Tagged: RC Car/Truck Batteries

SCX10 II™ 2000 Jeep® Cherokee 1/10th Scale Electric 4WD

SCX10 II™ 2000 Jeep® Cherokee 1/10th Scale Electric 4WD                                                            2005 marked the birth of the Axial brand, and shortly after, thoughts about the first SCX10 began, with development wrapping up in 2008. The SCX10 was introduced to the world as a builders kit, paving the way, or better yet, raising the bar for a new generation of scale trail enthusiasts. Previously, hobbyists had to “scratch build” a rig which presented a lot of technical hurdles to overcome. The SCX10 kit gave these “artists” time to focus their attention on other things like personalization and visual customization by removing the issues scratch-built scale rigs presented. And, it wasn’t just as a great kit to build, it was also a very capable driving machine, making it the de facto scale rig the world over. The SCX10 chassis platform provided all the technical attributes as well as scale looks with its signature all-metal twin c-channel frame, solid performing transmission and axles that provided enough realism with capabilities to match.                                                 With the SCX10 II, we’ve kept essence of the SCX10 there with all-metal twin c-channel frame rails, but that’s only 2% of the 98% of a completely new design. Scale AR44 high pinion axles, a chassis mounted servo (CMS), re-designed transmission, front mounted battery tray, all aluminum suspension links, and a properly designed suspension for nearly zero bump steer. These are just a few of the features built into the all new SCX10 II.  

The original AX10 axle was developed in 2007 for Axial’s first kit, the AX90001 Axial AX10 Scorpion RC Comp 10 – 1/10th Scale Rock Crawler – Electric Kit. In 2008, the AX10 axle was used in the SCX10 chassis, which paved the way for the scale trail scene.

While developing the next iteration of axles such as the AR60, we started thinking about what kind of axle would be more suited for the future of the SCX10. Our design of a new axle needed to feature three key points. First, we wanted the axle housing to visually quench the thirst of scale enthusiasts. Second, we needed to create a gear set with the technical attributes to overcome the torque twist that is often associated with smaller gear sets. Third, the axle itself needed to be durable.

After seven years of utilizing the original AX10 axle and two years of development, Axial is proud to introduce the industry’s first high pinion gear set in our newly developed AR44 axle! The next chapter of the Axial SCX10 begins with true technological engineering and scale realism!                                                   

In 2008, the AX10™ axle was used in the launch of the SCX10™ chassis platform. While developing the next iteration of axles such as the AR60, the thought process began on what kind of axle would be best for the future of the SCX10™. Axial’s development of a new axle needed to feature three key design points. First, an axle housing to visually quench the thirst of scale enthusiasts. Second, a gear set with the technical attributes to overcome the torque twist often associated with smaller gear sets. Third, the axle itself needed to retain the durability associated with the SCX10™, despite being delivered in a smaller axle housing. After seven years of utilizing the original AX10™ axle and two years of development, Axial is proud to introduce our newly developed AR44 axle with the industry’s first high pinion gear set. The next chapter of the Axial SCX10™ begins with scale realism backed with true technological development!

• High pinion gears for added ground clearance & better driveshaft angles
• The high pinion design allows increased gear surface contact for increased durability
• Larger load bearings used around the gear set to reduce flex and create a stronger drivetrain
• Single piece axle housing for added strength
• 1-piece all-metal locker front and rear
• Small pumpkin for increased clearance and a more realistic, scale look
• Bolt on link mounts
• Knuckle carriers and straight axle adapters have a better mounting system with 10-degree increment adjustments
• Optimized gear ratio – 3.75 compared to 2.92 previously. This reduces torque twist which is typically seen with other small pumpkin axle designs                                                                                                                  KINGPIN ANGLE
The AR44 axle was designed for both aesthetics and functionality. To improve upon the older AX10 axle, we designed the steering components with an 8 degree kingpin angle which results in a positive scrub radius. Making this change to the pivot point means less tire scrub for steering efficiency and less load on the steering servo.

• 8 degree kingpin angle
• Improved scrub radius over the AX10 axle                                                                                                                 AR44 UNIVERSAL AXLE SET
Universal joint axles allow up to 45 degrees of steering and provide smoother action for a higher performing, efficient drivetrain.

• Up to 45 degrees of steering
• Smooth action for an efficient drivetrain
• Compact yet durable design
• Hardened steel construction                                                                                                                                          SCX10 II™ TRANSMISSION
Scale looks on the outside, genuine Axial gears on the inside! The SCX10™ transmission received a design makeover with special attention paid towards aesthetics by mimicking a real transmission with a bell housing, oil pan and a 4X4 transfer case! And that’s just the beginning. By sitting the transfer case lower into the chassis and centering the driveshafts with the axle input housings, Axial has created a more efficient driveline with better driveshaft angles which puts less stress on moving parts. Better driveshaft angles coupled with hi-pinion axles IS scale realism backed with performance. Also includes full set of ball bearings and all metal internal gears for strength and durability.

• Transfer case design helps keep the driveshafts centered and as low as possible in the chassis
• Final drive ratio range 33.69 – 54.15 with available spur – pinion gear combinations
• Comes with 56T spur gear and 15T pinion / 32-pitch for durability
• All metal internal gears for strength and durability
• Final drive ratio (FDR) 40.44 with a range from 33.69 – 54.15 – Original SCX10 was 33.06
• Scale looks mimics a full size transmission and transfer case                                                                                  CHASSIS MOUNTED SERVO (CMS)
Scale matters, but so does geometry! In pursuit of scale looks, we’ve moved the servo off the top of the axle and onto the chassis, just as a full size truck has its steering box located on the frame. But with this seemingly simple action comes a complexity of suspension hurdles to overcome – one of which is bump steer. The undesirable steering is caused by bumps interacting with improper length or angle of suspension and steering links. We made it our mission to design the front suspension in such a way that it eliminates or comes as close as possible to zero bump steer, to help give you the best driving experience possible.

• Scale looks with proper suspension geometry
• Anodized aluminum links included w/ M4 rod ends
• Adjustable servo mounting system allows for a wide range of servos to be used
• Properly designed suspension for nearly zero bump steer                                                                                                                                                           ALL ALUMINUM SUSPENSION LINKS
The suspension geometry utilizes a 4-Link design for the rear which is optimized to reduce axle steer and torque twist. It also helps with steep off-camber climbs by having the proper amount of anti-squat and roll characteristics. The 4-Link system also aids against suspension wrap-up in high power applications.

• All links are metal including the steering
• Custom tapered center – flared ends design
• Large M4 rod ends
• Grey anodized aluminum                                                                                                                                              ADJUSTABLE WHEELBASE
This chassis is designed at 12.3” wheelbase length, but is easily adjusted to either a 11.4” or 12.0” wheelbase (optional link kits sold separately). Axial designed the chassis so that all the wheelbase adjustability happens out back without sacrificing front-end suspension geometry. Simple removal and installation of the suspension links and changing the drive shaft length allows an easier way to adjust the wheelbase.

• Wheelbase adjustment is easily done in the rear end without affecting the steering geometry and maintaining zero bump steer.
• Adjustable wheelbase (11.4”/ 12.0” / 12.3”) (optional link kits sold separately)
• 4 link rear
• 12.3” wheelbase

The realistic high strength c-channel chassis frame is made of durable steel with cross bracing for reinforcement and is held together with all hex hardware. Realistic looking frame and cross braces improve chassis rigidity (torsional stiffness). Realistic shock hoops with multiple shock mounting positions allows you to adjust your suspension for maximum performance. The simplified design makes maintenance and assembly quick and easy. The contoured skid plate significantly reduces hang-ups on terrain. Compared to the previous design, additional holes have been added to the rear portion of the frame rails for making wheelbase adjustments.                                                                                                     JCR OFFROAD VANGUARD BUMPERS
Scale front and rear bumpers licensed by JCR Offroad.

• Rear mount has been extended and stiffer plastics chosen to help limit the typical sag seen in plastic bumpers
• Lenses included for light locations on bumpers
• Rear tow hitch included for added scale appearance                                                                            ADJUSTABLE BATTERY TRAY
The new adjustable battery tray is now relocated lower and further forward for better weight distribution and center of gravity (COG).

• Adjustable tray that prevents the battery from coming loose or shifting while driving
• Posts are included to fine tune the fit based on the battery you choose
• Easy access for quicker battery changes
• Can accommodate batteries up to 32x44x147mm (3S 5,000 mAh)                                                                                                                  1.9 BFGOODRICH ALL-TERRAIN T/A® KO2 TIRES – R35
What lies between the dirt and metal are the tires – your connection to the trail below. When it comes to tough terrain, adventure seekers reach for BFGoodrich All-Terrain T/A® KO2 tires for their dependability on the roughest backroads.

• Officially licensed by BFGoodrich
• 4.65” x 1.65” / 1.9 (118mm x 42.5mm)
• R35 compound

BFGoodrich® Tires and All-Terrain T/A® KO2 Trademarks are used under License from Michelin                                                                                                                                                                                                                                       1.9 METHOD MESH WHEELS
In an industry that’s all about the latest and greatest, while taking advantage of styling trends, sometimes the ‘less is more’ approach is quite refreshing and the mesh wheel offers just that. Clean, simple and METHOD STRONG! These officially licensed METHOD Mesh Wheels are replicated in true form for durability and a clean line look.                              ICON ALUMINUM SHOCKS
Fully licensed Icon Vehicle Dynamics™ shocks feature clear coated polished aluminum bodies, complete with aluminum faux reservoirs. The main body of the shock is threaded for quick ride height adjustments and pre-load tuning ability. Like their full size counterparts these shocks are completely rebuildable, tunable and offer consistent handling all while adding some of that Icon bling to your SCX10™ chassis.

• 61-90mm Aluminum Shock Set with 7mm piston                                                                                                                                                    WATERPROOF RECEIVER BOX / ESC TRAY
Three different silicone seals are included, one for the antenna, one for the servo wires (includes three slots for three channels), and one that acts as a gasket for the receiver box cover. No more stress when running in mud, water, or snow!

• Waterproof receiver box located on the side plates allows easy access and low center of gravity
• Clean mounting surface for your ESC is large enough to accommodate up to 50x40mm footprint                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      WIRE ROUTING
Wire routing has been thoroughly thought through to help keep your chassis layout looking clean. In addition to including wire clips/guides, there has been a channel created that runs the length of the chassis so you can run additional wires hidden inside the c-channel frame.

• Optional mounting points and wire routing for a chassis mounted servo winch and 2 speed shift servo                                                                                                                                                                                                                      WB8 HD WILDBOAR™ DRIVESHAFTS
WB8 HD Wildboar™ front and rear driveshafts feature an updated design with a larger diameter cross pin (2x11mm) along with an M4 Screw Shaft (2mm hex drive) for added strength. A center splined slider floats between each end and features added material which reduces flex and fatigue.

• 3-piece driveshaft with strengthened slider-floater tube
• Increased surface at the connection between the ball joints and output shaft tubes
• 2x11mm cross pin adds 25% more surface area providing more strength for the ball joint
• Captured cross pin design eliminates older set screw design for more durability/easy maintenance
• Adjustable length driveline parts included in box                                                                                                                                                  DUAL SLIPPER CLUTCH
Our dual slipper design uses a pad on each side of the spur gear for added surface area. This allows for more precise tuning and holding power. The spur gear features strong, 32 pitch gearing for high torque applications.

• Slipper design uses a pad on each side of the spur gear for added surface contact area
• More precise tuning and holding power
• Strong 32P gear pitch for high torque applications                                                                               JEEP® XJ BODY
Throughout the rich history surrounding the Jeep® brand, there have been several influential vehicles hailing from the seven-slot stable, one of which is the Jeep® Cherokee (XJ). Possibly considered as the dawn of the modern SUV, the XJ was first presented 1984 as one of the first small SUV’s introduced into the American market, which carried on until 2001. During its 17yr production run, the XJ was built on several continents for world wide exposure, offered in either a 2-door or 4-door configuration, available in several different trim levels along with either a 2wd or 4wd drivetrain. Under the hood featured three different engine options consisting of 2.5L I4 AMC (125hp @ 5400rpm and 150lb/ft of torque @ 3250rpm), 4.0L I6 OHC AMC (193hp@4600rpm and 231lb/ft of torque @ 3000rpm), and a Euro spec only turbo diesel I4 OHV (114hp@3900rpm and 221 lb/ft @ 2000rpm). In 97’, the XJ received a facelift that updated design queues focused on aerodynamics, body stiffness, styling as well as the spare tire being relocated from the rear bumper to inside the cab. The stiffer uni-body construction brought forth improvements in noise cancellation and vibrations while aerodynamics improved engine efficiency.

From an off-roading perspective, the XJ has proven to be a relatively inexpensive vehicle for purchase thus making it a value based build option, capable of suiting just about any sort of budget. Its bones are strong thanks to a Quadra-Link suspension system and primarily coming with Dana 35 axles since the beginning, but there was a Dana 44 option between 87’-91’. Don’t let its smaller size fool you, there’s room for four passengers and space for days, making it a great expedition rig for friends and family to tag along.                 Credits: http://www.axialracing.com/


The (almost) COMPLETE Guide to Electric RC Cars

Hey everyone I’m back for one final Instructable…or one of the last at least. I have recently gotten into the hobby of RC cars and at first I didn’t know too much about, well basically everything. I have decided to help everyone else out by sharing everything I have learned over the last year. And by the way, I appreciate positive comments since this is still a work in progress.  car35

Step 1: The Brands                                                                                      These are some of the biggest brands to choose from for buying an rc car. I know there are plenty more but these seem to be the most popular.

Traxxas cars are very fast, durable, and high quality. If you buy one of these, you will very rarely need to replace broken or worn parts. However, these cars and trucks start at about $300 and do not always include a battery pack and charger. To buy visit www.traxxas.com

Out of all of these, Exceed cars are the cheapest, but they often require spare parts and a rather high level of maitenence. I own an exceed, so I can personally tell you to only get an exceed if you do not want to spend a lot of money and you are willing to pay $10 for shipping every time a few pieces break. The cars start at $90 and are most of the parts are good quality. To buy visitwww.nitrorcx.com

HPI cars are not all that popular, mostly because they are as expensive as Traxxas but not as good quality. There is not much I can say about them other than from what I’ve read they have good quality parts and will not need many replacements. To buy visit www.nitrorcx.com or www.hpiracing.com

Tamiya is the classic RC car brand. They’ve been making good cars for more than 30 years. I own the Grasshopper from about 1984 or something but its actually really nice. I have never broken a part on it and I’ve been driving it offroad for a year now. They start around $200 but are reasonably slower than other brands for that price due to the classical “Low-Tech” designs. To buy visit www.tamiya.com

Team Associated
Coming soon

Coming soon

Step 2: The Car Types  car36car37car38car39car40                                                 There are about 5 car types. I am not going to explain too much about each since they seem rather straightforward.

These are your average street cars. They are the fastest and the best on paved, flat surfaces. Do not get this if you are looking to drive in your backyard or want something with more power.

Drift cars are like on-road cars but with slick tires. YOu can slide around turns and still get almost as fast as an on-road car. They are good if regular cars bore you but you like to drive fast. Drifting is hard, however, so be warned.

Buggies are a cross between offroad and onroad cars. They are the second fastest on road but the slowest offroad usually due to their low wheelbase. Buggies are good for those who cant decide what type of car they want, since they can use it for both.

Truggies are also a crossover like buggies, but they are more for the offroad. It basically takes the frame of a Buggy and puts monster truck tires on it. These are the 3rd fastest on road and the 2nd slowest off.

Trucks are your monster trucks. They are amazing offroad but very slow onroad. They may flip a lot when trying to make high speed turns so these are not the best for on road and you should get these if you want to drive in the woods or in the grass the most.

Step 3: Electric or Nitro                                                                           car41car42                                                                  Now that you know the brands and types of rc cars its time to decide if you want to go with electric or nitro. Here are some of the advantages and disadvantages of each.

Less Maintence
Better for at-home use
Cars have faster acceleration in general
Limited run times
need to wait hours to recharge batteries
Brushless motors are expensive

Longer run times
nice sound
Need to buy gas
Smells bad (my opinion)
a little more expensive to buy the car
cars are more complex (more can go wrong)

Step 4: Electric Motors and ESC                                                                                      car43car44       There are two different types of rc motors. Brushed and Brushless. Each motor type has its own kind of ESC (Electronic Speed Controller). Without an esc, your motor would just do nothing or go full throttle when you wanted to drive. Brushed motors are cheap but very ineffecient and lact power. The ESC’s are also cheaper. Brushless motors are efficient, powerful, fast, and last much longer. Brushless motors and ESC’s do not really have an expiration date, while brushed usually last about 6 months to a year. The main visual difference between the two is the brushless is sealed completely and has three wires, while the brushed has ventilation holes and two wires.

Step 5: Brushless upgrades                                                                    car42                                                                MOTOR RATING

brushless motors are labeled with two things, a large number followed by “kv” and a smaller number followed by “t”. Basically, you need to check the ESC for that motor and read up a little. It will tell u what numbers followed by “t” will be good for your use. So if you want it offroad you will want more “t”, but you will get less “kv”. On-road is the opposite.

KV stands for the amount of rotations per minute per volt. So if this basically means the bigger the number, the faster your car will go. Just make sure if you want your car to drive good offroad you get a motor with the correct “t”.

For example, my brushless motor was a 6000kv 5.5t brushless combo. I checked the ESC and it said you need greater than or equal to 5.5t for on road and greater than or equal to 8.5t for offroad. I got an on-road motor so i could go fast (about 45mph). If you wanted to go offroad you could buy the 4000kv 8.5t motor, which goes about 35mph but has more power. If you do not understand something here pm me. I will be glad to help.

Step 6: Electric Car Layout                                                                                                car45car46                       This is the basic layout for exceed 1/10th scale rc cars and trucks. It has all the parts of other brands but the other brands have things in different places..

Step 7: LiPo or Ni-Mh                                                                                batt1batt2                                                                   Most of the time when you buy a car they come with a battery, but some may not. If that happens, you may be faced with this choice, LiPo or Ni-Mh. LiPo battery packs are the batteries of the future and if given the chance, make the investment. For $10 more you can get a battery pack which will give not only longer run times but also more power. They also do not lose their charge over time. Ni-Mh batteries are cheaper and “safer” (LiPo batteries CAN explode if improperly charged) but in the long run they are not worth it. Spend a few extra dollars and save a lot in the long run.

LiPo batteries are rated by two numbers, and Ni-Mh are rated with only one
the mAh of the battery packs is the capacity of the batteries. The larger the better.

Only LiPo’s are rated with “c” which is basically how fast they can deliver the power. Most battery packs are between 20-30c but you can find some that are 5000mAh 50c battery packs (those are VERY expensive; ~$50) or even an 8000mAh 50c battery pack (around $100) but BE CAREFUL!! Make sure you but a battery pack that will fit in your car!! Some battery packs are larger!

Step 8: How to pick the right car.                                                        car38                                                Okay if you are buying an rc car this is how you should pick it out

pick an answer and go to the # in parenthesis. If there is a hyperlink in parenthesis click it and that is the car or cars that fit you best. (Note. I am including 1/10th rc cars only. These are the “Standard” size but feel free to either go smaller (1/16) or larger (up to 1/5)

1. I want to have a family friendly car that i can drive immediatly when i want to (2)
I want a car that is a little faster but dont mind taking more time to prep and costs more (11)

2. I want a durable car and am willing to spend more money (3)
I want a cheap car that may break in the future (7)

3. I want an offroad car (4)
I want an onroad car (6)
I want something inbetween (5)

4. I want a fast car (E-MaxxSlash_VXL, or Stampede_VXL )
I want a slower but cheaper car (Summit,Slash, StampedeE-Maxx, or a Tamiya )

5. I want a fast car (E-Revo_Brushless,Rustler_VXL,Bandit_VXL)
I want a slower but cheaper car (E-Revo, Rustler, Bandit, or a Tamiya)

6. I want a fast car (Get a brushless HPI on-road car or drift car)
I want a slower but cheaper car (Get a brushed HPI on-road car or drift car)

7. I want an offroad car (8)
I want an onroad car (9)
I want something inbetween (10)

8.  I want a fast car (Rally Monster_Pro or Dynamite-Pro)
I want a slower but cheaper car (Rally Monster or Dynamite)

9. I want a fast car (Champion_Pro or Drift_Star_Pro)
I want a slower but cheaper car (Champion or Drift_Star)

10. I want a fast car (Sunfire_Pro)
I want a slower but cheaper car (Sunfire)

11. If you want a nitro car you’re on your own. sorry.

Look I know there are pleanty more choices for each section but I just wanted to give everyone an idea about what the car they want may look like and so on. There are more cars you can buy then I listed so please understand that.

You’re all done. Now go research the the cars that match your style and find out which one to buy. It is smart to research simmilar cars also. Just keep in mind what you will want for the future. I made this mistake and now I have to pay a lot more money to maintain my car.

Step 9: Recommended Accessories and final tips. car47                       I would definintely recommend buying a complete extra set of tires for your car and some CA glue the day and minute you buy your rc car. The tires wear very quick so be prepared. I highly recommend making an investment when you buy your car and get a good quality one. I promise you it will pay off in the long run. I know from experience and I believe that over about a 2-3 year period, the amound of money spent on most cars and spare parts, no matter what the quality, will be about the same. Dont be a cheapskate…unless you are under 18. If you are not sure on the car you want to get there are pleanty of forums out there about the specific car you may want. Please just research before you purchase, I don’t want anyone crying to me because I said they shoud get this car and they hate it.

Step 10: More coming soon!!                                                                                             Credits:http://www.instructables.com/    http://  Shop Amazon – Give the Gift of Amazon Prime

RC General Buying Decisions

veh1Radio controlled vehicles/craft can be fairly cleanly divided into two categories, toy and hobby-level. The toy type are what most people think of when you mention “RC” — buy-and-drive playthings that you can purchase from a toy or electronics store. These are made strictly for the sake of fun. Then there are the more sophisticated and capable models targeted towards hobbyists who want to go faster, tinker with settings and upgrades, and perhaps participate in one of the many levels of established competitive events. Neither class of RC is necessarily “better” — they each have their positive and negative qualities. However, when you’re first starting out, it’s very worthwhile to choose which way you want to go up front, long before you pull out your credit card. This article presents the most important facts that can help you make an informed decision.                                                                                                                                            


Toy R/C cars & trucks that you can buy at places like Toys R Us or Walmart start at $20-25 USD, and the most extreme ones top out around $150. Toy R/C planes start at around $30. When you step up to the hobby level, you’ll be hard pressed to find something complete for under $130. It’s very easy to spend $400-500 on a 1/10th scale car or truck that will last awhile, and a fully upgraded rig can easily shoot up to $2,000-3,000 USD.


In most cases, there’s really no comparison between the performance of toy and hobby-level RCs. Most toy cars & trucks will go anywhere from 5mph to 15mph, with the fastest few doing 20-24mph. Hobby-level RCs generally start at 15-25mph for electrics and 25-35mph for nitro versions. You can get monster trucks that will do over 40mph out of the box, and low-slung street cars that will do over 60 with no upgrades or modifications. In planes, the toys generally go around 5-15mph, while there are hobby-class craft that will do 30, 50, even 80mph in factory stock form. The most extreme speed differences are in boats. The toys often putt and crawl along at 1-5mph, while the hottest hobby-level racing boats will skim the surface at over 100mph


Mostly because they’re slow, toy RCs tend to handle more abuse than their more expensive cousins. The most common things to break are bumpers and body trim. The land and water-borne vehicles are built with a lot more material than is necessary, while aircraft tend to be constructed of foam and flexible plastics that bounce back after being bent. However…

When they break…

Repairing a toy RC is sometimes not worth the time & effort. Nearly all use multifunction circuit boards that combine several major functions, so if something goes electrically wrong, you have to change out the whole thing. Most manufacturers don’t have a factory service program, so you have to do the work yourself. Many don’t even offer a way to order new parts. Nikko is a notable exception. You can call them, tell them exactly what vehicle you have, describe the problem, and order precisely the part(s) you need. Many RC’s available at Radio Shack are actually from Nikko and are covered by this same level of support, with the additional convenience of being able to go back to the store and special-order your parts in person.

Fixing hobby-level RCs is, in most cases, a completely different affair. You can disassemble anything yourself. With most popular brands there are manuals and exploded views. There are service departments that handle returns of defective components. Electronics are, with rare exception, separated by function so that you don’t have to change your speed controller if your radio receiver crystal goes bad. Parts are available at brick-and-mortar hobby shops and dozens of trusted, popular web sites. There are online forums (message boards) where you can ask other hobbyists for advice and learn from their experience. veh2


These days, ever more toy RCs have upgrades available for purchase from the original manufacturer, particularly amongst the smaller “micro” cars and trucks. These upgrades can range from different body kits to stickier tires to faster motors. They’re generally very easy to install, requiring at most a small screwdriver (which is often included) and 15 minutes, and can dramatically change the look or performance of the vehicle. They’re also great fun to install and let the owner add a bit of their own personality.

The most popular hobby RCs may have literally hundreds of upgrades available from many different aftermarket sources (companies other than the original manufacturer). Among the available upgrades may be anything from scale-realistic wheels to anodized aluminum struts in various colors to larger motors/engines to total conversion kits that fundamentally change the vehicle. Many hobby-level RC parts are reusable from one vehicle to another, especially electronic components and motors/engines. Popular RC models come with the support of other owners nationwide or around the world who share their experiences, tips, and home-grown modifications freely on the Internet.


Toy radio systems traditionally give you forward/reverse (or up/down) and left/right direction control. A growing number of cars & trucks these days now have “digital proportional” steering to boot, which gives you a number of steps between neutral and full turning, depending upon how far you turn the wheel or push the stick on the radio transmitter. Some, though, only let you go straight forward or to turn one pre-set direction in reverse. Toy helicopters are what you have to watch out for the most, as these sometimes give you only one axis of control — go straight up, or come straight down. Most toy RC’s are still only available on two frequencies (e.g., 27mhz and 49mhz in the US), with a few now offering 3 to 6 possibilities. This limits the number of vehicles that can run at one time, but more unfortunately it reduces the possibility of even being able to run two random vehicles together.

Hobby-class radio systems give you 64 to 256 (or more) steps of control in each direction for what feels like perfectly smooth turning & throttle control. These systems can also be easily changed between anywhere from 6 to 30 different frequencies, so even if the one person you want to race against or fly with has an absolutely identical radio setup, for around $20 and with a one-minute part swap, you’re both in the clear. Still better, the most recent generation of radio systems, while expensive, operate on an extremely high frequency and use small computer chips to automatically search for and lock onto an open channel, ensuring that you’ll never have a frequency conflict.


Toy RCs can be raced between siblings or friends around the neighborhood, but there’s generally no sanctioned racing. Hobby-level RCs are raced around the world in local, regional, national, and even international events, even including multi-track tours.


When all is said and done, the purchase decision between toy & hobby-level RCs should always come down to who the purchase is being made for. You don’t want to buy a $390, 45mph nitro-powered car for a 6-year-old. Likewise, a 16-year-old who wants to get into RC racing for sport wouldn’t be well-served by a $39 toy. What’s really interesting is the 26-year-old with a $25 micro-sized monster truck who would derive hours of fun from chasing his/her cat around the kitchen floor or gingerly driving around a makeshift desktop obstacle course during lunchtime at work. Before you buy an RC, know who you’re buying it for and do a little research. That extra time spent up front could make the difference between tremendous fun and awkward disappointment. Credits: http://www.beginningrc.com/ http://

Off-Road RC Car Tuning Guide

Need More Steering?
• Batteries – Move batteries towards the front of the vehicle.
• Front Shock Mounting – Move the lower shock mount towards the outside
• Front Camber Link – Longer camber links increase steering
• Front Ride Height – Lower the front ride height
• Rear Ride Height – Raise rear ride height for more high speed steering
• Rear Shock Mounting – Move upper mount towards outside
• Wheelbase – Lengthen the wheelbase for more steering
• Rear Toe-in – Decrease rear toe-in
• Ackerman – Use less Ackerman for more sensitive steering                                                                               offroad1                                                                                                             Need More Traction?
• Batteries – Move batteries towards the rear of the vehicle
• Rear Ride Height – Lower rear ride height
• Rear Camber – Less camber (0 -1 deg.)
• Camber Link – Longer camber links
• Rear Shock Mounting – Move upper mount towards the inside
• Wheelbase – Shorten the wheelbase
• Rear Toe-in – Increase rear toe-in
• Slipper – Loosen slipper so wheels don’t spin as much                                                                                             offroad2                                                                                                                 Need Better Jumping?
• Shock Oil – If bouncing too much or bottoms out over jumps, use heavier oil
• Shock Pistons – If bottoming out over jumps, use smaller hole pistons
• Rear Shock Mounting – If bottoming out over jumps move upper mount towards he outside
• Battery Position – If nose high during jumps, move battery forward, move rearward if nose is down during jumps
• Weight – Add weight to nose if it’s too high during jumps                                                                                     offroad3                                                                                                                              Need More High Speed Steering?
• Front Toe – More toe-in gives you more steering coming out of the corners
• Front Caster – Less caster gives you more steering exiting corners
• Rear Ride Height – Raise rear ride height for more high speed steering                                                            offroad4                                                                                                                    More Stable Over Rough Tracks?
• Anti-squat – Less anti-squat allows better acceleration on rough tracks
• Rear Camber – More negative camber is more stable on bumpy tracks
• Rear Camber Link – Shorter camber links is more stable on bumpy tracks
• Front Shock Mounting – Move lower shock mount inside for bumpy tracks
• Battery Mounting – Place in the middle for most stable on all tracks                                                                 offroad5                                                                                                                   Credits: rcracingusa.net  http://     

Modifying Your RC Motor

Nine Easy Go-FastMods- It’s no question – the sensation of speed is one of the most popular aspects of radio control. Racers and bashers may differ in many ways when it comes to how they enjoy their favorite hobby, but they both share their desire for faster acceleration and higher velocity. From cleaning and oiling bearings to installing more horsepower, there are many ways to make your car faster – some without spending any money!

mod1 http:/  I dug deep into the RCCA archives for this gem – nine easy go fast mods. Enjoy the read, then start wrenching – after all, you’ve got races to win…even if they’re just down the street.

Words: Kevin Hetmanski

Who doesn’t like to go fast? Nobody. Who wants to go faster? Everybody! Without spending a lot of time or dough, following these 8 tips will help you add a few more miles per hour and a little more distance between you and the second-fastest guy on the block. Think of them as “speed reading.”


If you remove the carb restricter, you can uncork an extra mph or 2 as well as some snappier acceleration.


Most nitro cars come with unrestricted carbs, but if your carb has a restricter (such as on this Associated GT2 RTR), you can gain a few mph by popping it out. When we tested the GT2 RTR, removing the restricter added 2.7mph and made the throttle punchier, which is great on pavement and other high-grip surfaces but can cause spin outs in low-grip dirt. So, if you pop the restricter, keep it in your toolbox; you may want to put it back in!


Upgrading to LiPo power will save more than 3 ounces of weight and increase voltage for a significant speed boost.


Boosting voltage is an easy, no-mod way to increase the speed of any electric car, provided your speed control can handle the extra juice. If you switch from a 6-cell pack to a 7-cell, you’ll increase voltage from 7.2 to 8.4 volts and have a significant increase in off-the-line punch and top speed. You can get a similar benefit (along with reduced weight and increased run time) by switching to LiPo power. A 2-cell LiPo pack delivers 7.4 volts; that doesn’t seem like a big voltage gain, but it does make a very noticeable difference in performance because the pack is also 3.5 ounces (give or take) lighter than a sub-C pack.


More nitro means more speed-producing power.


More nitro means a bigger boom with each combustion cycle, and that means more speed (or at least you’ll have the power you need to spin a taller gear ratio, and that will mean more speed). For maximum engine life, we suggest that you run 20-percent nitro for regular running, but when it’s time to crush the other guys in the neighborhood, reach for a jug of 30 percent. But be warned, the engine will run hotter.


Drop in a hotter motor, like a 10.5 from Tekin’s Gen2 series, and you can easily add 10mph or more, depending on the motor you’re replacing.


Swapping a Neon’s 4-banger for a big-cube V-8 would be a herculean task in the full-size hot-rodding world, but similar performance gains are as simple as removing two screws on an electric RC car. Most RTRs include an anemic 540 motor that’s good for about 18mph; install a modified motor, and you can easily double that speed; the lower the number of winds, the faster the motor. One caveat: the faster the motor, the greater the strain it will put on your car’s speed control, hence the “motor limit” rating for most speed controls. Check your speed control’s manual, and stick with a motor that has the same number or more winds than the limit.


For the ultimate in friction-fighting, ceramic bearings like these from Acer are the way to go.


Fresh bushings can actually outperform grease-packed ball bearings, but bushings quickly degrade and that costs speed. For maximum velocity, metal-shielded (not rubber-sealed) bearings are best. Most cars already have ball-bearing transmissions, so all you have to do is pop bearings into the hubs. The speed increase won’t be dramatic and will depend on the state of your car’s drivetrain before the install, but you’ll get more than speed: bearings greatly outlast bushings and take the slop out of rotating parts.


Pro-Line’s Road Rage tires (left) will let your truck reach its maximum speed potential on pavement; bar-treads such as those on the Mashers (right) require more power to spin.


Gnarly monster treads are fine for the dirt and grass, but their excessive weight and rolling resistance robs you of speed on pavement. If you trade those treads in for street rubber, your truck will need less power to overcome that weight and rolling resistance, leaving more power for pure speed once you’re geared to take advantage of that power and to compensate for what will likely be smaller-diameter tires.


Don’t be afraid to lean it out! You can always richen it back up if you go too far.


The only thing more amazing than the amount of power a little nitro RC engine can make is how much less power it makes if the needle settings are just a little off. We’ve seen guys give up half their engine performance to bad tuning, typically by running the engine too rich. Lean the high end out by turning it clockwise 1/12 turn (think of it as 5 minutes on the face of a clock), and make a few passes to see if your engine reaches higher rpm (and thus, higher speed). When the engine stutters at full throttle or starts running closer to 300 degrees, it’s too lean; aback it off until the engine sings a clear high note at full throttle with a faint smoke trail from the pipe.


Kevin Hetmanski’s race-prepped Revo is full of weight-saving tricks: graphite chassis, deleted receiver and battery boxes, single high-torque steering servo to replace dual servos.


If you can trim weight from your ride, it won’t need as much power to get up to speed, and that means it can go even faster. Exactly how much weight you can lop off depends on the type of vehicle you have. A burly monster truck with 8 shocks, heavy tires, a reverse-gear servo and other not-essential-for-speed parts can be lightened significantly by removing the superfluous parts, but a racing-style buggy, stadium truck, or touring car might only have a few grams to offer (don’t bother).


When looking for weight savings, go to the wheels and tires first. The old racers’ adage “a pound of rotating weight is like 2 pounds of non-rotating weight” is very true, especially if you have a monster truck with heavy chevron tires!


A set of pinion gears such as these from Robinson Racing will let you match your car’s gearing to its power potential.

All of the tips outlined in this article can increase speed, but to really take advantage of them, proper gearing is essential. Otherwise, you’ll probably see quicker acceleration but little or no increase in top speed, which isn’t necessarily a bad thing, as acceleration wins more races than sheer speed. But when absolute speed is the goal, it’s all about gearing. To understand why, think of your car as a bicycle, and its engine as your legs.


Put your bike in first (the easiest) gear, and you can easily pedal to your maximum rpm. You probably aren’t going very fast, but you can really spin the pedals. A lighter bike, more aerodynamic position, or reduced rolling resistance won’t help you go any faster, since your legs are already going as fast as they can. So you up shift the bike to a taller gear ratio, and you go faster, and you keep up shifting and going faster until the gear ratio is too tall for the strength of your legs to overcome. The same thing is going on in your RC car. Unless your modification increases the motor’s or engine’s rpm, your car won’t go faster. But if you make it more powerful (or free up more power by diverting less to fighting inertia and rolling resistance), your powerplant will be able to turn a taller gear ratio for more speed just like an Olympic cyclist is able to go faster because he has stronger legs to turn a bigger gear on his bicycle.


There are two ways to gear up an RC car for more speed: install a pinion or clutch bell with more teeth or a spur gear with fewer teeth. This will make your car roll farther with each turn of the engine’s crank or the motor’s output shaft and thus increase speed. Try going up two teeth maximum on the clutch bell, or up to four teeth on the pinion gear. Don’t overdo it; if you gear the car too high, you’ll strain the powerplant, and you may actually go slower. Check your manual for suggested gear ratio ranges.                 Credits:    http:// http:// Remote Control Toys on Sale

Know the Different Battery Types for Electric RC Vehicles

Various RC vehicles run on different power sources. Among these, RC cars or boats that run on electricity are the easiest to operate. With electric remote control cars or boats, there is no need for sophisticated technical knowledge or the need for glow plugs or fuel.

The only requirements are to charge the batteries and to ensure correct wiring. That’s pretty much it!

Rechargeable battery packs for RC vehicles can be typically either one of the following: NiCd, NiMH, or Li-Po cells. Following are more information on RC batteries.

Know your batteries

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