Tagged: RC Boats
Goolsky Vantex Challenger 1300BP (Flame) FS-GT2 2.4G Transmitter High Speed 60 km/h Electric RC Racing Boat
From its deceiving size to its distinctive trim, the Blackjack™ 24 catamaran is sure to leave the competition stupefied. With its powerful 2000Kv brushless motor, 30A ESC and precision servo, this catamaran leaves more expensive boats in your wake. Want to experience all catamaran boating can offer at full-throttle? Then look no further than the Blackjack™ 24. From its deceiving size down to its distinctive trim scheme, the Blackjack 24 comes ready to be your ace in the hole and to deliver the RC boating action you crave. Equipped with a formidable 2000Kv water-cooled motor and action ready Li-Po compatible 30-amp ESC, this 24-inch catamaran is sure to turn heads with the kind of power and speed that no one will see coming. So go all in, raise the stakes and claim your bounty with the Blackjack 24 catamaran.
- Capable of reaching speeds of 30 MPH with optional accessories
- Equipped with a brushless 2000Kv water-cooled motor and 30A Li-Po compatible ESC
- Includes 2.4GHz Pro Boat radio system
- Off-set rudder system provides superb stability and keeps the Blackjack-24 glued to the water
- Hull mounted waterproof steering servo
- One piece internal electronics tray
- Convenient drain plug
- Waterproof electronics
- 24 in (609.6mm)
- Motor Size:
- 2.4GHz Transmitter, 2-Channel
- Speed Control:
- Hull Material:
- Trim Scheme Colors:
- Red with black
- Prop Size:
- 1.34 x 2.06 in (34 x 52mm)
- Hull Type:
- (1) 7.4v 30C+ LiPo or (1) 11.1v 30C+ LiPo
- Drive System:
- Experience Level:
- Recommended Environment:
- Assembly Time:
- Less than 1 Hour
- Is Assembly Required:
Titanic sinks At 2:20 a.m. on April 15, 1912, the British ocean liner Titanic sinks into the North Atlantic Ocean about 400 miles south of Newfoundland, Canada. The massive ship, which carried 2,200 passengers and crew, had struck an iceberg two and half hours before. On April 10, the RMS Titanic, one of the largest and most luxurious ocean liners ever built, departed Southampton, England, on its maiden voyage across the Atlantic Ocean. The Titanic was designed by the Irish shipbuilder William Pirrie and built in Belfast, and was thought to be the world’s fastest ship. It spanned 883 feet from stern to bow, and its hull was divided into 16 compartments that were presumed to be watertight. Because four of these compartments could be flooded without causing a critical loss of buoyancy, the Titanic was considered unsinkable. While leaving port, the ship came within a couple of feet of the steamer New York but passed safely by, causing a general sigh of relief from the passengers massed on the Titanic‘s decks. On its first journey across the highly competitive Atlantic ferry route, the ship carried some 2,200 passengers and crew. After stopping at Cherbourg, France, and Queenstown, Ireland, to pick up some final passengers, the massive vessel set out at full speed for New York City. However, just before midnight on April 14, the RMS Titanic failed to divert its course from an iceberg and ruptured at least five of its hull compartments. These compartments filled with water and pulled down the bow of the ship. Because the Titanic‘s compartments were not capped at the top, water from the ruptured compartments filled each succeeding compartment, causing the bow to sink and the stern to be raised up to an almost vertical position above the water. Then the Titanic broke in half, and, at about 2:20 a.m. on April 15, stern and bow sank to the ocean floor.
Because of a shortage of lifeboats and the lack of satisfactory emergency procedures, more than 1,500 people went down in the sinking ship or froze to death in the icy North Atlantic waters. Most of the 700 or so survivors were women and children. A number of notable American and British citizens died in the tragedy, including the noted British journalist William Thomas Stead and heirs to the Straus, Astor, and Guggenheim fortunes.
One hour and 20 minutes after Titanic went down, the Cunard liner Carpathia arrived. The survivors in the lifeboats were brought aboard, and a handful of others were pulled out of the water. It was later discovered that the Leyland liner Californian had been less than 20 miles away at the time of the accident but had failed to hear the Titanic‘s distress signals because its radio operator was off duty.
Announcement of details of the tragedy led to outrage on both sides of the Atlantic. In the disaster’s aftermath, the first International Convention for Safety of Life at Sea was held in 1913. Rules were adopted requiring that every ship have lifeboat space for each person on board, and that lifeboat drills be held. An International Ice Patrol was established to monitor icebergs in the North Atlantic shipping lanes. It was also required that ships maintain a 24-hour radio watch.
On September 1, 1985, a joint U.S.-French expedition located the wreck of the Titanic lying on the ocean floor at a depth of about 13,000 feet. The ship was explored by manned and unmanned submersibles, which shed new light on the details of its sinking.
REMOTE CONTROLLED VERSION SOLD FULLY ASSEMBLED Ready for Immediate Display – Not a Model Ship kit Unmatched in elegance, detailing or craftsmanship, these opulent Limited Edition scale model RMS Titanic replicas are the museum-quality crown jewel of our fleet of RMS Titanic models. Enjoy the exquisitely crafted and delicate features abounding upon her decks, the grace and majesty of her carefully rendered lines, and the attention to every detail of this superlative model of history’s most famous ocean liner. Be swept away by the magnificent splendor and timeless allure of these RMS Titanic replicas.72 inch Long x 10 inch Wide x 24 inch High (1:212 scale) Wireless Controller included Built from scratch by master artisans High quality woods include cherry, birch, maple and rosewood Museum Quality features not available in other models or any kit Paint colors precisely matched to those of the RMS Titanic ships All windows and portholes exactly sized and positioned according to the original RMS Titanic construction plans Historical design and detailing of superstructure and hull Open promenade decks visible through superstructure windows Precise superstructure design and detailing Triple propeller design and accurate anchors Metal trussed crane booms with twin cables and pulleys on cargo hooks Detailed, separate lattice grates on all ducts and vents Metal slat deck benches rather than solid carved wood Finely-crafted wire maintenance ladders ascend smokestacks Meticulous painting to accurately match the actual RMS Titanic Amazing Details, including: Lifeboats hung from launching davits Rigging and stay-lines on all… Credits:http://www.history.com/
A guided-missile destroyer is a destroyer designed to launch guided missiles. Many are also equipped to carry out anti-submarines, anti-aircraft, and anti-surface operations. The NATO standard designation for these vessels is DDG. Nations vary in their use of destroyer D designation in their hull pennant numbering, either prefixing, or dropping it altogether. The U.S. Navy has adopted the classification DDG in the American hull classification system. In addition to the guns, a guided-missile destroyer is usually equipped with two large missile magazines, usually in vertical-launch cells. Some guided-missile destroyers contain powerful radar systems, such as the United States’ Aegis Combat System, and may be adopted for use in an anti-missile or ballistic-missile defense role. This is especially true of navies that no longer operate cruisers, as other vessels must be adopted to fill in the gap.
Features: Remote Control,Flashing
Type: Boat & Ship
State of Assembly: Ready-to-Go
Action Time: 25 minutes
Brand Name: SZ star
Age Range: 5-7 Years,8-11 Years,12-15 Years,Grownups,> 8 years old,> 14 years old,> 6 years old
Remote Control: Yes
Design: Aircraft Carrier
Controller Mode: MODE2
Max Speed: 6km / h
Charging Time: 6 hours
Remote Distance: 80 meters
Power Source: Electric
Charging Voltage: 110/220V
Control Channels: 4 Channels
Model Number: TH112 Item Description:Product Name: Destroyer
Model Scale: 1: 275
Maximum speed: 6km / h
Hull Dimensions: 78x21x10cm
Box size: 82x25x18.5cm
Package weight: 2.8kg
Remote distance: 80 meters
Rechargeable Battery: 7.2V 800mAh
Charging time: 6 hours
Time: 25 minutes
Product features: forward, backward, turn left, turn right, lightingItem Package List:
Remote control x1
Rechargeable battery x1
Extreme Power and Speed- The DCB M41 Widebody catamaran, designed by DCB (Dave’s Custom Boats) founder Dave Hemmingson, is the largest model offered in the DCB M-Series. With its precision sculpted design and a pair of Mercury Racing 1350 engines, it speeds across the water at 175mph! Traxxas has faithfully captured the incredible looks and performance of the DCB M41 in a detailed scale replica that is versatile, fun, and fast. The catamaran hull has been accurately reproduced to deliver the speed, stability and confidence that the full-size M41 is famous for, allowing you to have fun wherever your marine adventures take you. The M41 replica is equally at home blasting across the waves at the lake on a fun run or exploiting its 50+mph speed on a favorite stretch of smooth water. The razor sharp handling lets you carve turns with authority and precision and yet, offers easy control while cruising by the shore.
40″ Widebody Catamaran Hull
Based on the full-size M41 Widebody designed and built by Dave’s Custom Boats, the Traxxas M41 gets its unique, aggressive appearance thanks to its use of a catamaran hull design. Instead of using a monohull with a V-shape design, the catamaran uses two parallel hulls of equal size. This hull design offers more than a different visual presentation; the catamaran offers a wider stance on the water for increased stability and less hydrodynamic resistance. This also lets the M41 use less energy to propel itself across the water making it incredibly fast. The M41 gets on plane almost immediately, letting you get to the fun faster—to the tune of 50+ mph on 6S LiPo power. Big Boat, Big Fun
The M41 is a water-roosting speed demon that’s also a work of art. At just over 40 inches (1 meter) long, the M41 has a commanding presence just floating in the water. Crack open the throttle and the fun begins! The M41’s size and design give it the versatility to work well in a wide range of conditions. The M41 is stable and easy to control whether blasting across the waves in a big lake, cruising past the shoreline, or testing it’s 50mph top speed on a smooth pond. Rigid Internal Structure
A unique feature of the M41 is its rigid internal structure with removeable electronics tray and motor mount. The VXL-6s electronic speed control, waterproof receiver box, and powerful 2056 high-torque steering servo are all bolted securely to the tray. The motor is attached independently to a motor mount that increases the rigidity of the hull. In just a few quick minutes, the electronics can be removed for maintenance. The internal structure includes an integrated reinforced transom to provide a solid mounting surface for the control and drive systems. In all the M41 delivers the ruggedness and reliability needed for all-day fun, run after run. DCB M41 Detailed Cockpit
Traxxas faithfully reproduced the M41’s artfully sculpted cockpit with an acute attention to detail, from the gauges and speakers to the steering wheel and seats. The detailed cockpit flows with the rest of the boat to become a complete work of high-performance art. Flex Cable Drive System
The M41 features an efficient and reliable flex cable drive system that is securely mounted to the internal structure. This unique installation provides easy access to the various driveline components for quick maintenance or upgrades. Quick Release Flex Cable
Some boats rely on set screws to pinch the flex shaft in place. Set screws are prone to loosening and can damage the flex shaft—that’s not the Traxxas way. The M41 features a clamping collet that holds the flex cable tightly and centers it perfectly with the motor’s output shaft for the smoothest operation possible. This design eliminates the usual set screws that can strip, come apart, or damage the flex cable. When it’s time for maintenance, the collet releases quickly with a twist of the included precision wrench. Once loosened, the prop and flex cable simply slide out. Reinstallation is just as fast, making it easy to keep your M41 in peak running condition. High-Performance Prop
The M41 is equipped with a surface-piercing prop that has been optimized to get the hull on plane as quickly as possible without cavitation. The prop is made of a molded composite construction that is lightweight and tough, with no balancing or sharpening needed. High-Strength Aluminum Hardware
For efficient power transfer and razor-sharp handling, the M41 is equipped with rigid drive hardware and a flex-free transom. These components allow you to experience every ounce of extreme brushless horsepower and performance. The rudder, rudder support, and drive strut are extruded and machined from rugged 6000-series aluminum alloy for maximum strength. The pieces are polished and anodized a vivid blue. The rudder also incorporates a pickup that feeds water through the cooling system. Stainless-Steel Trim Tabs
The M41’s dual trim tabs further tune its high-speed performance. The trim tabs are precision die-cut and made of bent form stainless steel to resist corrosion. They help keep the M41 stable during high speed runs.
Waterproof electronics are a must in the marine environment. Traxxas electronics are fully waterproof (not just water resistant). The speed control, servo, and receiver all feature rugged waterproofing protection for dependable operation you can count on. It’s an innovation you’ll find only in Traxxas vehicles. High-Torque Waterproof Servo
M41 demands a powerful steering servo for responsive performance, and Traxxas delivers with the 2056 high-torque servo. O-ring seals make the servo completely waterproof, and there’s steering muscle to spare with 80 oz-in of torque at your command. That’s twice the power of typical “standard” servos. Sealed Watertight Receiver Box
Traxxas’ innovative, ground-breaking waterproof receiver box routes the antenna and servo wires neatly through a special watertight seal (patent pending). To protect the receiver, a custom shaped blue O-ring seals the receiver box. Thanks to the unique design, the receiver can be removed for service and even aftermarket receivers can be used, without losing the sealing properties of the box.
Velineon® 540XL Brushless Motor
- Ultra high-temperature sintered Neodymium magnets
- Optimized for power and efficiency in marine applications
- Consistent, high-power output, run after run
- Low-maintenance design
- Efficient, high-speed ball bearings
- Precision-balanced rotor
- High-efficiency bullet connectors
- 5mm output shaft
- Brilliant blue-anodized finish
- Silicon steel laminations
- Unique high-flow silicone water cooling jacket Velineon® VXL-6s Marine ESC
- Innovative waterproof design
- Integrated water cooling
- Three programmable drive profiles:
- Sport Mode – 100% FWD / 15% REV
- Race Mode – 100% FWD / No REV
- Training Mode – 50% FWD / 15% REV (patented)
- High-efficiency MOSFET transistors
- Built-in two-stage low-voltage detection for LiPo batteries
- Thermal overload protection
- Voltage overload protection
- Locked rotor protection
- Throttle Neutral Setting protection
- LiPo battery packs: 2-6 cells (14.8 to 22.2 volts)
- Traxxas High-Current Connectors (patented) http://
Satisfy your craving for speed and precision with the Voracity™-E 36 Brushless Deep-V. Sitting beneath the sleek trim scheme and canopy of the Voracity™-E Brushless Deep-V you’ll find a water-cooled 120A ESC and a fierce 6-pole 1650Kv 40x82mm brushless motor. This unbeatable combination sits atop a hand-laid Deep-V fiberglass hull that has been optimized for peak performance, even in rough conditions. Push the speed envelope and give the competition a run for their money on the open water today.
- Capable of reaching speeds of 50+ mph
- Includes Spektrum™ 2.4GHz DX2E DSMR Radio System with SR310 Receiver
- Water-cooled Dynamite® marine 120-amp ESC (6S compatible)
- Optimized hull constructed from lightweight fiberglass
- Offset rudder, rudder-mount, and prop strut built of high-strength aluminum
- High torque, waterproof steering servo
- Sealed twist latch canopy system
- Waterproof electronics
- Boat stand included
- 36 in (914.4mm)
- 11 in (279.4mm)
- Motor Size:
- Water-cooled Brushless 40x82mm 1650Kv
- 6.10 lbs (2.8kg)
- 50+ mph with 6S LiPo
- Spektrum DX2E
- Speed Control:
- Dynamite 120A, 2S-6S
- Hull Material:
- Fiberglass composite
- Trim Scheme Colors:
- Metalic Blue, White, Gold
- Prop Size:
- 1.6×1.77 in
- Hull Type:
- (2) 7.4v 5000mAh 50C+ LiPo or (2) 11.1v 5000mAh 50C+ LiPo and EC5 connector
- Drive System:
- Flex Shaft
- Is Assembly Required:
Elevating Action on the Water
There are those products that come to market that get you all riled up as if you were a kid again and what you see on these pages is sure to get you going. As a kid, who didn’t want a sailboat that set off for unexplored lands while you played on the beach? And who didn’t want a plastic boat that braved the rapids of that stream behind your house? Well for big kids into boats, there is a new release that will blow away the wildest inner child’s imagination. The new Aquacraft Rescue 17 Fireboat is the first model boat I’ve ever reviewed with an “interactive” feature, a rotating water cannon capable of shooting a stream of water 10 to 12 feet. It also has lights and a powerful brushless system to propel it to other boats in peril. This boat is sure to get that inner kid in you excited to brave the water as a scaled-down fireboat captain. Let’s Get the Rescue 17 out of the Box
The Rescue 17 arrived in a big shipping box. With an overall length of 38 inches, a large shipping box is required to protect the model. I was impressed by the packaging technique utilized to secure and protect the hull and cabin structure. There’s a considerable amount of packaging engineering required to create the foam padding encasing the hull to prevent damage during shipping. Although I had seen photos of the Rescue 17 on the inside cover of RC BOAT, Volume 4 and the AquaCraft website, I was still very impressed with the attention to scale detail on the hull and cabin structure. The Rescue 17’s amazing amount of detail adds to the realism. The old axiom, “A picture is worth a thousand words,” will provide a visual listing of the scale detailing.
Getting Ready to Put out the Fire
There only a couple of things that need to be done to the Rescue 17 to prepare for operation. The light mast is secured to the top of the cabin with the .15 x 16 screw provided. A dab of CA glue applied to the bottom peg of the antenna will hold it to the light mast. Two “AA” batteries, not provided, are installed in the battery holder inside the cabin to power the light mast. The plug between the battery pack and on/off switch needs connecting. The Tactic TTX 490 4-channel radio requires four “AA” batteries that are also not provided.
Propulsion for the Rescue 17 is provided by an AquaCraft 600 brushed motor powered by a 2200 – 3300 mAh 3S LiPo battery pack. There’s plenty of space in the boat to use a 3S pack with a even a higher mAh rating. The AquaCraft Multi-Controller ESC provides both forward and reverse. Reverse speed is probably around 25 percent of top speed in forward.
It is highly recommended that the pump be primed prior to using the water cannon. There is a direction sheet describing how to prime the pump. This procedure involves removing the water line from the intake tube to the pump, submerging the line in water, and then reattaching the water line. I primed the pump using a fuel bulb filled with water and connected to the intake tube. Squeeze the bulb till water shoots out of the water cannon and the pump is primed. A two-ounce Sullivan Brand fuel bulb is a common hobby shop item. It would also be possible to adapt a cooking baster bulb to shoot water into the pump. Putting out the Fire and/or Candles
Before heading out to run the Rescue 17, I dropped by the local Walgreens to pick up some candles. I have run nitro, gas, electric and sail boat model models over the past 50 years, but the Rescue 17 is the first time I’ve ever operated a model boat capable of extinguishing a fire. Granted, four candles on a piece of foam don’t provide a blazing fire. The candles did, however, provide sufficient flame to test my mini firefighting skills. I quickly discovered attempting to hit the candles with the water cannon wasn’t all that easy. Hitting the candles with the stream of water involved positioning the Rescue 17 the correct distance from the candles, using rudder and speed control and rotating the water cannon to spray across the candles. Racing a 60 mph hydroplane involves less coordination of transmitter inputs than attempting to keep the stream of water from the water cannon on the candles. The slightest amount of breeze greatly influences the positioning of the boat and the direction of the stream of water. At full throttle, the Rescue 17 moves across the water on plane with a great-looking bow wake. It is capable of making tight corners in either direction. However, sweeping corners would be more in keeping with scale operation of a fire boat. Run time with a 2200 mAh 3S LiPo pack was 12 – 15 minutes, running at full speed. Longer run times would be available if the Rescue 17 was stationary or operated slowly while attempting to extinguish candles. After Run Maintenance
A maintenance step not included in the instruction manual was greasing the driveshaft. After approximately one hour of running the Rescue 17, I removed the driveshaft and it needed to have grease applied. It is necessary to remove the rudder to allow removal of the prop shaft. A 1.5mm set screw wrench is required to loosen the set screws on the rudder control arm and shaft coupler. A thin coating of Grim Racer Speed Grease Drive Cable Lube was applied to both the driveshaft and rudder shaft. Wipe any excess grease from the end of the prop shaft to avoid splattering grease on the hull bottom. It was necessary to push the driveshaft slightly downward to insert the shaft back into the coupler. Make certain the flat area on the shaft matches the coupler set screw.
Aftermarket Siren from RAM Models
After numerous trips to the lake with my Rescue 17, it seemed like there was something missing from the experience. That missing something was a siren. Having spent time at hobby shows with Ralph Warner, owner of RAM Radio Control Models, I knew Ralph had a siren in his electronics products inventory. Anytime I call Ralph, I know I’m in for a well-deserved, good natured ribbing. Over the years, Ralph has been very generous, providing me with various items his company sells for the RC aircraft, boat, and car enthusiast. Just a few days after our conversation the RAM Mark II Siren arrived in the mail.
The siren kit consists of a circuit board, on/off micro switch, cardboard material for a speaker box, a 1.5-inch speaker, and directions with diagrams. The only assembly required is constructing the speaker box and gluing the speaker to the box. I painted the box black and attached Velcro to the top. Velcro was also applied to the top of the cabin in back of the middle window. The plastic window was removed to allow the sound to exit the cabin. The on/off micro switch is mounted to a separate servo with double back tape. A Y-harness plugged into the throttle section of the receiver actuates the servo when throttle is applied. I spliced a connector into the wires leading to the speaker which allowed the cabin to be removed without having to remove the speaker.
The siren definitely adds realism when the Rescue 17 is in operation. The RAM Mark II Siren is available from RAM Radio Control Models, RamRCandRamTrack.com, or you can give Ralph a call at (847) 740-8726.
The Last Word
The Rescue 17 is a model boat an entire family could enjoy operating. My wife, Maren, ran the boat for the photo shoot. Maren’s attempt to extinguish the candles proved rather challenging. Steering the boat wide open around the lake proved much easier than dousing candles 10 feet off the bow. The Rescue 17 is visually impressive as a static and operational model fire boat and it can provide a feeling of accomplishment when the only thing moving is the water cannon spraying water on candles. The Rescue 17 is proof you don’t have to be going fast to have fun with a model boat. Credits: http://www.aquacraftmodels.com/, http://www.rcboatmag.com/, Tony Phalen and Words & photos by Jerry Dunlap http://
In over a decade of my Radio Control Boating experience, I have come in contact with many different Fast Electric boats. I can remember the days of charging up my NiCD packs in anticipation of a solid day of boating. Then one day there were an overwhelming amount of people switching to the newer NiMh battery technology. NiMh proved as a solid performer for many years to come. Then to every RC maniacs dreams, LiPo’s were born. This technology in batteries have given RC in general one of the biggest uproar. It allowed a much greater overall power system to be used in any RC imaginable.
Now in the boating community this was very big news. Boats take a tremendous amount of power to drive them at speeds that a typical RC car would travel at. This need for extreme power was the result of intense amounts of drag for any object moving through water. This shouldn’t come as a surprise, when was the last time you changed your disk brakes on a boat? Yep boats don’t have brakes, it feels as if they have permanent anchors.
Before the battery technology and brushless technology that we currently have today, it was difficult to get a Ready to Run boat that traveled faster then 40 km/h. In most cases, when you did have a boat that was in that range of speed, it had to have 2 brushed motors running to the same prop shaft, running off of multiple cells and through an awkward transmission coupling it all together.
It wasn’t until the very first Mainstream boat was introduced that we started seeing some excellent performance numbers that changed the Ready to Run boating market.
The Hull of Fame – Fast Electric
The boat that enters the hull of fame at RadioControlInfo is one that every enthusiast will remember. It was the first mainstream brushless boat that could really benefit from LiPo’s, but many were still using top notch NiMh packs with great success.
Entering the hull of fame is the Aquacraft Supervee 27 RTR.
This Boat sold well before it even hit stores, it was well marketed, well designed, and well built. Many popular features were built in to the boat to ensure that it performed well, we will first start with the hull itself.
Why the Supervee “27” – The Hull of Fame
The Supervee 27 was called the Supervee “27” as the hull length was based around being 27 inches in length. This was an important part of the design as size did matter. A hull under performs if the length is too small, but here’s the catch. The hull also under performs if the boat is sized to long. The under performance changes in each case where a smaller hull will suffer in the handling department and a hull that is sized too large for its power system will suffer in its power and performance department. In order to get this correctly, it takes a precisely selected hull length.
Running Hardware – The Hull of Fame
Blue anodized running hardware was nailed to the back of this hull. The blue colour looks great, and the sizing of each individual component was well determined and affected the handling performance in a very positive way. Now since there’s so many good things about this boat to talk about, let’s hurry up and get over the one issue that this boat suffered from. Water cooling. Yep, that’s it. Now did it matter? Mine ran no problem with the limited amount of water that circulated through the cooling system. The problem was found to be in the aluminum rudder of this hull and Aquacraft corrected this problem in a later version of this hull. Now that we are over that one hurdle, let’s move in to the power system.
Welcome to Brushless Power – The Hull of Fame
Aquacraft dropped in the best power plant that a high volume RTR hull has seen in all of fast electric boating history, making every father shake in his shoes while driving one of these. Pop open the cowl on this boat and you will find a 3/4 horsepower electric motor. It isn’t just any motor, it’s a brushless motor. Brushless motors at the time were relatively new to people and the 3 wires coming out of the can on this motor would confuse many people. I remember the countless threads titled ” which motor wire connects to which ESC wire?” This just goes to show the lack of experience in brushless motors in that particular time. Not many people seen them in boats before, especially RTR boats.
Electronic Speed Control – The Hull of Fame
The component responsible for delivering battery power to the motor was an ESC (Electronic Speed Control) that was still designed around NiMh batteries. The only reason one could not use LiPo’s was because of the lack for an appropriate low voltage cutoff built in to the ESC. If you wanted to run the boat on LiPo’s you would simply have to time your run and bring the hull in after a certain time period or purchase a 3rd party device that would incorporate a lower voltage cutoff. Timing your run is something that I talk about a lot in the build a fast electric boat part of the website, and is something that every boater should be doing in good practice. When performed correctly this is a guaranteed way of preventing any over discharging of the batteries.
Putting it all together – The Hull of Fame
When putting it all together, this hull sold for approximately 300 USD. At this price point it was a very good deal, especially for something this advanced in the boating market. No other Mass produced radio control boat had all of these features combined in to one solid package.
What did you get in terms of performance? Well, quite a handful. The handling characteristics of this 27 inch long hull was very good considering the speed you could achieve. Among many things, cornering felt smooth and predictable. Tight turning radius’ were possible at 70% speed which offered excellent control. This however was only possible during a right hand turn. Due to the nature of racing, our RC models at a race circuit will only make right hand turns and keeping this consistent, the Supervee 27 was only fitted with a right hand turn fin which did not allow for aggressive left hand turning performance. The overall speed of this boat heavily outweighed this small minute obstacle. With 64km/h speeds possible, this boat was a handful. Even with NiMh packs, maintaining over 55km/h was entirely possible.
Paving the Road in to the Future – The Hull of Fame
Aquacraft Models whether they knew it or not paved the road for companies to jump on board the Ready to Run High performance Radio Control boating market. Looking at what we have available now is surely different in terms of variety then it was just 7 or so years ago. Someone had to break the ice and it did not take long until there were Supervee’s buzzing around the lakes and ponds right after that ice starts to separate. Credits: Ryan http://www.radiocontrolinfo.com/ http://
Radio controlled vehicles/craft can be fairly cleanly divided into two categories, toy and hobby-level. The toy type are what most people think of when you mention “RC” — buy-and-drive playthings that you can purchase from a toy or electronics store. These are made strictly for the sake of fun. Then there are the more sophisticated and capable models targeted towards hobbyists who want to go faster, tinker with settings and upgrades, and perhaps participate in one of the many levels of established competitive events. Neither class of RC is necessarily “better” — they each have their positive and negative qualities. However, when you’re first starting out, it’s very worthwhile to choose which way you want to go up front, long before you pull out your credit card. This article presents the most important facts that can help you make an informed decision.
Toy R/C cars & trucks that you can buy at places like Toys R Us or Walmart start at $20-25 USD, and the most extreme ones top out around $150. Toy R/C planes start at around $30. When you step up to the hobby level, you’ll be hard pressed to find something complete for under $130. It’s very easy to spend $400-500 on a 1/10th scale car or truck that will last awhile, and a fully upgraded rig can easily shoot up to $2,000-3,000 USD.
In most cases, there’s really no comparison between the performance of toy and hobby-level RCs. Most toy cars & trucks will go anywhere from 5mph to 15mph, with the fastest few doing 20-24mph. Hobby-level RCs generally start at 15-25mph for electrics and 25-35mph for nitro versions. You can get monster trucks that will do over 40mph out of the box, and low-slung street cars that will do over 60 with no upgrades or modifications. In planes, the toys generally go around 5-15mph, while there are hobby-class craft that will do 30, 50, even 80mph in factory stock form. The most extreme speed differences are in boats. The toys often putt and crawl along at 1-5mph, while the hottest hobby-level racing boats will skim the surface at over 100mph
Mostly because they’re slow, toy RCs tend to handle more abuse than their more expensive cousins. The most common things to break are bumpers and body trim. The land and water-borne vehicles are built with a lot more material than is necessary, while aircraft tend to be constructed of foam and flexible plastics that bounce back after being bent. However…
When they break…
Repairing a toy RC is sometimes not worth the time & effort. Nearly all use multifunction circuit boards that combine several major functions, so if something goes electrically wrong, you have to change out the whole thing. Most manufacturers don’t have a factory service program, so you have to do the work yourself. Many don’t even offer a way to order new parts. Nikko is a notable exception. You can call them, tell them exactly what vehicle you have, describe the problem, and order precisely the part(s) you need. Many RC’s available at Radio Shack are actually from Nikko and are covered by this same level of support, with the additional convenience of being able to go back to the store and special-order your parts in person.
Fixing hobby-level RCs is, in most cases, a completely different affair. You can disassemble anything yourself. With most popular brands there are manuals and exploded views. There are service departments that handle returns of defective components. Electronics are, with rare exception, separated by function so that you don’t have to change your speed controller if your radio receiver crystal goes bad. Parts are available at brick-and-mortar hobby shops and dozens of trusted, popular web sites. There are online forums (message boards) where you can ask other hobbyists for advice and learn from their experience.
These days, ever more toy RCs have upgrades available for purchase from the original manufacturer, particularly amongst the smaller “micro” cars and trucks. These upgrades can range from different body kits to stickier tires to faster motors. They’re generally very easy to install, requiring at most a small screwdriver (which is often included) and 15 minutes, and can dramatically change the look or performance of the vehicle. They’re also great fun to install and let the owner add a bit of their own personality.
The most popular hobby RCs may have literally hundreds of upgrades available from many different aftermarket sources (companies other than the original manufacturer). Among the available upgrades may be anything from scale-realistic wheels to anodized aluminum struts in various colors to larger motors/engines to total conversion kits that fundamentally change the vehicle. Many hobby-level RC parts are reusable from one vehicle to another, especially electronic components and motors/engines. Popular RC models come with the support of other owners nationwide or around the world who share their experiences, tips, and home-grown modifications freely on the Internet.
Toy radio systems traditionally give you forward/reverse (or up/down) and left/right direction control. A growing number of cars & trucks these days now have “digital proportional” steering to boot, which gives you a number of steps between neutral and full turning, depending upon how far you turn the wheel or push the stick on the radio transmitter. Some, though, only let you go straight forward or to turn one pre-set direction in reverse. Toy helicopters are what you have to watch out for the most, as these sometimes give you only one axis of control — go straight up, or come straight down. Most toy RC’s are still only available on two frequencies (e.g., 27mhz and 49mhz in the US), with a few now offering 3 to 6 possibilities. This limits the number of vehicles that can run at one time, but more unfortunately it reduces the possibility of even being able to run two random vehicles together.
Hobby-class radio systems give you 64 to 256 (or more) steps of control in each direction for what feels like perfectly smooth turning & throttle control. These systems can also be easily changed between anywhere from 6 to 30 different frequencies, so even if the one person you want to race against or fly with has an absolutely identical radio setup, for around $20 and with a one-minute part swap, you’re both in the clear. Still better, the most recent generation of radio systems, while expensive, operate on an extremely high frequency and use small computer chips to automatically search for and lock onto an open channel, ensuring that you’ll never have a frequency conflict.
Toy RCs can be raced between siblings or friends around the neighborhood, but there’s generally no sanctioned racing. Hobby-level RCs are raced around the world in local, regional, national, and even international events, even including multi-track tours.
When all is said and done, the purchase decision between toy & hobby-level RCs should always come down to who the purchase is being made for. You don’t want to buy a $390, 45mph nitro-powered car for a 6-year-old. Likewise, a 16-year-old who wants to get into RC racing for sport wouldn’t be well-served by a $39 toy. What’s really interesting is the 26-year-old with a $25 micro-sized monster truck who would derive hours of fun from chasing his/her cat around the kitchen floor or gingerly driving around a makeshift desktop obstacle course during lunchtime at work. Before you buy an RC, know who you’re buying it for and do a little research. That extra time spent up front could make the difference between tremendous fun and awkward disappointment. Credits: http://www.beginningrc.com/ http://
A Basic Guide to Wind-Powered Boating – For anyone who might be interested in RC sailing it can sometimes be difficult to determine such things as what kind of sailboat to start out with, how to set it up and then how to best enjoy it on the water. Only a small percentage of hobby dealers are RC sailing savvy; so, this article will focus-on giving the novice sailor all of the information required to choose his/her’s first wind-powered marine craft.
Since RC sail craft are available in many shapes that feature different mast/keel layouts, the beginner will need to first figure-out what size yacht will fit his/her lifestyle. If you have a small vehicle and limited storage space at home, a 20 to 30-inch long hull with an easily detachable mast/sails and a detachable lower keel may best suit your needs. If you choose a larger hull with an equally long mast and keel, it will take-up a lot more vehicle trunk volume; plus, more pre-sail assembly at the lake. Now if your local sailing location has any amount of submerged vegetation, a hull with a shorter-length lower keel will help prevent any weed buildup problems on the underside of the boat. As for the mast/sail layouts available, most kit/RTR boats use a two-piece mast to ease transport and the lower keel mounts in a recess in the hull bottom and it’s retained by a single thumb nut on the deck of the hull. KIT VS. RTR
Until recently the only way to start out in RC sailing would involve building a kit boat made-up from either a wood, fiberglass or molded plastic hull. Today both plastic and fiberglass RTR yachts are commonplace; so, you can now choose between constructing your first sail craft from a kit or by going with an almost-ready-to-run sailboat. If you’ve had some previous RC car/aircraft experience and have enough workspace, a sailboat kit from such companies as Victor Model Products, Thunder Tiger, Kyosho and Graupner can be built using regular hobby tools, adhesives and paints. To complete the majority of these kits you’ll only need to roundup a stick-style, two-channel surface radio with two servos, one of which will need to be a high-torque model to control the movement of the jib/main sails on the mast.In the event you decide to go with a RTR sailboat, Pro Boat, AquaCraft and several of the kit makers listed above all sell preassembled yachts that are suitable for the novice sailor. In most cases, these RTR boats come from their boxes with only the need to install the pre-rigged mast and sails, attach the keel unit and assemble the hull’s support stand. Adding some batteries to the boat’s radio system will finish-up the yacht’s basic buildup as you can then check/trim the rudder and sail movements on the prepped hull. Once rigged at lakeside, you’ll want to make sure that all of the vessel’s mast and sail control lines are properly attached and tensioned as indicated in the owner’s manual. Then make a quick range check of the powered-up radio system to make sure that the sails and rudder run through their full range of motions. At this juncture you can launch your new sailboat and the fun of learning how to use the wind to “power” your hull can begin. A typical yacht’s onboard radio compartment will contain two servos, one of which will only need to be a regular-output unit for rudder control while the other will be a more high-torque servo to properly manage the movement of the sails. First runs: Depending on the wind’s direction across the water you’ll find that by letting out the sails (moving the left stick on the transmitter upwards) will “catch” the air and this is what’s called running downwind or with the wind. To sail in the opposite direction (towards the wind) you’ll have to steer the hull at an angle to the air which is “tacking” and this technique will have less sail extension than the downwind transmitter stick settings. If you steer the boat’s bow directly into the wind it’ll likely just sit there which is to put the yacht “in irons” and the sailor will have to let the bow swing to one side to again get air in the sails. An important factor to sailing in either wind condition is that you must have enough forward hull speed to maintain the flow of water past the rudder blade as this will allow you to turn the hull whenever needed. It will take some time to master the balance between wind speed, sail settings and hull angles to the wind; but, in only a short time the novice will be able to maneuver his/her yacht no matter which direction the air is moving. Should you decide to put your yacht in competition, many sailboat clubs include kit and RTR hull classes in their race programs and with their sometimes tight rule packages you’ll have close racing like this in your future. Sail support: Like all RC activities model sailing is more fun with a group of boaters and it’s not hard to locate other sailing enthusiasts that might reside near your home. The American Model Yachting Association’s website features a nice club directory to help you pinpoint and contact fellow sailors in your area and you can also use the site to help look for any yacht hardware or racing rules that apply to your brand boat. Custom sails, servos, etc. are all found in the suppliers listing while the rules guidelines section will tell just what modifications on your hull should you decide to try your hand at sailboat racing. Many current RTR and kitted sailing hulls regularly compete throughout the country and the sport sailor can learn a lot of useful running tips from those who race the very same sail craft as the one bought by the beginner. The adaptability of most RC yachts make them fun because both the sport and competitive sailor alike can upgrade their hull’s setup to improve the boat’s on water performance and do it for only a small outlay from their RC budget. When running your boat against the wind, moving the left stick downward on the transmitter will move the sails closer to the center of the hull and by combining this action with running the vessel sideways to the wind you’ll “tack” the sailboat until you’re ready to swing downwind again.
• Always apply a drop of CA glue to each rigging cord knot to prevent any mast/sail spillage in breezy conditions.
• When rigging the hull lakeside, keep the boat out of direct winds or simply lay it on the grass to avoid a blow over.
• Remember, a setup sailboat doesn’t like to be anywhere near a running ceiling fan.
• Braided fishing line (with the same outside diameter) can be used to repair/replace any mast or sail lines.
• Be sure to take a folding chair to the lake because the average yacht can sail for a minimum of two hours.
• Since most of a sailboat’s weight is in the keel, carrying it by the lower keel will be the most stress-free way to launch/retrieve it at the lake. WRAP UP
Equally suited to anyone looking for a quiet way to unwind from work or to experience a new style of RC boat racing, today’s selection of RTR/kit yachts can easily fit the requirements of the first-time sailor. Capable of conforming to any boater’s storage, transport and local sailing conditions a RC sail craft will only demand a simple cleanup and battery recharging between trips to the lake to enjoy some more wind-driven boating fun.A regular two-stick surface transmitter is used to control sailboats with the left stick being used for sail movement while the right stick sends commands to the hull’s rudder blade. Credits: Tony Phalen and http://www.rcboatmag.com/ http:// http://