the needle settings are just a little off. We’ve seen guys give up half their engine performance to bad tuning, typically by running the engine too rich. Lean the high end out by turning it clockwise 1/12 turn (think of it as 5 minutes on the face of a clock), and make a few passes to see if your engine reaches higher rpm (and thus, higher speed). When the engine stutters at full throttle or starts running closer to 300 degrees, it’s too lean; aback it off until the engine sings a clear high note at full throttle with a faint smoke trail from the pipe.
CUT THE FAT
SPEED INCREASE ª1 TO 3MPH
If you can trim weight from your ride, it won’t need as much power to get up to speed, and that means it can go even faster. Exactly how much weight you can lop off depends on the type of vehicle you have. A burly monster truck with 8 shocks, heavy tires, a reverse-gear servo and other not-essential-for-speed parts can be lightened significantly by removing the superfluous parts, but a racing-style buggy, stadium truck, or touring car might only have a few grams to offer (don’t bother).
When looking for weight savings, go to the wheels and tires first. The old racers’ adage “a pound of rotating weight is like 2 pounds of non-rotating weight” is very true, especially if you have a monster truck with heavy chevron tires!
GEARING THE REAL SECRET OF SPEED
All of the tips outlined in this article can increase speed, but to really take advantage of them, proper gearing is essential. Otherwise, you’ll probably see quicker acceleration but little or no increase in top speed, which isn’t necessarily a bad thing, as acceleration wins more races than sheer speed. But when absolute speed is the goal, it’s all about gearing. To understand why, think of your car as a bicycle, and its engine as your legs.
THINK PEDAL POWER
Put your bike in first (the easiest) gear, and you can easily pedal to your maximum rpm. You probably aren’t going very fast, but you can really spin the pedals. A lighter bike, more aerodynamic position, or reduced rolling resistance won’t help you go any faster, since your legs are already going as fast as they can. So you up shift the bike to a taller gear ratio, and you go faster, and you keep up shifting and going faster until the gear ratio is too tall for the strength of your legs to overcome. The same thing is going on in your RC car. Unless your modification increases the motor’s or engine’s rpm, your car won’t go faster. But if you make it more powerful (or free up more power by diverting less to fighting inertia and rolling resistance), your powerplant will be able to turn a taller gear ratio for more speed just like an Olympic cyclist is able to go faster because he has stronger legs to turn a bigger gear on his bicycle.
PUTTING IT TO WORK IN RC
There are two ways to gear up an RC car for more speed: install a pinion or clutch bell with more teeth or a spur gear with fewer teeth. This will make your car roll farther with each turn of the engine’s crank or the motor’s output shaft and thus increase speed. Try going up two teeth maximum on the clutch bell, or up to four teeth on the pinion gear. Don’t overdo it; if you gear the car too high, you’ll strain the powerplant, and you may actually go slower. Check your manual for suggested gear ratio ranges. Credits: Aaron Waldronhttp://http://Remote Control Toys on Sale
On an electric car, there are 2 Gears on your car that you need to worry about changing: the Spur Gear and the Pinion Gear. The Pinion Gear is the one attached to the motor, the Spur Gear being the gear the pinion comes in contact with. On a Nitro vehicle, you might have 4 gears…2 for the 2-speed on the motor and 2 for the 2-speed on the ‘drive train’.
Changing the Pinion or Spur Gears will result in much different results.
On the Pinion Gear, the higher the number of teeth, the faster (top end) your car will have, but you will lose acceleration. The lower the number of teeth, the faster your car will accelerate, but you will lose top end. More top end usually results in less run time, also.
On the Spur Gear, the higher the number of teeth, the more acceleration the car will have, but the less top end. The lower the number of teeth the more top end you will have, but you will lose acceleration.
Changing the Gearing
On an electric car, the Pinion is changed by loosening the screws to the motor (or, in some cases, removing it from the car) and then removing the Pinion. Slide the new Pinion on, re-install in car (if applicable), and adjust the Gear mesh.
To change the Spur requires a little more work. Depending on the vehicle you own, it could be as easy as removing 2 screws or disassembling a whole portion of the car. See your instruction manual for the procedure as it applies to your vehicle.
On a Nitro vehicle, changing the Pinion gears requires the removal of the motor from the car (in most cases). You will then need to remove the gears from the clutch bell and replace with the appropriate gears.
Changing the Spur Gears on a Nitro vehicle requires the disassembly of a portion of the car (in most cases) to remove the gears and replace with the appropriate ones. See your instruction manual for the procedure as it applies to your vehicle.
On a beautiful warm sunny day, spending time with your family and friends, what better way to fulfill that enjoyment than with a remote controlled boat & pickup truck at the lake. You’ll have hours of delight plus memories to cherish for a lifetime. http://http://http://http://
Electronic Speed control (ESC) systems for brushed motors are often very different by design. This explains the fact that brushed ESCs aren’t compatible with brushless motors. Brushless speed control systems are basically for driving tri-phase brushless motors. It does this by sending a series of signals for rotation. The correct phase often varies with rotation of the motor. This rotation is take into account by ESC. The controller generates the signal depending on the back EMF signal it receives from the motor. The EMF signal guides the controller on the position of the rotor and what fets to switch on.
Brushless motors, also known as inrunners or outrunners, have become very common with radio-controlled airplane hobbyists because of their high level of efficiency, longevity, power and light weight compared to traditional brushed motors. Brushless motor controllers are however much more complex than their brushed counterparts.
Various RC vehicles run on different power sources. Among these, RC cars or boats that run on electricity are the easiest to operate. With electric remote control cars or boats, there is no need for sophisticated technical knowledge or the need for glow plugs or fuel.
The only requirements are to charge the batteries and to ensure correct wiring. That’s pretty much it!
Rechargeable battery packs for RC vehicles can be typically either one of the following: NiCd, NiMH, or Li-Po cells. Following are more information on RC batteries.