Tagged: Electric Boats

Rescue 17 Fireboat

Elevating Action on the Water

fire1

There are those products that come to market that get you all riled up as if you were a kid again and what you see on these pages is sure to get you going. As a kid, who didn’t want a sailboat that set off for unexplored lands while you played on the beach? And who didn’t want a plastic boat that braved the rapids of that stream behind your house? Well for big kids into boats, there is a new release that will blow away the wildest inner child’s imagination. The new Aquacraft Rescue 17 Fireboat is the first model boat I’ve ever reviewed with an “interactive” feature, a rotating water cannon capable of shooting a stream of water 10 to 12 feet. It also has lights and a powerful brushless system to propel it to other boats in peril. This boat is sure to get that inner kid in you excited to brave the water as a scaled-down fireboat captain.   Let’s Get the Rescue 17 out of the Box
The Rescue 17 arrived in a big shipping box. With an overall length of 38 inches, a large shipping box is required to protect the model. I was impressed by the packaging technique utilized to secure and protect the hull and cabin structure. There’s a considerable amount of packaging engineering required to create the foam padding encasing the hull to prevent damage during shipping. Although I had seen photos of the Rescue 17 on the inside cover of RC BOAT, Volume 4 and the AquaCraft website, I was still very impressed with the attention to scale detail on the hull and cabin structure. The Rescue 17’s amazing amount of detail adds to the realism. The old axiom, “A picture is worth a thousand words,” will provide a visual listing of the scale detailing.                                                                                                                              fire2

Getting Ready to Put out the Fire
There only a couple of things that need to be done to the Rescue 17 to prepare for operation. The light mast is secured to the top of the cabin with the .15 x 16 screw provided. A dab of CA glue applied to the bottom peg of the antenna will hold it to the light mast. Two “AA” batteries, not provided, are installed in the battery holder inside the cabin to power the light mast. The plug between the battery pack and on/off switch needs connecting. The Tactic TTX 490 4-channel radio requires four “AA” batteries that are also not provided.

Propulsion for the Rescue 17 is provided by an AquaCraft 600 brushed motor powered by a 2200 – 3300 mAh 3S LiPo battery pack. There’s plenty of space in the boat to use a 3S pack with a even a higher mAh rating. The AquaCraft Multi-Controller ESC provides both forward and reverse. Reverse speed is probably around 25 percent of top speed in forward.

It is highly recommended that the pump be primed prior to using the water cannon. There is a direction sheet describing how to prime the pump. This procedure involves removing the water line from the intake tube to the pump, submerging the line in water, and then reattaching the water line. I primed the pump using a fuel bulb filled with water and connected to the intake tube. Squeeze the bulb till water shoots out of the water cannon and the pump is primed. A two-ounce Sullivan Brand fuel bulb is a common hobby shop item. It would also be possible to adapt a cooking baster bulb to shoot water into the pump.                                                                                                                                                                              fire3 Putting out the Fire and/or Candles
Before heading out to run the Rescue 17, I dropped by the local Walgreens to pick up some candles. I have run nitro, gas, electric and sail boat model models over the past 50 years, but the Rescue 17 is the first time I’ve ever operated a model boat capable of extinguishing a fire. Granted, four candles on a piece of foam don’t provide a blazing fire. The candles did, however, provide sufficient flame to test my mini firefighting skills. I quickly discovered attempting to hit the candles with the water cannon wasn’t all that easy. Hitting the candles with the stream of water involved positioning the Rescue 17 the correct distance from the candles, using rudder and speed control and rotating the water cannon to spray across the candles. Racing a 60 mph hydroplane involves less coordination of transmitter inputs than attempting to keep the stream of water from the water cannon on the candles. The slightest amount of breeze greatly influences the positioning of the boat and the direction of the stream of water.                                                  At full throttle, the Rescue 17 moves across the water on plane with a great-looking bow wake. It is capable of making tight corners in either direction. However, sweeping corners would be more in keeping with scale operation of a fire boat. Run time with a 2200 mAh 3S LiPo pack was 12 – 15 minutes, running at full speed. Longer run times would be available if the Rescue 17 was stationary or operated slowly while attempting to extinguish candles.                                                                                                                     fire4After Run Maintenance
A maintenance step not included in the instruction manual was greasing the driveshaft. After approximately one hour of running the Rescue 17, I removed the driveshaft and it needed to have grease applied. It is necessary to remove the rudder to allow removal of the prop shaft. A 1.5mm set screw wrench is required to loosen the set screws on the rudder control arm and shaft coupler. A thin coating of Grim Racer Speed Grease Drive Cable Lube was applied to both the driveshaft and rudder shaft. Wipe any excess grease from the end of the prop shaft to avoid splattering grease on the hull bottom. It was necessary to push the driveshaft slightly downward to insert the shaft back into the coupler. Make certain the flat area on the shaft matches the coupler set screw.                                                                          fire5

Aftermarket Siren from RAM Models
After numerous trips to the lake with my Rescue 17, it seemed like there was something missing from the experience. That missing something was a siren. Having spent time at hobby shows with Ralph Warner, owner of RAM Radio Control Models, I knew Ralph had a siren in his electronics products inventory. Anytime I call Ralph, I know I’m in for a well-deserved, good natured ribbing. Over the years, Ralph has been very generous, providing me with various items his company sells for the RC aircraft, boat, and car enthusiast. Just a few days after our conversation the RAM Mark II Siren arrived in the mail.

The siren kit consists of a circuit board, on/off micro switch, cardboard material for a speaker box, a 1.5-inch speaker, and directions with diagrams. The only assembly required is constructing the speaker box and gluing the speaker to the box. I painted the box black and attached Velcro to the top. Velcro was also applied to the top of the cabin in back of the middle window. The plastic window was removed to allow the sound to exit the cabin. The on/off micro switch is mounted to a separate servo with double back tape. A Y-harness plugged into the throttle section of the receiver actuates the servo when throttle is applied. I spliced a connector into the wires leading to the speaker which allowed the cabin to be removed without having to remove the speaker.                                                                                                                      fire6

The siren definitely adds realism when the Rescue 17 is in operation. The RAM Mark II Siren is available from RAM Radio Control Models, RamRCandRamTrack.com, or you can give Ralph a call at (847) 740-8726.

The Last Word
The Rescue 17 is a model boat an entire family could enjoy operating. My wife, Maren, ran the boat for the photo shoot. Maren’s attempt to extinguish the candles proved rather challenging. Steering the boat wide open around the lake proved much easier than dousing candles 10 feet off the bow. The Rescue 17 is visually impressive as a static and operational model fire boat and it can provide a feeling of accomplishment when the only thing moving is the water cannon spraying water on candles. The Rescue 17 is proof you don’t have to be going fast to have fun with a model boat.                                                           Credits: http://www.aquacraftmodels.com/http://www.rcboatmag.com/Tony Phalen and Words & photos by Jerry Dunlap   http:// 

 

The Hull of Fame – Fast Electric

In over a decade of my Radio Control Boating experience, I have come in contact with many different Fast Electric boats. I can remember the days of charging up my NiCD packs in anticipation of a solid day of boating. Then one day there were an overwhelming amount of people switching to the newer NiMh battery technology. NiMh proved as a solid performer for many years to come. Then to every RC maniacs dreams, LiPo’s were born. This technology in batteries have given RC in general one of the biggest uproar. It allowed a much greater overall power system to be used in any RC imaginable.

Now in the boating community this was very big news. Boats take a tremendous amount of power to drive them at speeds that a typical RC car would travel at. This need for extreme power was the result of intense amounts of drag for any object moving through water. This shouldn’t come as  a surprise, when was the last time you changed your disk brakes on a boat? Yep boats don’t have brakes, it feels as if they have permanent anchors.

Before the battery technology and brushless technology that we currently have today, it was difficult to get a Ready to Run boat that traveled faster then 40 km/h. In most cases, when you did have a boat that was in that range of speed, it had to have 2 brushed motors running to the same prop shaft, running off of multiple cells and through an awkward transmission coupling it all together.

It wasn’t until the very first Mainstream boat was introduced that we started seeing some excellent performance numbers that changed the Ready to Run boating market.

The Hull of Fame – Fast Electric

The boat that enters the hull of fame at RadioControlInfo is one that every enthusiast will remember. It was the first mainstream brushless boat that could really benefit from LiPo’s, but many were still using top notch NiMh packs with great success.

Entering the hull of fame is the Aquacraft Supervee 27 RTR.

This Boat sold well before it even hit stores, it was well marketed, well designed, and well built. Many popular features were built in to the boat to ensure that it performed well, we will first start with the hull itself.boat23

Why the Supervee “27” – The Hull of Fame

The Supervee 27 was called the Supervee “27” as the hull length was based around being 27 inches in length. This was an important part of the design as size did matter. A hull under performs if the length is too small, but here’s the catch. The hull also under performs if the boat is sized to long. The under performance changes in each case where a smaller hull will suffer in the handling department and a hull that is sized too large for its power system will suffer in its power and performance department. In order to get this correctly, it takes a precisely selected hull length. boat24

Running Hardware – The Hull of Fame

Blue anodized running hardware was nailed to the back of this hull. The blue colour looks great, and the sizing of each individual component was well determined and affected the handling performance in a very positive way. Now since there’s so many good things about this boat to talk about, let’s hurry up and get over the one issue that this boat suffered from. Water cooling. Yep, that’s it. Now did it matter? Mine ran no problem with the limited amount of water that circulated through the cooling system.  The problem was found to be in the aluminum rudder of this hull and Aquacraft corrected this problem in a later version of this hull. Now that we are over that one hurdle, let’s move in to the power system.                       boat25

Welcome to Brushless Power – The Hull of Fame

Aquacraft dropped in the best power plant that a high volume RTR hull has seen in all of fast electric boating history,  making every father shake in his shoes while driving one of these.  Pop open the cowl on this boat and you will find a 3/4 horsepower electric motor. It isn’t just any motor, it’s a brushless motor.  Brushless motors at the time were relatively new to people and the 3 wires coming out of the can on this motor would confuse many people. I remember the countless threads titled ” which motor wire connects to which ESC wire?” This just goes to show the lack of experience in brushless motors in that particular time. Not many people seen them in boats before, especially RTR boats.                                                           boat26

Electronic Speed Control – The Hull of Fame

The component responsible for delivering battery power to the motor was an ESC (Electronic Speed Control) that was still designed around NiMh batteries. The only reason one could not use LiPo’s was because of the lack for an appropriate low voltage cutoff built in to the ESC. If you wanted to run the boat on LiPo’s you would simply have to time your run and bring the hull in after a certain time period or purchase a 3rd party device that would incorporate a lower voltage cutoff. Timing your run is something that I talk about a lot in the build a fast electric boat part of the website, and is something that every boater should be doing in good practice. When performed correctly this is a guaranteed way of preventing any over discharging of the batteries.                                                                                                    boat27

Putting it all together – The Hull of Fame

When putting it all together, this hull sold for approximately 300 USD. At this price point it was a very good deal, especially for something this advanced in the boating market. No other Mass produced radio control boat had all of these features combined in to one solid package.

What did you get in terms of performance? Well, quite  a handful. The handling characteristics of this 27 inch long hull was very good considering the speed you could achieve. Among many things, cornering felt smooth and predictable. Tight turning radius’ were possible at 70% speed which offered excellent control. This however was only possible during a right hand turn. Due to the nature of racing, our RC models at a race circuit will only make right hand turns and keeping this consistent, the Supervee 27 was only fitted with a right hand turn fin which did not allow for aggressive left hand turning performance. The overall speed of this boat heavily outweighed this small minute obstacle.  With 64km/h speeds possible, this boat was a handful. Even with NiMh packs, maintaining over 55km/h was entirely possible.

Paving the Road in to the Future – The Hull of Fame

Aquacraft Models whether they knew it or not paved the road for companies to jump on board the Ready to Run High performance Radio Control boating market. Looking at what we have available now is surely different in terms of variety then it was just 7 or so years ago.  Someone had to break the ice and it did not take long until there were Supervee’s buzzing around the lakes and ponds right after that ice starts to separate.                                                                                                                                                                         Credits:  Ryan http://www.radiocontrolinfo.com/   http://

RC Sailboating 101

A Basic Guide to Wind-Powered Boating                                                                    For anyone who might be interested in RC sailing it can sometimes be difficult to determine such things as what kind of sailboat to start out with, how to set it up and then how to best enjoy it on the water. Only a small percentage of hobby dealers are RC sailing savvy; so, this article will focus-on giving the novice sailor all of the information required to choose his/her’s first wind-powered marine craft.

SIZE/TRANSPORT NOTES
Since RC sail craft are available in many shapes that feature different mast/keel layouts, the beginner will need to first figure-out what size yacht will fit his/her lifestyle. If you have a small vehicle and limited storage space at home, a 20 to 30-inch long hull with an easily detachable mast/sails and a detachable lower keel may best suit your needs. If you choose a larger hull with an equally long mast and keel, it will take-up a lot more vehicle trunk volume; plus, more pre-sail assembly at the lake. Now if your local sailing location has any amount of submerged vegetation, a hull with a shorter-length lower keel will help prevent any weed buildup problems on the underside of the boat. As for the mast/sail layouts available, most kit/RTR boats use a two-piece mast to ease transport and the lower keel mounts in a recess in the hull bottom and it’s retained by a single thumb nut on the deck of the hull.sail1     KIT VS. RTR
Until recently the only way to start out in RC sailing would involve building a kit boat made-up from either a wood, fiberglass or molded plastic hull. Today both plastic and fiberglass RTR yachts are commonplace; so, you can now choose between constructing your first sail craft from a kit or by going with an almost-ready-to-run sailboat. If you’ve had some previous RC car/aircraft experience and have enough workspace, a sailboat kit from such companies as Victor Model Products, Thunder Tiger, Kyosho and Graupner can be built using regular hobby tools, adhesives and paints. To complete the majority of these kits you’ll only need to roundup a stick-style, two-channel surface radio with two servos, one of which will need to be a high-torque model to control the movement of the jib/main sails on the mast.servo1In the event you decide to go with a RTR sailboat, Pro Boat, AquaCraft and several of the kit makers listed above all sell preassembled yachts that are suitable for the novice sailor. In most cases, these RTR boats come from their boxes with only the need to install the pre-rigged mast and sails, attach the keel unit and assemble the hull’s support stand. Adding some batteries to the boat’s radio system will finish-up the yacht’s basic buildup as you can then check/trim the rudder and sail movements on the prepped hull. Once rigged at lakeside, you’ll want to make sure that all of the vessel’s mast and sail control lines are properly attached and tensioned as indicated in the owner’s manual. Then make a quick range check of the powered-up radio system to make sure that the sails and rudder run through their full range of motions. At this juncture you can launch your new sailboat and the fun of learning how to use the wind to “power” your hull can begin.                                                                     servo2A typical yacht’s onboard radio compartment will contain two servos, one of which will only need to be a regular-output unit for rudder control while the other will be a more high-torque servo to properly manage the movement of the sails.    First runs: Depending on the wind’s direction across the water you’ll find that by letting out the sails (moving the left stick on the transmitter upwards) will “catch” the air and this is what’s called running downwind or with the wind. To sail in the opposite direction (towards the wind) you’ll have to steer the hull at an angle to the air which is “tacking” and this technique will have less sail extension than the downwind transmitter stick settings. If you steer the boat’s bow directly into the wind it’ll likely just sit there which is to put the yacht “in irons” and the sailor will have to let the bow swing to one side to again get air in the sails. An important factor to sailing in either wind condition is that you must have enough forward hull speed to maintain the flow of water past the rudder blade as this will allow you to turn the hull whenever needed. It will take some time to master the balance between wind speed, sail settings and hull angles to the wind; but, in only a short time the novice will be able to maneuver his/her yacht no matter which direction the air is moving.                                                                                                   sail2Should you decide to put your yacht in competition, many sailboat clubs include kit and RTR hull classes in their race programs and with their sometimes tight rule packages you’ll have close racing like this in your future.              Sail support: Like all RC activities model sailing is more fun with a group of boaters and it’s not hard to locate other sailing enthusiasts that might reside near your home. The American Model Yachting Association’s website features a nice club directory to help you pinpoint and contact fellow sailors in your area and you can also use the site to help look for any yacht hardware or racing rules that apply to your brand boat. Custom sails, servos, etc. are all found in the suppliers listing while the rules guidelines section will tell just what modifications on your hull should you decide to try your hand at sailboat racing. Many current RTR and kitted sailing hulls regularly compete throughout the country and the sport sailor can learn a lot of useful running tips from those who race the very same sail craft as the one bought by the beginner. The adaptability of most RC yachts make them fun because both the sport and competitive sailor alike can upgrade their hull’s setup to improve the boat’s on water performance and do it for only a small outlay from their RC budget.sail3 When running your boat against the wind, moving the left stick downward on the transmitter will move the sails closer to the center of the hull and by combining this action with running the vessel sideways to the wind you’ll “tack” the sailboat until you’re ready to swing downwind again.                                                                                                                                                                             

SAIL POINTS
• Always apply a drop of CA glue to each rigging cord knot to prevent any mast/sail spillage in breezy conditions.

• When rigging the hull lakeside, keep the boat out of direct winds or simply lay it on the grass to avoid a blow over.

• Remember, a setup sailboat doesn’t like to be anywhere near a running ceiling fan.

• Braided fishing line (with the same outside diameter) can be used to repair/replace any mast or sail lines.

• Be sure to take a folding chair to the lake because the average yacht can sail for a minimum of two hours.

• Since most of a sailboat’s weight is in the keel, carrying it by the lower keel will be the most stress-free way to launch/retrieve it at the lake.                                                                                                                         WRAP UP
Equally suited to anyone looking for a quiet way to unwind from work or to experience a new style of RC boat racing, today’s selection of RTR/kit yachts can easily fit the requirements of the first-time sailor. Capable of conforming to any boater’s storage, transport and local sailing conditions a RC sail craft will only demand a simple cleanup and battery recharging between trips to the lake to enjoy some more wind-driven boating fun.trans1A regular two-stick surface transmitter is used to control sailboats with the left stick being used for sail movement while the right stick sends commands to the hull’s rudder blade.                                                     Credits: Tony Phalen and http://www.rcboatmag.com/  http:// http://

RC Boating Basics

       While RC airplanes and cars tend to get the majority of modelers’ attention, there is another area of RC that can be just as much, if not even more fun than both. RC boats provide a totally different experience than flying a plane or driving a car on many different levels. There are boats for everyone from performance enthusiasts, casual sailing fans, those who love the detailed runabouts of years gone by and more. Besides the aesthetics of individual boats, there are other considerations to think about such as battery or fuel power, to build or buy a Ready-To-Run boat and more.

Hull Styles:
When talking about the performance and handling of a particular boat, the configuration of the hull will have enormous impact on the overall performance and handling of a boat on the water. When talking about the different types of hulls there are several different configurations commonly used in RC boats that we’re going to discuss. They are, in no particular order Deep-Vs, catamarans, sailboats and Minis.boat14        Deep-Vs are one of the most popular hull style for boats and are capable of tremendously high speeds. A Deep-V gets its name after the look and profile of the hull’s distinctive V-shape. This hull configuration relies on hull strakes for improved stability and cornering ability, and its Deep-V design helps the boat absorb the impact of bigger waves on rough water. In addition, the V-shape causes the boat to bank in the turns to assist turning. When you jump on the throttle with a Deep-V, the nose will typically come out of the water and as the boat gets on plane, it will ride on the rear 1/3 of the hull. boat15       Catamarans have been modeled after off-shore race boats and, due to their wider hull footprint acting as 2 sponsons, provide additional positive stability when compared to a Deep-V. The additional hull surface in the water provides the handling improvements and increased stability. While it is more stable, the fact that a catamaran has more of its hull in the water translates into increased drag and slightly reduced top speed.  boat16       For the best in relaxation, sailboats offer the lowest maintenance and are very fulfilling in regards to boat-handling skills. With no power other than the wind, skills must be honed to learn how to adjust the sails to take best advantage of wind currents. There is nothing like tacking into the wind, seemingly defying the wind direction.                                                            boat17       When you want to drive a boat but you don’t have access to a huge piece of open water, a mini boat is the perfect option. Minis are smaller than other boats, but they feature similar handling and performance characteristics of their larger cousins. Minis are available as RTRs that require very little preparation time to get on the water and provide an inexpensive and economical way for someone to get their feet wet in the world of RC boating. Some mini boats can even be driven in swimming pools if you need to get your boating fix in a snap.                                                          boat18       While fuel-powered boats used to rule the roost recent advancements in motor and battery technology has swung the pendulum in favor of electric boats. Electric boats also provide simple, plug-and-play operation. When you want to drive your boat, all you need to do is charge up the battery pack, plug it in, and you’re ready to go. There are two different electric power types that a boat can use, brushed or brushless. Brushed motor systems provide a good place for people to get their feet wet in RC boating, so-to-speak, without breaking the bank. Brushed motor systems are a little slower and less expensive but still provide decent power and runtimes. Brushless motor systems provide more power, requires less maintenance than brushed motors and can handle a higher voltage level. With brushless motor systems you’ll see an increase in acceleration and top speed while also being more efficient than their brushed counterparts. With some brushless motor systems they can handle over 22-volts! Now that’s some serious power!                                                            boat19       Gasoline-powered boats use basically the same gasoline that your full-size car uses, making refueling relatively inexpensive and easy. There is one difference between what your car runs on and what an RC boat utilizes for fuel. RC boats run off of a gasoline and oil mixture, very similar to what you might use in a gas leaf blower or string trimmer. Boats that run off of gasoline engines are larger and use a larger displacement engine than their nitro-powered cousins. Regardless of whether you decide to go with a nitro- or gasoline-powered boat, you will find that, generally speaking, fuel-powered boats offer extended run times when compared to battery-powered boats. Fuel-powered boats also offer the intangible sensation of the realistic sound produced by the engine as it rips across the water’s surface, adding to the experience and excitement. The engine noise could possibly eliminate some ponds and streams from consideration as areas to drive in.                              boat20       Much like the advancements to the power systems we’ve seen some solid improvements in the realm of RC transmitters and receivers. 27Mhz and 75Mhz radio systems have, for the most part, been replaced with 2.4GHz systems. With 2.4GHz systems you will be less prone to interference from other sources and you don’t need to worry about frequency conflicts like in years past. Spektrum’s 2.4GHz Marine Technology also adds in the extra safety of an integrated cut-off to prevent runaways.                                                                                                                                              boat21       As with all mechanical devices, inevitably some maintenance or repairs must occur. There are several key tools that you should have on hand at all times in case you need to perform basic maintenance, repairs and tuning. Whether it’s a kit, ARR, or RTR, there should be a small plastic baggie that includes a basic assortment of tools and Allen wrenches. These tools tend to work for a while, but the metal they’re made out of is relatively soft. After several uses, the heads of the wrenches can round off, making getting a good bite on a screw head a real pain. Invest in a good hobby-grade set of Allen wrenches and nut drivers. You’ll realize their value the first time you use them. Dynamite carries a wide variety of hand tools to make these jobs go as smoothly as possible. These sets come in the most popular sizes used in RC and are as durable as they are affordable. From Allen wrenches and nut drivers to glow drivers and accessories, Dynamite has the right tools for the job. Other key tools for your box should include things such as a tuning screwdriver for making needle adjustments on your engine, needle-nose pliers, fuel bottle, glow igniter (also known as a glow driver) and extra glow plugs.                                                                                                                                                                               boat22       Both electric and nitro boats can make use of a battery charger. Obviously electrics will need to have their main batteries charged, but rechargeable batteries are used in nitro boats too. From the batteries for hand-held starters to receiver packs, having a good charger can make it easier to run your boat. Timer chargers will save you money, but don’t provide quite as complete of a charge. Peak detection chargers cost a little more but feature circuitry to ensure your battery pack is brought to a complete charge safely.
If you are planning on purchasing an electric-powered boat, some RTRs may require you to purchase a battery pack and a battery charger. You may even need to purchase these items for a nitro boat as well, especially if your nitro boat includes some sort of electric or hand starter. There are several things to consider when purchasing a battery pack. One of the biggest things to consider is the type of battery you will use, be it LiPo or NiMH. NiMH batteries are less expensive and provide solid performance. NiMH packs do tend to have a sharper discharge curve, meaning the speed and performance difference between the start and end of a run tends to be greater. You also have performance declines from one run to another in a day commonly. Another option would be to go with LiPo battery packs. LiPo batteries are lighter weight than NiMH packs and have a flatter discharge curve, meaning the performance from start to finish is more consistent. LiPo batteries also don’t have performance degradation issues like NiMH packs have.
Another consideration with LiPo battery packs is what is called the “C” rating. The C-rating of a battery refers to the amperage discharge capability of a particular battery. The higher the C-rating of a pack the more load it can handle without issue. You can always go with a higher C-rated battery for a boat but you never want to go with a lower C-Rating. For most boats a 30C rating or higher is sufficient.
Finally you’ll want to consider the capacity of your battery. Capacity refers to the amount of run time per charge each type of pack is capable of. A higher milliamp rating, or mAh, will translate into a long time between charges. For example a 3300mAh battery would run out of power before a 4200mAh battery pack. You can adjust the capacity up or down without issue, the only difference would be how long the battery runs before it needs to be recharged.                                                                                            Credits: proboatmodels.com and 

6/7/2012 by

Copyright:© 2012 Horizon Hobby, Inc http:// Shop Amazon Gift Cards. Any Occasion. No Expiration.

Model Warship Combat

Model warship combat is an international club activity, in which participants construct radio-controlled scale models of actual warships, most commonly those built by various nations during the early portion of the 20th century prior to 1946 such as the USS Des Moines, HMS Dreadnought or German battleship Bismarck. These models are armed with pneumatic cannons, and fight against one another on ponds and lakes. Model warship combat is sometimes considered to be a form of Naval Wargaming, but can also be considered a water-based version of Robot Combat since much of the internal systems and concepts are the same with similar radio control electronics, and in some cases possess similar pneumatics systems.

The sport is predominately divided into ‘Big Gun’ and ‘Fast Gun’ (or ‘Small Gun’) clubs. Both ‘Big Gun’ and ‘Fast Gun’ formats host annual national/international inter-club events. There is one major ‘Fast Gun’ club, the International Radio Control Warship Combat Club (IRCWCC). As of January 2015, the other major club, Model Warship Combat, Incorporated (MWCI) has been dissolved, and its members are being incorporated into IRCWCC. IRCWCC hosts a yearly week-long national event, “Nats”, where the fleets, divided up by historical alliances, (Allied and Axis), wage war against each other. Which ever team has the most points at the end of the week, wins that year’s Nationals. ‘Big Gun’ battlers have the annual event known as the North American Big Gun Open (NABGO),[1] and – since 2008 – the annual Big Gun Robotic Warship Combat open invitational at California Maker Faire.[2]
The Australian Battle Group (AUSBG) has two annual National Battles, held in January and June.              ship3 http://amzn.to/22rOrBO

History

Radio controlled combat of warships owes its popularity to a small group of men living in Texas (USA) in the late 1970s. The founding fathers of the hobby are Stan Watkins, D.W. Fluegel, and Jeff Poindexter. Back in the day, these men “toyed” with the idea of using radio controlled ships and equipping them with some kind of cannon so that they could then engage in combat.[3]

After much efforts, Stan created the “Mark I” cannon using an odd variety of plumbing parts and pieces. In those days, freon was used as a propelling agent and often their engagements resulted in little if any damage. After some time, and more engineering, they were able to “sink” an opponent in combat by shooting steel balls through balsa hulls. Organized groups formed very quickly after this achievement, with the formation of the IRCWCC, and Big Gun groups starting up in 1982 with the formation of NASWCA.[4]

Complete Mk I gun system 1977.

The iron pipe fittings formed the Freon 22 tank to power the gun operation. The small water valves were used to fill the tank and to supply pressure to the o ring “spool valve. When the gun was not in the fire position, the o ring separated the pressure source from the gun magazine hose. When the radio control unit was activated the servo moved the spool valve to the position that allowed the freon to flow from the tank to the gun magazine hose. As the magazine was pressurized, the BBs flowed into the restrictor tube until the pressure built high enough to force the BBs through the restrictor and out of the barrel. The exit velocity of the BBs was enough to enable the BBs to punch holes in the model ship’s 1/32 inch hull skin. This linear magazine and barrel assembly was not able to fit a small model ship’s gun turret. To improve scale appearance, a brass elbow fitting was added to reduce the above deck size of the gun. This enabled the magazine to exit the deck vertically into the base leg of the elbow. This was the reason for development of the new Mk II breach/barrel assembly. The first of these was installed on (Stan Watkins) earlier constructed model of the USS Arizona (l/144 scale). The BBs (about 100) were loaded into the clear hose. When the gun pressured the hose, BBs would feed into the smaller clear plastic tubing behind the barrel brass tubing. The pressure would build until the BBs could blast through the small (restrictor) tubing and out the barrel. At that point, they had adequate power to penetrate the 1/32 balsa hull skin. Numbers of BBs would “spurt” out. To get more than one spurt, the warship combatant had to rapidly close the spool valve after the start of the spurt. This was possible since the Freon feed hoses were small and had low flow.[5]

From this inauspicious beginning and after years of technological advances, the hobby has improved dramatically in both reliability and playability. Many different groups having formed, fighting scale model warships ranging from the reasonably rare 1:48 scale to the most common 1:144 scale, with different and largely regional variations on the rules used. ship2 http://amzn.to/22rOrBO

Design conventions and model construction

Extensive design conventions exist to provide that the fighting effectiveness under various conditions remain proportional to the prototype vessels. These conventions also dictate safety features [6] as well as mandating design features to allow for recovery of defeated vessels.[6]

The model warships are fully workable, with small electric motors or servo-operated sails for propulsion,[6]working steering systems actuated typically using servos, and are generally armed with self-reloading pneumaticcannons.

The models cannot be purchased as many scale models can, from a company, with everything in one box. They always include a degree of scratch building. There are, however, several suppliers that sell many of the necessary parts for construction. For example, Strike Models, and Battlers Connection.

Mechanical systems

While many models use a combination of switches and/or relays physically actuated by servos to control the propulsion system, most newer models now use either Electronic Speed Control units or solid-state switching boards such as those found in Robot combat, greatly reducing the complexity of the wiring of the propulsion system as well as overall complexity of design. Propulsion is achieved through the use of electric motors coupled to shafts passing through stuffing tubes driving semi-scale propellers. All active mechanical systems are required to be operated via electrical or pneumatic means. Banned are any and all mechanisms relying upon chemical combustion which could contaminate the water with fuels, oils, and other biologically toxic chemicals.[6]

Weapons systems

Cannons use steel balls ranging from .177″ to .25″ in diameter as projectiles, and typically CO2 or compressed air is used as the working gas for propellant. As of 2009, a small handful of small Big Gun ships were equipped with cannons powered by compression springs. In Big Gun combat, club rules frequently include provisions for the arming of torpedoes, represented through the use of fixed cannon firing 0.25″ diameter projectiles.[7]Although individuals have attempted to construct self-propelled 0.25″ diameter torpedoes, they have yet to be formally documented or demonstrated in use. Additionally, vendors have demonstrated working prototypes of weapons control systems suitable for Big Gun combat to enable multiple turrets on a single vessel to be coordinated as a single weapons battery to produce converging weapons fire at a given vector and range from the vessel so equipped. Pyrotechnics are specifically prohibited from use for weapons to protect the safety of people and animals in addition to preventing environmental contamination.[6]

Cannon types

  • Arizona Cannon/Single Barrel Gun System – easy to manufacture cannon named after one of the first model ships in which it was successfully implemented [8][9]
  • Ball-bearing interrupter – one or two steel balls in-line with the gas supply line interrupts the feed of ammunition into the breech, ensuring that only one projectile is fired at a time
  • JC White Rotating Cannon – first widely successful multi-barrel rotating turret [10]
  • JC White Torpedo cannon – similar to the rotating cannon without the rotating magazine on top [11]
  • Indiana Cannon – a refinement of the JC White Rotating Cannon [10] so named due to the US State in which it was first manufactured. Evolution of the JC White design into the Indiana Cannon marked the point at which the design encountered widespread adoption in the Big Gun format.
  • Jam elbow – [12]
  • Negative pressure/Quick Exhaust Valve – Typically uses a Clippard Exhaust Valve in its construction and relies upon a discharge of pressure from a pneumatic control circuit to actuate the cannon.[13]
  • O-ring breech –
  • Piston interrupter – a “piston” in-line with the gas supply line interrupts the feed of ammunition into the breech, ensuring that only one projectile is fired at a time[14][15]
  • Sliding breech –
  • Spring-loaded breech – [16]
  • Spring-fired/Spring-powered cannon – instead of directly utilizing exclusively compressed gas to impart kinetic energy to the projectile, a spring affixed to a piston to compress gas in a chamber or a spring directly acting on the projectile is used.
  • Spurt cannon – a spurt cannon is a type of fast gun cannon that lacks a mechanism to interrupt feeding of steel balls into the breech. Subsequently, it will continuously fire until either the supply of ammunition or compressed gas is depleted. ship 1 http://amzn.to/22rOrBO

Cannon configuration

  • Depressing – due to concerns for safety and the goal of inflicting damage to an opposing ship at or below the waterline, cannon can be configured to incorporate negative elevation with an adjustable mechanism
  • Fixed – Fixed cannon cannot be trained, requiring the captain to maneuver the ship to bring them to bear on a target instead.
  • Rotating – To enable a ship to bring the maximum possible firepower to bear on a given target, cannon can be equipped with a mechanism to facilitate rotation if the corresponding cannon on the real ship were so equipped. Additionally, cannon rotation permit a ship to continue to fire upon a target while maneuvering, potentially increasing the number of successful hits within a given period of time. While uncommon in Fast Gun due to a combination of complexity and limited tactical benefit, cannon rotation is common in the Big Gun format.[17]

Ammunition magazine configuration

  • Straight-magazine — Steel ball ammunition is housed in a relatively straight length of rigid or flexible tubing and can be gravity or force-fed into the cannon breech.
  • Coil-magazine – Ammunition is housed in tubing as with the straight-magazine configuration; however, the magazine tubing is tightly coiled, sometimes around the cannon riser and/or valve so as to reduce the longitudinal volume required for the cannon. Ammunition can be gravity or force-fed into the cannon breech.
  • Canister-magazine – In a canister-magazine configuration, ammunition is housed within a cylindrical chamber integrated into the cannon body. Ammunition is typically gravity-fed into the cannon breech.

Structure

While some early vessels were built in 1/150 scale, scales have become standardized with the most common construction scale of 1:144, although 1:96, 1:72 and 1:48 scale modeling groups also do exist. The majority of hulls are constructed from either fiberglass (with penetration windows cut into it), or scratch built with wood ribs. The exteriors of the ship’s hulls are sheeted with balsa wood, which allows the relatively low velocity cannon projectiles to penetrate them to let in some water, with the idea of sinking the model if the on board bilge pumps can’t compensate for the rate at which water enters the hull.[6] Superstructures are often constructed with a combination of lightweight wood, plastic sheet, thermoset plastic resins, and corrosion-resistant metals. Smaller vessels such as light cruisers and destroyers often incorporate less-durable but lighter superstructure construction in order to maximize the displacement available for weapons systems. Other than the balsa skin, the models typically escape real damage, and can be patched and turned around in typically 15–30 minutes.

Combat formats

Campaign

Instead of a single battle, multiple battles or sorties are combined to form a campaign of combat events, sometimes with a preceding battle dictating the available of rearming opportunities afforded to a team in the succeeding battle. A campaign can also consist of multiple objective-oriented battles or team free-for-all battles.

Free-for-all

Typically held in sessions divided by vessel combat units or combat value, during a free-for-all, each captain operates his or her vessel to sink or damage as many of the other vessels on the water as possible while minimizing the damage incurred. It is often played in a “last-man-standing” format where the winning vessel is identified simply as the last to sink or be disabled.

Objective

Objective format combat is typically executed in the form of a scenario, requiring that each team accomplish specific objectives to earn points and/or win the scenario. Such combat may involve sides of asymmetrical strength, such as when attempting to simulate a recreation of a historic battle.

Team free-for-all

A common combat format across the different model warship combat formats, team free-for-all involves the division of players present into two teams that are equal based upon a combat strength rubric (i.e. units in Fast Gun or a combination of displacement tonnage and cannon count in Big Gun) which then sortie against each other in accordance with the club’s rules and scoring system.

Club formats

Big Gun

File:NTXBG’s Richelieu and Missouri duke it out.JPG

NTXBG’s Richelieu and Missouriduke it out on the water

File:Kagero Stern Damage.jpg

Kagero (1/72 scale) stern damage

Unlike Fast Gun clubs, Big Gun clubs operate based upon a loose confederation, with each club reserving the ability to establish and maintain its own rules, provided that they coincide with the spirit of Big Gun Model Warship Combat. With versions in 1/48, 1/72, 1/96, and 1/144 scale, Big Gun Model Warship combat clubs have rules that make provisions for cannon caliber and armor thickness to be scaled according to that which existed on the prototype vessel. Big Gun Model Warships allow weapons to be installed in rotating turrets as they were mounted as the prototype historically.[6][18][19] Damage Control is accomplished via a centrifugal bilge pump capable pumping a regulated volume of water out of the hull. The volume allowed is based on the prototype ship’s displacement. Typically the flow rate varies from 30 gallons per hour (GPH) for the smallest ships to 90GPH for the largest ships.[6][18][19]

Big Gun clubs are largely descended from the now defunct “North American Warship Combat Association” (NASWCA) dating back to late 1981/early 1982.[3][4]

Fast/Small Gun

Principally known as Fast Gun by its members due to few restrictions on rate of fire, this format is sometimes also identified as Small Gun because of its exclusive use of .177″ (BB) caliber guns. About 80% of active clubs are of the fast gun variety, in which all ships are built in 1/144 scale and use .177″ caliber guns, which in most cases are installed in fixed mounts but may rotate depending upon ship class. Additionally, all ships are fitted with a standardized 1/32″ thick balsa wood ‘Armor’ to yield an easily penetrable hull. Damage control is accomplished through the use of centrifugal bilge pumps fitted with either a 1/8″ or 1/16″ diameter flow restricter. The clubs that follow this format of combat include the International Radio-Controlled Warship Combat Club (IRCWCC) and Model Warship Combat, Incorporated (MWCI).

A subset or adaptation of small gun is known as Treaty Combat. Treaty Combat, also abbreviated simply as Treaty, incorporates uniform caliber weapons, armor, and combat units in a way similar to that defined in IRCWCC or MWCI rules; however, speeds and pump capacities are limited based upon the prototype vessel and displacement, respectively. Thus, Treaty Combat incorporates some of the reduced-cost aspects of the Fast Gun format with some of the scaled characteristics of Big Gun.                   Credits: http://research.omicsgroup.org/index.php/Main_Page                                                                         http:// http://  Join Amazon Prime – Watch Thousands of Movies & TV Shows Anytime – Start Free Trial Now

Boating Racing Rules and Etiquette

Things You Should Know Before You Head to the Starting Line

Boat Racing Rules and Etiquette

Stirring up the local pond with your favorite RC boat is a great way to spend the day. Doing it with a friend or two is even better when you can race for bragging rights. If you and your buddies are the competitive types then naturally you’ll eventually want to find organized boat races in your area. Something to keep in mind is that two or three guys on a pond is very different from up to ten boats competing for first place on a larger course. Elsewhere in this issue of RC BOAT you will find information on what to expect when you show up at a race event. Here we will focus on some of the rules you will need to be aware of before you take your place on the starting line for the first time.

There are two sanctioned organizations for boat racing and we have provided you with links and QR codes for these groups within the graphics on the next page. IMPBA is the International Model power Boat Association. NAMBA is the North American Model Boat Association. Organized events are likely to follow the rules for one of these two groups. Their courses are similar in size with the main difference being the number of buoys used to mark the turns.

Boat Racing Rules and Etiquette

GET FAMILIAR WITH THE COURSE
It’s likely that you didn’t have any buoys or other markers to navigate around on your local pond so it may take some getting used to the fact that you now have “lanes” to constrain your driving path. You’ll want to arrive at the event early enough to get some practice time in before the heats begin. The races are run clockwise on an oval course. The turns are marked with either three or five buoys, depending on which rules are followed, with an “invisible” arc connecting them. Drive at no more than half throttle as you learn to judge the distance between your boat and the turn buoys. Ultimately you want to be as close to this “line” as possible without crossing it to avoid any penalties. Your boat must maintain a straight line from one turn to the next. Swerving may add a level of fun on the local pond, but can result in a penalty on a race course. Coming out of the corners be careful not to oversteer into the center of the course. Drive this until you are comfortable with how you handle the entire course.

Boat Racing Rules and Etiquette

DRIVE WITH THE PACK
It’s one thing to master the course when you are the only one on it. It is another thing to master it with other boats around you. It is important to keep an eye on where they are and stay in control of your boat while navigating through the wake of others’ boats. It’s time to hone your peripheral vision and reactionary skills. Start with just one or two other boats if possible. Try to enlist the help of some of the experienced racers. Most are likely to be willing to help a newbie. Drive the course while in close proximity of the other boat(s). Begin by first following slightly to the rear and off to the right. Keep your focus on your boat while observing, anticipating and reacting to the movements of the others. If they sweep wide on the turn you need to sweep just a bit wider. As the distance between boats becomes greater you still need to remain conscious of their locations. This is where peripheral vision comes into play. Eventually you want to be able to shift your vision to the other boat briefly while keeping your boat in your peripheral view, but this will come with experience. It is critical to be aware of what is in front of you and to the sides at all times. Don’t worry about what’s behind you. It’s the responsibility of the drivers behind you to pay attention to what is in front of them.

Boat Racing Rules and Etiquette

Boat Racing Rules and Etiquette

INVISIBLE LANES AND LEGAL PASSING
There are indeed lanes, however the lines defining them are imaginary. They are basically as wide as the boats that occupy them. You are at the mercy of the race officials when it comes to lane infractions. At any given time the boat closest to the buoys has the inside lane. You are permitted to pass this boat and overtake the inside lane but always pass on the left (outside) and do not pull in front of the other boat until you are at least three boat lengths ahead. Four or five boat lengths will help avoid a penalty call if the officials don’t see the same three boat lengths that you did.

Changing lanes behind other boats require focus. You will have the boat’s wake to deal with so you should cross it at about a 45 degree angle to avoid upsetting your craft. Avoid the rooster tail of water being showered your way as well as this has the potential to make your boat unstable not to mention the possibility of water getting into the hull. If another boat has passed you and enters your lane as it approaches the turn, you may need to throttle back to let him in. You always want to play nice because the table could be turned on the next lap.

Boat Racing Rules and Etiquette

Boat Racing Rules and Etiquette

RACING INFRACTIONS
There are several ways to be penalized. Many are going to be based on the officials interpretation of what they saw. You may not always agree but you always need to smile and nod then move on. Some of the infractions are described with the graphics on these pages. You can have a penalty called for something as simple as cutting a buoy on the turn or something more serious like running into a dead boat. Sometimes you can get away with a warning for a lane infraction if no other boat was affected. Again, it is up to the individual race official. Each organization has its own set of rules and penalties so it’s best to download their rule books and familiarize yourself with them prior to entering a race. The more you know going in, the better off you will be once your names is on the roster.

Boat Racing Rules and Etiquette

FINAL THOUGHTS
The bottom line here is that racing can be a fun part of any aspect of the RC hobby. Just as with car and truck races there are rules you need to know, some official and some are just commons sense. Practice driving close with your buddies on the local pond because proper control is only learned through experience. Keep an open mind and remember this is all about having fun with a little competition. After all…these are basically toy boats. Keep the stress low and the fun high. Now go race something!                                                                               Credits:  Tony Phalen & rcboatmag.com http://Red Line Remote Control http://

WL913 Brushless Boat High Speed Racing RC Boat

http://www.banggood.com/Wltoys-913-Brushless-Boat-High-Speed-Racing-RC-Boat-p-970794.html?p=ZF22172657341201509Aboat11  Description:
Item No.: WL913
Battery: 7.4V/11.1V 2700MAH
Charging time: Approx. 200mins
Playing time: Approx. 5mins
Controlling distance: 150m
Battery for controller: 1.5AA*4pcs
Product size: 62*26.2*14cm
Boat Weight:1000g
Frequency: 2.4G
Material: ABS, PA, PC
Color: Yellow

Feature:
The Max Speed: 13.8m/s(50km/H)
The longer working time of brushless motor
Water-cooling system makes the longer life of boat

Package Included:
1 × Brushless Boat
1 × Controller
1 × Instruction
1 × Charger
1 × Spare part kits
1 × Boat Battery   http:/

The Top 10 facts about RC toys and RC vehicles!

RC-Vehicles-1  http://Red Line Remote Control

When it comes to RC toys, remote control toys, RC vehicles and remote control vehicles there are 10 really important things that everyone should know! This is especially the case if you are looking to buy a toy or vehicle for the first time or even if it’s just been a fair while since you last bought and you’re getting back into things.

The 10 things I’ve covered below are the best starting point to get a good understanding of the current state of the RC and remote control world including some of the common jargon and terminology used.

If there is anything else you think I’ve missed here that would also be great to have listed please feel free to leave me a comment below and perhaps we can later do a revised version of this post extending our list of 10 out to a top 20!

1. What is the real difference between ‘RC’ and ‘remote control’?

Now this is a very interesting one! Often when you read anything on the subject of remote controlled toys and vehicles you’ll either see the term ‘RC’ or just ‘remote control’ used. Often these terms are also used interchangeably (just like I do on this site).

So is there really a difference between what these two terms refer to?

To some degree this really comes down to who you ask. Just check out any of the forums on the internet and you’ll see there are even often some varying views within the community itself as to what the distinction really is.

Let’s start by looking at the term ‘RC‘. This is generally acknowledged to be short for ‘radio control’ and refers to the technical set up of the gadget in question which (keeping it relatively simple) is essentially:

  • A ‘transmitter’ which is the hand held controller you use to control the direction, movement etc of your gadget. When you move a joystick on push a button on your hand held controller effectively converts this movement into a message which is sent out as radio waves to your gadget.
  • A ‘receiver’ which sits inside your gadget to be controlled and receives the radio wave instructions sent from the transmitter.
  • A ‘servo’ (or even more than one servo) which is passed the instructions from the receiver and in response to these instructions will send an appropriate message to the motor (or motors) in your gadget.
  • A ‘motor’ (or even more than one motor) which once it receives is instructions from the servo takes action to put those instructions into effect e.g. makes your car race forward or backwards or turn left or right etc.

If you’re after a more in depth explanation of all these different components and how they interact on a more technical article then check this out

So in comparison to this very clear technical based understanding, what does ‘remote control’ actually mean? Now this is where a bit more disagreement often arises.

Unlike the very clear technical basis we have to define the term ‘RC’ when it comes to remote control we are much more looking at a descriptive term which on its most widely accepted meaning refers to any method of controlling a toy, vehicle or other gadget from a distance.

So this could refer to methods of control such as by wires, by infrared (as a lot of the cheaper models today use very effectively) or even arguable by RC as of course when you use an RC transmitter to operate a car you are still operating it from a distance.

So while all RC gadgets could be seen to be ‘remote control’ not all ‘remote control’ gadgets have the necessary technical make up to be considered ‘RC’ gadgets.

BUT increasingly people use the terms interchangeably (even I tend to on this site) and in all honesty it doesn’t really matter unless of course you are looking at buying and are really specifically after some of the advantages radio control may have over some of the other forms of remote control. In these cases make sure you do spend some time looking at the detail behind the name used to make sure you are really getting what you want.

2. Are RC Toys and RC Vehicles expensive?

Yes and no! The answer here really depends on what you are after.

The great thing we are seeing about some of the developments in new technology in the space (as I talk about further below) is that the range of toys, vehicles and gadgets is increasing not only in terms of the overall number available but also the previously existing boundaries are being pushed in terms of what is available to high end buyers as well as at a much more affordable entry level.

For example you can pick up a pretty impressive and fun little indoor RC helicopter for less than $30.        RC-Helicopter1 http://Red Line Remote Control

But at the very high end of things you can also spend into the thousands on a top of line nitro powered remote control car for competitive racing, particularly once you invest in the replacement parts and upgrades most people who get involved in competitive racing would consider necessary.

3. Are they just for kids?

In some cases definitely yes but in some cases definitely no!

You can of course get some great looking and very reasonably priced cars for kids of all ages that are great for safe indoor use. However at the other end of spectrum some of the high end modern nitro powered cars can hit 100 mph (and come with a price tag to match)! Definitely not a toy!

Similarly planes and other vehicles that can also achieve significant altitudes and velocity (such as some helicopters and drones) need to be used responsibility at all times and definitely wouldn’t fall into the toy category.

4. Is it a solo hobby?

Although when many people think of remote control vehicles they often associate it as a fairly solo pursuit there are in fact a number ways that is becoming more of a community focused pass time if you want to get involved in that way.

The internet has of course introduced a wide number of forums and social networking sites on which you can discuss all aspects of remote control toys and vehicles from maintenance, to new technology and even ‘vintage’ collectables. However there has also always been a strong club culture for real enthusiasts who want to get involved in competitive racing or just want to enjoy and show off their vehicles with others.

Today clubs for all types of vehicles are still strong and if anything recent years have seen resurgence in some areas, particularly as some of the more high performance and competition focused vehicles also come down in price.

5. Are remote toys and remote control vehicles easy to break?

Overall the higher end remote control toys and remote control vehicles are generally more robust these days than they have ever been, but the true answer to this really falls into parts.

Firstly all vehicles are of course generally designed for a specific purpose.

For example a remote control sailing boat is not going to go well in rougher waters and waves and also anRC car designed for on track racing will not cope well on a rough dirt track.

Using a remote control vehicle outside of its intended areas of use is not only going to increase the chances for breakages or permanent incapacitation but – let’s face it – it’s just not going to be as much fun if the performance of your vehicle will be hampered by the environment you’re trying to use it in.

Secondly, no matter how robust something is you need to be aware of its inherent limitations and also what maintenance it requires to keep it in the best condition. A higher end RC vehicle may be sturdier in the short term but its optimum performance and overall state of repair may deteriorate more noticeably overtime than a lower end vehicle if it’s not properly maintained.

So when choosing an RC vehicle think about how committed you really want to be to maintenance of the vehicle and also just how respectfully you are likely to treat it and tailor your purchase accordingly. This is a particularly important consideration when buying for kids!

6. Is the technology improving?

Definitely! The speed of motors, the robustness of the vehicles manufactured and of course the size and expense of the other component parts are also decreasing meaning that there are a lot more possibilities theses days when it comes to the purchase of (or building your own) RC vehicles in all price ranges.

At the lower end of the spectrum some of these technological advances have been especially seen in the greater quality of infrared and non ‘radio controlled’ RC vehicles (and most particularly those that fall into the ‘remote control toy’ category) that we’ve seen come onto the market in recent years.

The other really interesting development (I think!) in the space has also been the increasing emergence of iPhone and all the mobile phone and tablet controlled vehicles. These use a range of technologies from infrared ‘dongles’ that connect to your mobile device (like these ones do) to even blue tooth (like this one does) to control your vehicle.

7. Are there more to RC vehicles and RC toys than just cars, planes, boats and helicopters?

Yes! Yes! Yes! These days you can pretty much pick up any time of RC vehicle you can wish for. From tanks, jets, and submarines to even more exotic models like this one: http://Red Line Remote Control

8. Do all RC toys and RC vehicles run on batteries?

Although controllers will always use some form of batteries (whether standard off the shelf or more specific rechargeable ones), vehicles themselves can run on either batteries (in varying forms once again) or what is referred to as ‘nitro‘.

Nitro fuel is essentially just a methanol-based product that has had varying amounts of oil and nitromethane added. The type of nitro fuel you want to use depends on the type of vehicle your running (and also of course your budget!). Speciality nitro fuel can be purchased from all hobby shops and for the more intrepid amongst us you can in fact mix up your own!

Although less common than Nitro powered vehicles it is also possible to get vehicles which run on variations of more traditional gasoline.

Nitro and gas powered engines are generally only found in the more highline or competitive focused models. Definitely not something you want running inside your house!

9. Are old RC toys and RC vehicles able to be refurbished or updated?

This really depends on the model you have but for the ones which were more expensive when purchased generally you can update and up-spec them.

To some degree this will also depend on just how old the vehicle in question is and whether any newer parts can be substituted for the older materials.

There are however some fantastic examples out there of the refurbishment of older vehicles – check this out from the guys at IconicRC featuring a refurbished and modified Tamiya Hot Shot II 4WD Buggy (also actually the first car I had when I was 11!). http://Red Line Remote Control

10. Are the best ones only for use outdoors?

Although you can get some amazing RC toys and RC vehicles intended to be primarily used outdoors some of the developments in the whole RC space in recent times have most definitely benefitted what types of vehicles and toys you can run indoors.

From really fun and robust helicopters and drones to mini cars, iPhone controlled vehicles and even robots.

Whether you want something for indoors or outdoors these days you can be guaranteed to have a wide range of options to choose from!                                                                                                                                 Credits: http://www.myrctopia.com/

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RC Recreation

 

  On a beautiful warm sunny day, spending time with your family and friends, what better way to fulfill that enjoyment than with a remote controlled boat & pickup truck at the lake. You’ll have hours of delight plus memories to cherish for a lifetime. http://                                 http://  http:// http://



Remote Controlled Electric Boats

Remote control watercraft can be split into a number of types: electrical, breeze, gasoline, along with nitro. Remote controlled power fishing boats include the least difficult to take care of and they are relatively low-cost when compared to the other selections.

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