Mighty belt-tracked vehicle powers over sand, dirt and snow!
User-friendly Readyset with 2.4GHz R/C system also provides blade arm control!
Powered by two independent side-by-side motors, the transmission in the Blizzard FR Readyset delivers awesome power and free control so you can enjoy dominance over any terrain like only a true belted vehicle can deliver. With a suspension system equipped on all wheels, the Blizzard clears every challenge in its path including rocky obstacles, steep hill climbs and gravel or sand that would trap a machine with normal tires. Twin 370 motors and twin KA-17W ESCs deliver forward, reverse, left/right turning and pivot (turns on the spot) As this belted vehicle is fully pre-assembled there are no difficult assembly steps or other work to complete before enjoying its sophisticated mechanics. In addition, controlling the blade arm with the transmitter adds another fascinating aspect to the Blizzard. For great fun in the sand or snow, the Blizzard can match your outdoor lifestyle and go wherever you want to go.
Pre-installed twin 370 motors and KA-17W ESCs provide free control of movement with independent left/right drive systems controlled by left and right sticks on the transmitter.
Vertical operation of the blade arm is controlled by moving the 3rd channel control stick left or right. A KS4031-06W servo delivers powerful movement to the arm. Suspension travel allows wheels to move up and down so the tracks can roll smoothly over obstacles and uneven surfaces. Sprocket and chain drive system utilizes a moderate number of gear teeth and pitch to realize strong resistance and surefooted driving control. Includes the superior control of the Syncro KT-431S transmitter. 2.4GHz system automatically manages frequency bands. Includes Team Orion 7.2V-1800mA NiMH battery and AC charger. Features high efficiency super plug connector.
Ready set has everything factory completed.
Twin ESC and continuously variable transmission is completed with the twin motors.
Freedom of forward and reverse, left and right movement, and the ultra-pivot turn by the independent left and right transmissions.
The shovel arm is moveable, allowing various actions.
Equipped with suspension on all wheels. .
Band management-free 2.4GHz radio system pre-installed.
< Readyset Contents >
Pre-assembled chassis with control linkages complete
SCX10 II™ 2000 Jeep® Cherokee 1/10th Scale Electric 4WD 2005 marked the birth of the Axial brand, and shortly after, thoughts about the first SCX10 began, with development wrapping up in 2008. The SCX10 was introduced to the world as a builders kit, paving the way, or better yet, raising the bar for a new generation of scale trail enthusiasts. Previously, hobbyists had to “scratch build” a rig which presented a lot of technical hurdles to overcome. The SCX10 kit gave these “artists” time to focus their attention on other things like personalization and visual customization by removing the issues scratch-built scale rigs presented. And, it wasn’t just as a great kit to build, it was also a very capable driving machine, making it the de facto scale rig the world over. The SCX10 chassis platform provided all the technical attributes as well as scale looks with its signature all-metal twin c-channel frame, solid performing transmission and axles that provided enough realism with capabilities to match. With the SCX10 II, we’ve kept essence of the SCX10 there with all-metal twin c-channel frame rails, but that’s only 2% of the 98% of a completely new design. Scale AR44 high pinion axles, a chassis mounted servo (CMS), re-designed transmission, front mounted battery tray, all aluminum suspension links, and a properly designed suspension for nearly zero bump steer. These are just a few of the features built into the all new SCX10 II.
The original AX10 axle was developed in 2007 for Axial’s first kit, the AX90001 Axial AX10 Scorpion RC Comp 10 – 1/10th Scale Rock Crawler – Electric Kit. In 2008, the AX10 axle was used in the SCX10 chassis, which paved the way for the scale trail scene.
While developing the next iteration of axles such as the AR60, we started thinking about what kind of axle would be more suited for the future of the SCX10. Our design of a new axle needed to feature three key points. First, we wanted the axle housing to visually quench the thirst of scale enthusiasts. Second, we needed to create a gear set with the technical attributes to overcome the torque twist that is often associated with smaller gear sets. Third, the axle itself needed to be durable.
After seven years of utilizing the original AX10 axle and two years of development, Axial is proud to introduce the industry’s first high pinion gear set in our newly developed AR44 axle! The next chapter of the Axial SCX10 begins with true technological engineering and scale realism!
AR44 HI-PINION AXLES
In 2008, the AX10™ axle was used in the launch of the SCX10™ chassis platform. While developing the next iteration of axles such as the AR60, the thought process began on what kind of axle would be best for the future of the SCX10™. Axial’s development of a new axle needed to feature three key design points. First, an axle housing to visually quench the thirst of scale enthusiasts. Second, a gear set with the technical attributes to overcome the torque twist often associated with smaller gear sets. Third, the axle itself needed to retain the durability associated with the SCX10™, despite being delivered in a smaller axle housing. After seven years of utilizing the original AX10™ axle and two years of development, Axial is proud to introduce our newly developed AR44 axle with the industry’s first high pinion gear set. The next chapter of the Axial SCX10™ begins with scale realism backed with true technological development!
• 8 degree kingpin angle • Improved scrub radius over the AX10 axleAR44 UNIVERSAL AXLE SET
Universal joint axles allow up to 45 degrees of steering and provide smoother action for a higher performing, efficient drivetrain.
• Up to 45 degrees of steering
• Smooth action for an efficient drivetrain
• Compact yet durable design
• Hardened steel construction SCX10 II™ TRANSMISSION
Scale looks on the outside, genuine Axial gears on the inside! The SCX10™ transmission received a design makeover with special attention paid towards aesthetics by mimicking a real transmission with a bell housing, oil pan and a 4X4 transfer case! And that’s just the beginning. By sitting the transfer case lower into the chassis and centering the driveshafts with the axle input housings, Axial has created a more efficient driveline with better driveshaft angles which puts less stress on moving parts. Better driveshaft angles coupled with hi-pinion axles IS scale realism backed with performance. Also includes full set of ball bearings and all metal internal gears for strength and durability.
• Transfer case design helps keep the driveshafts centered and as low as possible in the chassis
• Final drive ratio range 33.69 – 54.15 with available spur – pinion gear combinations
• Comes with 56T spur gear and 15T pinion / 32-pitch for durability
• All metal internal gears for strength and durability
• Final drive ratio (FDR) 40.44 with a range from 33.69 – 54.15 – Original SCX10 was 33.06
• Scale looks mimics a full size transmission and transfer case CHASSIS MOUNTED SERVO (CMS)
Scale matters, but so does geometry! In pursuit of scale looks, we’ve moved the servo off the top of the axle and onto the chassis, just as a full size truck has its steering box located on the frame. But with this seemingly simple action comes a complexity of suspension hurdles to overcome – one of which is bump steer. The undesirable steering is caused by bumps interacting with improper length or angle of suspension and steering links. We made it our mission to design the front suspension in such a way that it eliminates or comes as close as possible to zero bump steer, to help give you the best driving experience possible.
• Scale looks with proper suspension geometry
• Anodized aluminum links included w/ M4 rod ends
• Adjustable servo mounting system allows for a wide range of servos to be used
• Properly designed suspension for nearly zero bump steer ALL ALUMINUM SUSPENSION LINKS
The suspension geometry utilizes a 4-Link design for the rear which is optimized to reduce axle steer and torque twist. It also helps with steep off-camber climbs by having the proper amount of anti-squat and roll characteristics. The 4-Link system also aids against suspension wrap-up in high power applications.
• Wheelbase adjustment is easily done in the rear end without affecting the steering geometry and maintaining zero bump steer. • Adjustable wheelbase (11.4”/ 12.0” / 12.3”) (optional link kits sold separately) • 4 link rear • 12.3” wheelbase
STEEL C-CHANNEL FRAME RAIL CHASSIS
The realistic high strength c-channel chassis frame is made of durable steel with cross bracing for reinforcement and is held together with all hex hardware. Realistic looking frame and cross braces improve chassis rigidity (torsional stiffness). Realistic shock hoops with multiple shock mounting positions allows you to adjust your suspension for maximum performance. The simplified design makes maintenance and assembly quick and easy. The contoured skid plate significantly reduces hang-ups on terrain. Compared to the previous design, additional holes have been added to the rear portion of the frame rails for making wheelbase adjustments. JCR OFFROAD VANGUARD BUMPERS
Scale front and rear bumpers licensed by JCR Offroad.
• Rear mount has been extended and stiffer plastics chosen to help limit the typical sag seen in plastic bumpers
• Lenses included for light locations on bumpers
• Rear tow hitch included for added scale appearance ADJUSTABLE BATTERY TRAY
The new adjustable battery tray is now relocated lower and further forward for better weight distribution and center of gravity (COG).
• Adjustable tray that prevents the battery from coming loose or shifting while driving
• Posts are included to fine tune the fit based on the battery you choose
• Easy access for quicker battery changes
• Can accommodate batteries up to 32x44x147mm (3S 5,000 mAh) 1.9 BFGOODRICH ALL-TERRAIN T/A® KO2 TIRES – R35
What lies between the dirt and metal are the tires – your connection to the trail below. When it comes to tough terrain, adventure seekers reach for BFGoodrich All-Terrain T/A® KO2 tires for their dependability on the roughest backroads.
• Officially licensed by BFGoodrich
• 4.65” x 1.65” / 1.9 (118mm x 42.5mm)
• R35 compound
BFGoodrich® Tires and All-Terrain T/A® KO2 Trademarks are used under License from Michelin 1.9 METHOD MESH WHEELS
In an industry that’s all about the latest and greatest, while taking advantage of styling trends, sometimes the ‘less is more’ approach is quite refreshing and the mesh wheel offers just that. Clean, simple and METHOD STRONG! These officially licensed METHOD Mesh Wheels are replicated in true form for durability and a clean line look. ICON ALUMINUM SHOCKS
Fully licensed Icon Vehicle Dynamics™ shocks feature clear coated polished aluminum bodies, complete with aluminum faux reservoirs. The main body of the shock is threaded for quick ride height adjustments and pre-load tuning ability. Like their full size counterparts these shocks are completely rebuildable, tunable and offer consistent handling all while adding some of that Icon bling to your SCX10™ chassis.
• 61-90mm Aluminum Shock Set with 7mm piston WATERPROOF RECEIVER BOX / ESC TRAY
Three different silicone seals are included, one for the antenna, one for the servo wires (includes three slots for three channels), and one that acts as a gasket for the receiver box cover. No more stress when running in mud, water, or snow!
• Waterproof receiver box located on the side plates allows easy access and low center of gravity
• Clean mounting surface for your ESC is large enough to accommodate up to 50x40mm footprint WIRE ROUTING
Wire routing has been thoroughly thought through to help keep your chassis layout looking clean. In addition to including wire clips/guides, there has been a channel created that runs the length of the chassis so you can run additional wires hidden inside the c-channel frame.
• Optional mounting points and wire routing for a chassis mounted servo winch and 2 speed shift servo WB8 HD WILDBOAR™ DRIVESHAFTS
WB8 HD Wildboar™ front and rear driveshafts feature an updated design with a larger diameter cross pin (2x11mm) along with an M4 Screw Shaft (2mm hex drive) for added strength. A center splined slider floats between each end and features added material which reduces flex and fatigue.
• 3-piece driveshaft with strengthened slider-floater tube
• Increased surface at the connection between the ball joints and output shaft tubes
• 2x11mm cross pin adds 25% more surface area providing more strength for the ball joint
• Captured cross pin design eliminates older set screw design for more durability/easy maintenance
• Adjustable length driveline parts included in box DUAL SLIPPER CLUTCH
Our dual slipper design uses a pad on each side of the spur gear for added surface area. This allows for more precise tuning and holding power. The spur gear features strong, 32 pitch gearing for high torque applications.
• Slipper design uses a pad on each side of the spur gear for added surface contact area
• More precise tuning and holding power
• Strong 32P gear pitch for high torque applications JEEP® XJ BODY
Throughout the rich history surrounding the Jeep® brand, there have been several influential vehicles hailing from the seven-slot stable, one of which is the Jeep® Cherokee (XJ). Possibly considered as the dawn of the modern SUV, the XJ was first presented 1984 as one of the first small SUV’s introduced into the American market, which carried on until 2001. During its 17yr production run, the XJ was built on several continents for world wide exposure, offered in either a 2-door or 4-door configuration, available in several different trim levels along with either a 2wd or 4wd drivetrain. Under the hood featured three different engine options consisting of 2.5L I4 AMC (125hp @ 5400rpm and 150lb/ft of torque @ 3250rpm), 4.0L I6 OHC AMC (193hp@4600rpm and 231lb/ft of torque @ 3000rpm), and a Euro spec only turbo diesel I4 OHV (114hp@3900rpm and 221 lb/ft @ 2000rpm). In 97’, the XJ received a facelift that updated design queues focused on aerodynamics, body stiffness, styling as well as the spare tire being relocated from the rear bumper to inside the cab. The stiffer uni-body construction brought forth improvements in noise cancellation and vibrations while aerodynamics improved engine efficiency.
From an off-roading perspective, the XJ has proven to be a relatively inexpensive vehicle for purchase thus making it a value based build option, capable of suiting just about any sort of budget. Its bones are strong thanks to a Quadra-Link suspension system and primarily coming with Dana 35 axles since the beginning, but there was a Dana 44 option between 87’-91’. Don’t let its smaller size fool you, there’s room for four passengers and space for days, making it a great expedition rig for friends and family to tag along. Credits: http://www.axialracing.com/
The Tiger tank was possibly the most famous tank of World War 2
The German Tiger Tank was introduced in August 1942 and was at that time the most powerful tank in the world. The success of the Tiger was so profound, that no allied tank dared to engage it in open combat. This psychological fear soon became to be known as “Tigerphobia”.
A battalion of Tiger tanks being transported by rail. Their combat tracks can be seen rolled up in front.
Tigers of sPzAbt.505 taking up positions shortly before commencement of Operation Zitadelle.
Germany was late to join in the race for the development of heavy tanks. By the time of Operation Barbarossa (invasion of Russia), the Russians had possessed the best tanks of its time, both superior in quality and quantity. The Red Army was the only one in the world equipped with heavy tanks (KV-1) and the superior medium tanks (T-34).
Many had noted that the Tiger was conceived after the Germans encountered the Russian T-34 during the campaign on the east . This is not entirely accurate as the planning had already begun at a meeting with Hitler on 26th May, 1941. It was not until June 22nd, 1941 that Operation Barbarossa was launched. However, Hitler’s interest in the project peaked after the Germans encountered the T-34 medium tank which had practically rendered the entire German panzer forces obsolete. This caused the development of the new heavy tank to progress at a feverish rate. Germany wasted no time in catching up in the gun-armor race and was soon to have developed some of the best armored fighting vehicles of world war 2.
Going back further, German heavy tank development can be traced back to 1937 with the German Armaments Ministry issuing a specification for a new heavy tank to Daimler-Benz, Henschel, MAN and Porsche. This project however was ignored as the current Panzer III and IV had so far proved effective tanks and served well in combat. It was not until spring 1941 that the project was revived after Hitler was impressed with heavy allied tanks, such as the French Char B1 and British Matilda 1 during the campaign in the west.
On May 26th May1941, during a Germans armament meeting, Hitler ordered for the creation of heavy Panzers which were to have an increased effectiveness to penetrate enemy tanks; possess heavier armor than was previously achieved; and attain a maximum speed of at least 40km/h. Another condition was the prototype had to be completed and presented to Hitler in time for his birthday on April 20, 1942. These key decisions led to the development of a new heavy tank, the Tiger 1. This project was known as the “Tiger program”.
Two firms were contracted for the design of the new tank, Porsche of Stuttgart and Henschel and Sohn of Kassel. It’s an interesting note that Porsche is the same firm that today produces the famed Porsche sports car. Both Porsche and Henschel were responsible only for the chassis and automotive design. Turret and main weapon design was awarded to yet another firm, Krupp of Essen.
The first consideration for the Tiger 1 was the selection of a more powerful main gun. The invasion of Russia had shown that the current armament on German tanks were incapable of defeating Russian tanks except at very close ranges. The only effective weapon the German army possessed at that time against the Russian T-34 and KV-2s was the 88mm antiaircraft gun. The 88mm was a versatile weapon capable of serving many roles from anti-aircraft to anti-tank and artillery. By this time, the 88mm had already proven itself as a formidable tank killer, highly accurate and capable of taking out enemy tanks at extreme ranges. Its rise to fame was especially noted in the hands of the Afrika Korps, under the command of Rommel during the African campaign. In fact, during that time, the 88mm was the only weapon the German army possessed that could effectively deal with Russian tanks.
The 88mm was a cumbersome weapon, needing to be towed and deployed in order to be readied for action. As it was, the Tiger 1 was the first tank to mount the 88mm gun in a fully traversable turret. Krupp designed the turret to mount the KwK 36 L/56 88mm anti-tank gun. The designation KwK 36 and L/56 simply implied the model number year 36 and the barrel length of 56 calibers. Depending on the type of ammunition used, the Tiger’s 88mm has a muzzle velocity of 930m per second and could penetrate up to 110mm of armor at a distance of 2000 meters. For comparison’s sake, the T-34’s armor was 90mm at its thickest and this was only on the late T-34 models which possessed armor upgrades. Since the flight time of an armor piercing round at a range of 2000m is about 2.1 seconds, accuracy and correction of fire against moving targets is more important than with older anti tank guns. This made it ideally suited to open terrain where it could engage enemy tanks at long range before the opponent’s weapons were even in range.
The 88mm Fliegerabwehrkanonen (FLAK) proved very deadly to allied planes and tanks.
Inside view of the 88mm Kwk36 L/56 in a Tiger H1 (E).
For the chassis, Henschel and Porsche had produced their own designs. Porsche was more advanced than Henschel as they had independently embarked on a new heavy tank project beginning in the autumn of 1940, even before the official order was given for a new heavy tank. Porsche designed a totally new chassis codenamed VK4501 (P). The codename VK was for Volkettenfahrzeuge or “fully tracked experimental vehicle”, 45 means a 45 ton class and 01 represents the first model. The new VK4501 (P) chassis had 100mm of frontal armor, 80mm side and rear armor, 25mm top armor and 20mm bottom armor. It utilized an advanced power drive train system which used both a combination of petrol and electric to power the tracks. The engine was a two 10 cylinder, 15 litre, air-cooled Porsche Typ 101/1 delivering 320hp at 2400 rpm. These engines did not power the tank’s drive train directly. Instead it was linked to an electric generator which then supplied electricity to two electric motors. These electric motors would then power the drive train.
This concept of an electrically powered tank would have greatly conserved fuel and while technologically advanced, was too new and untested and very prone to breakdowns. Furthermore the electrical system used copper, a vital resource Germany was in short supply of. Weighing in at full combat weight of 59 tons, it could achieve a top speed of 35km/h. Designated Tiger (P) or Tiger P1, the Porsche Tiger had its turret mounted ahead in the front section of the hull.
On September 1941, an order was placed for 100 turrets and hulls for the VK4501 (P). On April 1942, the first prototype of Tiger (P) was completed, in time for a demonstration on Hitler’s birthday. However Tiger (P) encountered serious complications and manufacturing had been suspended many times. On October 1942, the Tiger commission met to evaluate which of the Tiger (P) or Tiger (H) would be selected for mass production.
Porsche Tiger (P) had its turret mounted upfront.
Porsche Tiger (P)s were converted to Ferdinand Panzerjager Tank Destroyer.
Henschel was working on a VK3601 (H) project when the order was received for new heavy tank design on May 1941. The VK3601 (H) was designed to carry the 75mm KwK 42 L/70 tapered bore gun and before the new order was given, Henschel did not intend to mount the 88mm gun. On September 1941, it was then decided that it is not possible to mount an 88mm gun on the VK3601 (H) chassis. Furthermore, Hitler had ordered that the Krupp designed turret for Porsche’s VK4501 (P) chassis with the 88mm KwK L/56 was to be fitted to Henschel’s Tiger. These restrictions left Henschel with no other option but to design a new VK4501 (H) chassis.
Known as Tiger (H), Henschel utilized as much already available components from previous heavy panzer designs. The VK4501 (H) was created by redesigning the hull of the VK3601 chassis. The chassis had 100mm frontal armor, 80mm side superstructure, 60mm side hull, 80mm rear armor and 25mm top and bottom armor. The turret was originally designed by Krupp for Tiger (P), but was modified and used by Tiger (H). For the engine, it utilized a 12 cylinder Maybach HL 210 P45, delivering 650horsepower at 3000rpm. The transmission was an 8 speed Maybach Olvar 40 12 16 designed to provide a maximum speed of 45km/h. As was usual with German tanks during that time, it was equipped with a ball mounted machine gun fitted on the front right side of the hull. Weighing in at full combat weight of 57 tons, Tiger (H) could carry up to 92 rounds of main gun ammunition and up to 5700 rounds of 7.92mm MG34 rounds.
The first prototype of Tiger (H) was completed on April 1942, in time for a demonstration on Hitler’s birthday. The first Tiger (H) known as Versuchsserie Tiger Nr. V1 was fitted with a new feature called the Vorpanzer, which was a frontal shield which could be lowered to protect the tracks and drive sprocket. This feature was quickly discontinued and having been fitted only on the first Tiger (H).
By July 1942, both Tiger (P) and Tiger (H) were being tested at the firing grounds at Berka, Germany. The Tiger (H) proved superior and was approved for mass production. The production for Tiger (P) was discontinued. Of the original 100 Tiger (P) ordered, only 10 had been assembled by October 1942 (chassis Nr 150001 through 150010). The remaining 90 turrets were converted for mounting with Tiger (H). 90 hulls were converted to the Ferdinand Panzer-Jager (tank destroyer), named after its designer Dr. Ferdinand Porsche. This Panzer-Jager was later renamed to Elephant. Of the 10 assembled Tiger (P), three were converted to Bergefahrzeuge (recovery vehicles), another three were converted to Raumpanzer Tiger (debris clearance vehicle) and the last four were retained for further testing (Nr 150004, 150005, 150013 and 150014). Only one (Nr 150013) saw action as a command tank on the Eastern front.
Officially designated Panzerkampfwagen VI Sd.Kfz 181, Tiger Ausf. E, the Tiger tank was the first tank to use animal names by the German army (such as Panther, Tiger, Elephant) as a propaganda tool to draw attention. Production started in July 1942 with the first Tigers delivered in August 1942. There is only one official production version for the Tiger 1, although several modifications had been made as suggested by battle experienced crews. These modifications began to be known as the early, mid and late production Tigers.
The early production Tigers had rather tall commander cupolas which used bullet proof glass as its vision ports. Other visible characteristics were a top opening commander’s hatch, smoke dischargers on the turret sides, rubber rimmed road wheels, dual headlights and Feifel air cleaners. Mid production models saw the replacement of the commander’s cupola which was now shorter and used seven periscopes instead of vision ports. The commander’s hatch now swivels to the side, an MG34 ring mount was added to the turret top for anti-aircraft defense, a gun travel lock at the rear was added and the dual headlights were replaced with a single centrally mounted headlight. The rubber rimmed road wheels were retained but the first outer wheels were often removed due to the muddy and snowy terrain
on the Eastern front. Zimmerit was applied from August 1943 onwards. The smoke dischargers, pistol ports on the turret sides and Feifel air cleaners were discontinued. About 470 units of mid production series were produced between July 1943 and January 1944. Late production Tigers are most easily identified as the rubber rimmed road wheels were replaced with steel road wheels. the gun travel lock was discontinued and the gun sight was changed from a binocular TZF9b to a monocular TZF9c.
Despite the overall excellent design, the Tiger tank suffered from mechanical and logistical problems for a tank of its size. It was prone to mechanical breakdowns and needed constant repairs and maintenance to keep it operational. It was at one point forbidden to run the Tiger tank for long extended marches due to the overtaxed drivetrains. Fuel requirements were enormous, a resource which Germany was in short supply of. The massive size of the tank could not fit into the standard rail compartment.
To overcome this, two sets of tracks were needed, one narrower 66cm transportation tracks and a wider 80cm combat tracks. However when properly supported and maintained, it was a superior tank when deployed. It was not slow and un-maneuverable as some had noted. The road speed of the Tiger 1 was 38km/h, a mere 2km/h slower than the Panzer III and IV. The cross country speed equaled the Panzer IV at 20km/h while slightly faster than the Panzer III which was 18km/h.
Southern Normandy, August 1944, fighting was intense after the American invasion of the Normandy coast. The germans were in constant retreat and were faced with a chronic fuel shortage crisis. A convoy of german tanks, near the town of Vimoutiers were headed to a nearby fuel dump. Many tanks never made it and had to be disabled after exhausting all fuel supplies. This was one of them, belonging to sPzAbt 501, blown up by their own crew to prevent capture. Two charges were placed, one in the turret and one in the engine compartment. It now sits facing west, close to the town of Vimoutiers, France. The outside has been restored and properly painted, but the hatches and all openings are welded shut. The inside is nothing but a mangled steel of rust.
US M1A2 Abrams Air Soft RC Battle Tank- The M1 Abrams main battle tank is the principal combat tank of the United States Army and the United States Marine Corps, with three main versions being deployed starting in 1980: the M1, M1A1, and M1A2. The latest versions of the M1A2 have a new armor and electronics package. It is named after General Creighton Abrams, former Army Chief of Staff and commander of the Army’s 37th Armored Regiment. The M1 Abrams was designed by Chrysler Defense (in 1979, General Dynamics Land Systems Division purchased Chrysler Defense Division) and is currently produced by General Dynamics Corporation in Lima, Ohio, and first entered US Army service in 1980. An improved version of the M1, the M1A1, was introduced in 1985. The M1A1 has the M256 120 mm smoothbore cannon developed by Rheinmetall AG of Germany for the Leopard 2, improved armor, and a CBRN protection system. The M1A2 is a further improvement of the M1A1 with a commander’s thermal viewer and weapon station, position navigation equipment, digital data bus and a radio interface unit. 1/16 US M1A2 Abrams Air Soft RC Battle Tank Smoke & Sound (Upgrade Version w/ Metal Gear & Tracks). This tank can move forward, accelerating speed forward, backward, accelerating speed backward, rotating, barrel can be raised 30 degree. Turret can turn 320 degree. With this New 2.4Ghz Radio System you can have up New 2.4GHz spectrum technology, with the functions of automatic identification and precise code pairing, strong anti-jamming, and allow more than 20 tanks to run at the same time. This is a 1/16 scale fully custom painted and assembled replica of the US M1A2 Abrams Tank with the long gun barrel featuring radio-controlled of all movement including turret rotation and gun elevation. It features full suspension and a main gun that fires BB pellets up to 25 meters! Excellent value for money and a big improvement on the previous version. A great introduction to large scale radio controlled tanks. Maximum side turning angel of turret (left/right) approximately 320-degree Maximum vertical turning angel of gun (up/down) approximately 30-degree Maximum climbing gradient (changeable on different road surfaces) approximately 35-degree Product size: 56 x 23 x 18cm Function: forward high-speed forward, backward, high-speed backward and spin The barrel moves up and down 30. the turret turns 320 emulation music and action effect Full scale R/C function, supper chassis, Realistic suspension system Full scale R/C function simulative motor start-up sound Engine sound, machine-gun sound Cannonball sound Emulation action effect
Full scale R/C function simulative motor start-up sound; (Upgrade Version w/ Metal Gear & Tracks)
Maximum side turning angel of turret (left/right) approximately 320-degree
The barrel moves up and down 30. the turret turns 320 emulation music and action effect
Maximum climbing gradient (changeable on different road surfaces) approximately 35-degree
With the New 2.4Ghz Radio System, you extend the reach, functionality and handling characteristics. Ready To Run Request (6 AA Batteries for the Controller)
Exceed RC Rally Truck Radio Car 1/10 2.4Ghz Short Course Rally Monster .18 Engine 2-Speed Nitro Gas Powered RTR Ready to Run Off Road Rally Car 4WD Truck Stripe Blue RC Remote Control Car
The heart of the Rally Monster Nitro truck line has always been a .18 engine with reliable and consistent power for tough off-road driving. With revised porting and crankshaft, internal airflow has been optimized for increased power and torque. With the new design 2.4Ghz remote control pistol transmitter is every RC Car Driver dream to get their hands on a full-range 2.4Ghz system.
RTR 100% factory assembled with installed engine and radio gear makes getting started easy
The 2.5mm lightweight aluminum alloy chassis provides excellent performance and durability
New lightweight suspension arms deliver quick suspension response and reduce the critical sprung weight and overall weight of the car
Oil filled shocks with firm tuned springs keep the wheels on the ground
The new .18 engine features a new crankcase and upgrades to the cylinder, piston, connecting rod and crankshaft, delivers more power, more torque and extra cooling
2-Speed transmission for fast acceleration and insane top end speed
High capacity fuel tank with perfect caliber makes it impossible to overflow and provides long run times
Excellent differential system design provides quick access to the front or rear differential by removing only few screws. You can now access the front and rear differential for easy maintenance
High capacity fuel tank with perfect caliber makes it impossible to overflow and provides long run times
Hey everyone I’m back for one final Instructable…or one of the last at least. I have recently gotten into the hobby of RC cars and at first I didn’t know too much about, well basically everything. I have decided to help everyone else out by sharing everything I have learned over the last year. And by the way, I appreciate positive comments since this is still a work in progress.
Step 1: The Brands These are some of the biggest brands to choose from for buying an rc car. I know there are plenty more but these seem to be the most popular.
Traxxas cars are very fast, durable, and high quality. If you buy one of these, you will very rarely need to replace broken or worn parts. However, these cars and trucks start at about $300 and do not always include a battery pack and charger. To buy visit www.traxxas.com
Out of all of these, Exceed cars are the cheapest, but they often require spare parts and a rather high level of maitenence. I own an exceed, so I can personally tell you to only get an exceed if you do not want to spend a lot of money and you are willing to pay $10 for shipping every time a few pieces break. The cars start at $90 and are most of the parts are good quality. To buy visitwww.nitrorcx.com
HPI cars are not all that popular, mostly because they are as expensive as Traxxas but not as good quality. There is not much I can say about them other than from what I’ve read they have good quality parts and will not need many replacements. To buy visit www.nitrorcx.com or www.hpiracing.com
Tamiya is the classic RC car brand. They’ve been making good cars for more than 30 years. I own the Grasshopper from about 1984 or something but its actually really nice. I have never broken a part on it and I’ve been driving it offroad for a year now. They start around $200 but are reasonably slower than other brands for that price due to the classical “Low-Tech” designs. To buy visit www.tamiya.com
Step 2: The Car Types There are about 5 car types. I am not going to explain too much about each since they seem rather straightforward.
These are your average street cars. They are the fastest and the best on paved, flat surfaces. Do not get this if you are looking to drive in your backyard or want something with more power.
Drift cars are like on-road cars but with slick tires. YOu can slide around turns and still get almost as fast as an on-road car. They are good if regular cars bore you but you like to drive fast. Drifting is hard, however, so be warned.
Buggies are a cross between offroad and onroad cars. They are the second fastest on road but the slowest offroad usually due to their low wheelbase. Buggies are good for those who cant decide what type of car they want, since they can use it for both.
Truggies are also a crossover like buggies, but they are more for the offroad. It basically takes the frame of a Buggy and puts monster truck tires on it. These are the 3rd fastest on road and the 2nd slowest off.
Trucks are your monster trucks. They are amazing offroad but very slow onroad. They may flip a lot when trying to make high speed turns so these are not the best for on road and you should get these if you want to drive in the woods or in the grass the most.
Step 3: Electric or Nitro Now that you know the brands and types of rc cars its time to decide if you want to go with electric or nitro. Here are some of the advantages and disadvantages of each.
Better for at-home use
Cars have faster acceleration in general
Limited run times
need to wait hours to recharge batteries
Brushless motors are expensive
Longer run times
Need to buy gas
Smells bad (my opinion)
a little more expensive to buy the car
cars are more complex (more can go wrong)
Step 4: Electric Motors and ESC There are two different types of rc motors. Brushed and Brushless. Each motor type has its own kind of ESC (Electronic Speed Controller). Without an esc, your motor would just do nothing or go full throttle when you wanted to drive. Brushed motors are cheap but very ineffecient and lact power. The ESC’s are also cheaper. Brushless motors are efficient, powerful, fast, and last much longer. Brushless motors and ESC’s do not really have an expiration date, while brushed usually last about 6 months to a year. The main visual difference between the two is the brushless is sealed completely and has three wires, while the brushed has ventilation holes and two wires.
Step 5: Brushless upgrades MOTOR RATING
brushless motors are labeled with two things, a large number followed by “kv” and a smaller number followed by “t”. Basically, you need to check the ESC for that motor and read up a little. It will tell u what numbers followed by “t” will be good for your use. So if you want it offroad you will want more “t”, but you will get less “kv”. On-road is the opposite.
KV stands for the amount of rotations per minute per volt. So if this basically means the bigger the number, the faster your car will go. Just make sure if you want your car to drive good offroad you get a motor with the correct “t”.
For example, my brushless motor was a 6000kv 5.5t brushless combo. I checked the ESC and it said you need greater than or equal to 5.5t for on road and greater than or equal to 8.5t for offroad. I got an on-road motor so i could go fast (about 45mph). If you wanted to go offroad you could buy the 4000kv 8.5t motor, which goes about 35mph but has more power. If you do not understand something here pm me. I will be glad to help.
Step 6: Electric Car Layout This is the basic layout for exceed 1/10th scale rc cars and trucks. It has all the parts of other brands but the other brands have things in different places..
Step 7: LiPo or Ni-Mh Most of the time when you buy a car they come with a battery, but some may not. If that happens, you may be faced with this choice, LiPo or Ni-Mh. LiPo battery packs are the batteries of the future and if given the chance, make the investment. For $10 more you can get a battery pack which will give not only longer run times but also more power. They also do not lose their charge over time. Ni-Mh batteries are cheaper and “safer” (LiPo batteries CAN explode if improperly charged) but in the long run they are not worth it. Spend a few extra dollars and save a lot in the long run.
LiPo batteries are rated by two numbers, and Ni-Mh are rated with only one
the mAh of the battery packs is the capacity of the batteries. The larger the better.
Only LiPo’s are rated with “c” which is basically how fast they can deliver the power. Most battery packs are between 20-30c but you can find some that are 5000mAh 50c battery packs (those are VERY expensive; ~$50) or even an 8000mAh 50c battery pack (around $100) but BE CAREFUL!! Make sure you but a battery pack that will fit in your car!! Some battery packs are larger!
Step 8: How to pick the right car. Okay if you are buying an rc car this is how you should pick it out
pick an answer and go to the # in parenthesis. If there is a hyperlink in parenthesis click it and that is the car or cars that fit you best. (Note. I am including 1/10th rc cars only. These are the “Standard” size but feel free to either go smaller (1/16) or larger (up to 1/5)
1. I want to have a family friendly car that i can drive immediatly when i want to (2)
I want a car that is a little faster but dont mind taking more time to prep and costs more (11)
2. I want a durable car and am willing to spend more money (3)
I want a cheap car that may break in the future (7)
3. I want an offroad car (4)
I want an onroad car (6)
I want something inbetween (5)
11. If you want a nitro car you’re on your own. sorry.
Look I know there are pleanty more choices for each section but I just wanted to give everyone an idea about what the car they want may look like and so on. There are more cars you can buy then I listed so please understand that.
You’re all done. Now go research the the cars that match your style and find out which one to buy. It is smart to research simmilar cars also. Just keep in mind what you will want for the future. I made this mistake and now I have to pay a lot more money to maintain my car.
Step 9: Recommended Accessories and final tips. I would definintely recommend buying a complete extra set of tires for your car and some CA glue the day and minute you buy your rc car. The tires wear very quick so be prepared. I highly recommend making an investment when you buy your car and get a good quality one. I promise you it will pay off in the long run. I know from experience and I believe that over about a 2-3 year period, the amound of money spent on most cars and spare parts, no matter what the quality, will be about the same. Dont be a cheapskate…unless you are under 18. If you are not sure on the car you want to get there are pleanty of forums out there about the specific car you may want. Please just research before you purchase, I don’t want anyone crying to me because I said they shoud get this car and they hate it.
Anyone with any racing experience will tell you that jumping from class to class isn’t as easy as just selecting a new model on your transmitter and picking up a new truck. And, many people think that because the scale appeal of short course attracts so many newcomers to the hobby that the class is for beginners and thus easy. The point is that short course racing takes just as much skill as any other class and even experienced racers can have a hard time adapting and succeeding. If you want to run at the front of the pack, check out these five tips:
Racing is all about going fast, right? Well, if you’re constantly flying into corners, spraying dirt everywhere and ripping down the straights, you’re doing it wrong. You might feel like you’re going really fast and that may work to some degree with an overpowered truggy, but it’s the slow way to get a short course truck around the track. This is especially true if you’re in the 17.5-turn class. You can get away with a little bit of a heavy-handed driving style with 4WD class short course truck, but it is essential that you drive smoothly. You should drive like you have an egg strapped to your truck. Drive smoothly and try to keep your truck always rolling.
2. Stay Out of Trouble
I lot of people think short course is the class where it’s OK to beat and bash. Let them think that and let them smash into each other. Just keep your distance and let the action unfold—don’t be a part of it. You’ll lose far less time by slightly hanging back in comparison to getting involved in a wreck. Think about the time you lose when you crash and then have to wait for a corner marshal as compared to when you just ease back a bit and wait for the right time to make a move. We’re talking the difference between ten seconds and a tenth of a second or maybe the difference between first and third.
3. Passing vs. Catching
There’s a difference? There very much is a difference between catching someone and passing them, but you’d never know it watching the typical RC race. Most racers just race as fast as they can try to get around people as they catch them. It sounds good, but catching and passing are simply two different acts. When you catch someone think about whether you’re at a good place to pass. Some slow cars can be blown by down the straight, but keep in mind that a phenomenon called target fixation almost always occurs when you try to pass someone on the straight. They focus on your car and essentially subconsciously drive right into. It looks like they’re trying to squeeze you off the straight, but usually it’s just an unintended rookie type mistake. The point is it’s almost always better to pass in corners. Drivers of equal ability will take some work (that’s what makes racing fun), but there is usually a corner or two they go wide on and most newer drivers are usually easy to pass on the corner going into the main straight as the almost always fly in wide and get back on the gas too soon. Just slow to the inside and out accelerate the on exit.
4. Like a Sports Car
Short course trucks are just like sports cars. Makes perfectly good sense…if you have experience with the racing of full-size cars—either as a driver or an entrenched fan. You see, sports car or road course racers know that you brake in straight lines and accelerate in corners. This is the foundation of proper performance driving. You should be 100% done slowing down before you get to a corner and you should be accelerating through and out of the corner.
5. Practice Smart
There may be no such thing as bad practice, but some practice is definitely better than others. Most racers get their practice in by showing up early on race day. They’ll get there hours before they really need to and then spend most of that time shooting the bull with the other “diehards” that show up at the crack of dawn. When the early birds do hit the track it’s on a dry track that is nothing like the one they’ll race on. Experimenting with tires and setup at this stage is completely pointless as while that practice is valuable, the track is simply nowhere near race shape. It’s far better to stay late and drive on the track after racing has concluded. Check with the race director first, but most don’t mind and you’ll be running on a track in is much closer to race condition. This is the time to try every tire combo you can think of and mess with your shocks. Credits: Matt Higginshttp://rctruckstop.com/http://
Radio controlled vehicles/craft can be fairly cleanly divided into two categories, toy and hobby-level. The toy type are what most people think of when you mention “RC” — buy-and-drive playthings that you can purchase from a toy or electronics store. These are made strictly for the sake of fun. Then there are the more sophisticated and capable models targeted towards hobbyists who want to go faster, tinker with settings and upgrades, and perhaps participate in one of the many levels of established competitive events. Neither class of RC is necessarily “better” — they each have their positive and negative qualities. However, when you’re first starting out, it’s very worthwhile to choose which way you want to go up front, long before you pull out your credit card. This article presents the most important facts that can help you make an informed decision.
Toy R/C cars & trucks that you can buy at places like Toys R Us or Walmart start at $20-25 USD, and the most extreme ones top out around $150. Toy R/C planes start at around $30. When you step up to the hobby level, you’ll be hard pressed to find something complete for under $130. It’s very easy to spend $400-500 on a 1/10th scale car or truck that will last awhile, and a fully upgraded rig can easily shoot up to $2,000-3,000 USD.
In most cases, there’s really no comparison between the performance of toy and hobby-level RCs. Most toy cars & trucks will go anywhere from 5mph to 15mph, with the fastest few doing 20-24mph. Hobby-level RCs generally start at 15-25mph for electrics and 25-35mph for nitro versions. You can get monster trucks that will do over 40mph out of the box, and low-slung street cars that will do over 60 with no upgrades or modifications. In planes, the toys generally go around 5-15mph, while there are hobby-class craft that will do 30, 50, even 80mph in factory stock form. The most extreme speed differences are in boats. The toys often putt and crawl along at 1-5mph, while the hottest hobby-level racing boats will skim the surface at over 100mph
Mostly because they’re slow, toy RCs tend to handle more abuse than their more expensive cousins. The most common things to break are bumpers and body trim. The land and water-borne vehicles are built with a lot more material than is necessary, while aircraft tend to be constructed of foam and flexible plastics that bounce back after being bent. However…
When they break…
Repairing a toy RC is sometimes not worth the time & effort. Nearly all use multifunction circuit boards that combine several major functions, so if something goes electrically wrong, you have to change out the whole thing. Most manufacturers don’t have a factory service program, so you have to do the work yourself. Many don’t even offer a way to order new parts. Nikko is a notable exception. You can call them, tell them exactly what vehicle you have, describe the problem, and order precisely the part(s) you need. Many RC’s available at Radio Shack are actually from Nikko and are covered by this same level of support, with the additional convenience of being able to go back to the store and special-order your parts in person.
Fixing hobby-level RCs is, in most cases, a completely different affair. You can disassemble anything yourself. With most popular brands there are manuals and exploded views. There are service departments that handle returns of defective components. Electronics are, with rare exception, separated by function so that you don’t have to change your speed controller if your radio receiver crystal goes bad. Parts are available at brick-and-mortar hobby shops and dozens of trusted, popular web sites. There are online forums (message boards) where you can ask other hobbyists for advice and learn from their experience.
These days, ever more toy RCs have upgrades available for purchase from the original manufacturer, particularly amongst the smaller “micro” cars and trucks. These upgrades can range from different body kits to stickier tires to faster motors. They’re generally very easy to install, requiring at most a small screwdriver (which is often included) and 15 minutes, and can dramatically change the look or performance of the vehicle. They’re also great fun to install and let the owner add a bit of their own personality.
The most popular hobby RCs may have literally hundreds of upgrades available from many different aftermarket sources (companies other than the original manufacturer). Among the available upgrades may be anything from scale-realistic wheels to anodized aluminum struts in various colors to larger motors/engines to total conversion kits that fundamentally change the vehicle. Many hobby-level RC parts are reusable from one vehicle to another, especially electronic components and motors/engines. Popular RC models come with the support of other owners nationwide or around the world who share their experiences, tips, and home-grown modifications freely on the Internet.
Toy radio systems traditionally give you forward/reverse (or up/down) and left/right direction control. A growing number of cars & trucks these days now have “digital proportional” steering to boot, which gives you a number of steps between neutral and full turning, depending upon how far you turn the wheel or push the stick on the radio transmitter. Some, though, only let you go straight forward or to turn one pre-set direction in reverse. Toy helicopters are what you have to watch out for the most, as these sometimes give you only one axis of control — go straight up, or come straight down. Most toy RC’s are still only available on two frequencies (e.g., 27mhz and 49mhz in the US), with a few now offering 3 to 6 possibilities. This limits the number of vehicles that can run at one time, but more unfortunately it reduces the possibility of even being able to run two random vehicles together.
Hobby-class radio systems give you 64 to 256 (or more) steps of control in each direction for what feels like perfectly smooth turning & throttle control. These systems can also be easily changed between anywhere from 6 to 30 different frequencies, so even if the one person you want to race against or fly with has an absolutely identical radio setup, for around $20 and with a one-minute part swap, you’re both in the clear. Still better, the most recent generation of radio systems, while expensive, operate on an extremely high frequency and use small computer chips to automatically search for and lock onto an open channel, ensuring that you’ll never have a frequency conflict.
Toy RCs can be raced between siblings or friends around the neighborhood, but there’s generally no sanctioned racing. Hobby-level RCs are raced around the world in local, regional, national, and even international events, even including multi-track tours.
When all is said and done, the purchase decision between toy & hobby-level RCs should always come down to who the purchase is being made for. You don’t want to buy a $390, 45mph nitro-powered car for a 6-year-old. Likewise, a 16-year-old who wants to get into RC racing for sport wouldn’t be well-served by a $39 toy. What’s really interesting is the 26-year-old with a $25 micro-sized monster truck who would derive hours of fun from chasing his/her cat around the kitchen floor or gingerly driving around a makeshift desktop obstacle course during lunchtime at work. Before you buy an RC, know who you’re buying it for and do a little research. That extra time spent up front could make the difference between tremendous fun and awkward disappointment. Credits: http://www.beginningrc.com/http://