Tagged: RC Large Scale

40″ Widebody Catamaran

Extreme Power and Speed-                                                                                                                                  The DCB M41 Widebody catamaran, designed by DCB (Dave’s Custom Boats) founder Dave Hemmingson, is the largest model offered in the DCB M-Series. With its precision sculpted design and a pair of Mercury Racing 1350 engines, it speeds across the water at 175mph! Traxxas has faithfully captured the incredible looks and performance of the DCB M41 in a detailed scale replica that is versatile, fun, and fast. The catamaran hull has been accurately reproduced to deliver the speed, stability and confidence that the full-size M41 is famous for, allowing you to have fun wherever your marine adventures take you. The M41 replica is equally at home blasting across the waves at the lake on a fun run or exploiting its 50+mph speed on a favorite stretch of smooth water. The razor sharp handling lets you carve turns with authority and precision and yet, offers easy control while cruising by the shore.                                                                                                                                  boat1

40″ Widebody Catamaran Hull

Based on the full-size M41 Widebody designed and built by Dave’s Custom Boats, the Traxxas M41 gets its unique, aggressive appearance thanks to its use of a catamaran hull design. Instead of using a monohull with a V-shape design, the catamaran uses two parallel hulls of equal size. This hull design offers more than a different visual presentation; the catamaran offers a wider stance on the water for increased stability and less hydrodynamic resistance. This also lets the M41 use less energy to propel itself across the water making it incredibly fast. The M41 gets on plane almost immediately, letting you get to the fun faster—to the tune of 50+ mph on 6S LiPo power.                                                                            boat3  Big Boat, Big Fun
The M41 is a water-roosting speed demon that’s also a work of art. At just over 40 inches (1 meter) long, the M41 has a commanding presence just floating in the water. Crack open the throttle and the fun begins! The M41’s size and design give it the versatility to work well in a wide range of conditions. The M41 is stable and easy to control whether blasting across the waves in a big lake, cruising past the shoreline, or testing it’s 50mph top speed on a smooth pond.                                                                                 boat4 Rigid Internal Structure
A unique feature of the M41 is its rigid internal structure with removeable electronics tray and motor mount. The VXL-6s electronic speed control, waterproof receiver box, and powerful 2056 high-torque steering servo are all bolted securely to the tray. The motor is attached independently to a motor mount that increases the rigidity of the hull. In just a few quick minutes, the electronics can be removed for maintenance. The internal structure includes an integrated reinforced transom to provide a solid mounting surface for the control and drive systems. In all the M41 delivers the ruggedness and reliability needed for all-day fun, run after run.                                                                                                                              boat5 DCB M41 Detailed Cockpit
Traxxas faithfully reproduced the M41’s artfully sculpted cockpit with an acute attention to detail, from the gauges and speakers to the steering wheel and seats. The detailed cockpit flows with the rest of the boat to become a complete work of high-performance art.                                                                                       boat6 Flex Cable Drive System
The M41 features an efficient and reliable flex cable drive system that is securely mounted to the internal structure. This unique installation provides easy access to the various driveline components for quick maintenance or upgrades.                                                                                                                                                boat7 Quick Release Flex Cable
Some boats rely on set screws to pinch the flex shaft in place. Set screws are prone to loosening and can damage the flex shaft—that’s not the Traxxas way. The M41 features a clamping collet that holds the flex cable tightly and centers it perfectly with the motor’s output shaft for the smoothest operation possible. This design eliminates the usual set screws that can strip, come apart, or damage the flex cable. When it’s time for maintenance, the collet releases quickly with a twist of the included precision wrench. Once loosened, the prop and flex cable simply slide out. Reinstallation is just as fast, making it easy to keep your M41 in peak running condition.                                                                                                                              boat8 High-Performance Prop
The M41 is equipped with a surface-piercing prop that has been optimized to get the hull on plane as quickly as possible without cavitation. The prop is made of a molded composite construction that is lightweight and tough, with no balancing or sharpening needed.                                                                           boat9 High-Strength Aluminum Hardware
For efficient power transfer and razor-sharp handling, the M41 is equipped with rigid drive hardware and a flex-free transom. These components allow you to experience every ounce of extreme brushless horsepower and performance. The rudder, rudder support, and drive strut are extruded and machined from rugged 6000-series aluminum alloy for maximum strength. The pieces are polished and anodized a vivid blue. The rudder also incorporates a pickup that feeds water through the cooling system.                     boat10 Stainless-Steel Trim Tabs
The M41’s dual trim tabs further tune its high-speed performance. The trim tabs are precision die-cut and made of bent form stainless steel to resist corrosion. They help keep the M41 stable during high speed runs.                                                                                                                                                                           boat11

Waterproof Electronics

Waterproof electronics are a must in the marine environment. Traxxas electronics are fully waterproof (not just water resistant). The speed control, servo, and receiver all feature rugged waterproofing protection for dependable operation you can count on. It’s an innovation you’ll find only in Traxxas vehicles.                                                                                                                         boat12 High-Torque Waterproof Servo
M41 demands a powerful steering servo for responsive performance, and Traxxas delivers with the 2056 high-torque servo. O-ring seals make the servo completely waterproof, and there’s steering muscle to spare with 80 oz-in of torque at your command. That’s twice the power of typical “standard” servos.                                                        boat13 Sealed Watertight Receiver Box
Traxxas’ innovative, ground-breaking waterproof receiver box routes the antenna and servo wires neatly through a special watertight seal (patent pending). To protect the receiver, a custom shaped blue O-ring seals the receiver box. Thanks to the unique design, the receiver can be removed for service and even aftermarket receivers can be used, without losing the sealing properties of the box.                                                                                      boat14

Velineon® 540XL Brushless Motor

Fury 15 DF BNF Basic

Known as one of the most famous fighters to never see combat with U.S. forces, the North American FJ-2 Fury was built for the U.S. Navy and flew with the Marines in defense against the MiG-15 threat over Korea during the 1950s. It was a jet powered dog-fighter that pilots loved and it helped to pave the way for modern super-sonic air combat. Borrowing from the success of the very similar F-86H Sabre, the Fury filled a distinctive role in a time when speed was king.                                                                                                         plane30 The E-flite® FJ-2 Fury airplane recreates the famous Navy jet fighter so you can enjoy thrilling jet flight at your local flying field. From the accuracy of the model outline to the efficient EDF system, this FJ-2 delivers stunning scale appearance and rock-solid performance. But the best feature of this Fury is an innovation that full-scale pilots back in the day could only dream about. Built into the included Spektrum™ AR636A receiver is an AS3X® system that’s been specially tuned for this airplane.

The advanced AS3X® (Artificial Stabilization – 3-aXis) system built into the Spektrum™ AR636A 6-channel receiver works behind the scenes to help counter the effects of wind and turbulence by combining 3-axis sensing with exclusively tuned flight control software. As a result, your workload to fly smoothly is significantly reduced so you’ll feel as if you are at the controls of an expertly tuned jet that’s much larger.

Whether you’re an intermediate pilot looking for a performance upgrade or a scale pilot looking for grab-and-go EDF convenience, the E-flite FJ-2 Fury is ideal. All you need to start flying today is the 3200mAh 4S 14.8V Li-Po flight battery a suitable charger and your favorite full-range 4+ channel aircraft transmitter with Spektrum DSM2®/DSMX® technology.

 

Key Features

  • Easy to complete final assembly
  • AS3X® technology delivers rock-solid stability and great handling
  • Durable, lightweight Z-Foam™ construction
  • Authentic outline and scale details
  • Spektrum™ AR636A DSMX® 6-Channel AS3X® sport receiver, installed
  • Powerful 70mm EDF unit features a 15-size, 3700Kv brushless motor
  • 60-amp 14.8V brushless ESC installed
  • Finely tuned ducting delivers a scale appearance
  • Six micro servos installed for aileron, elevator, rudder and nose wheel steering
  • Clear canopy, cockpit details and pilot figure
  • Removable fixed landing gear
  • Removable drop tanks                                                                                                                                        plane31Precise Control
    The Spektrum™ AR636A sport AS3X® receiver delivers rock-solid handling for a realistic jet experience.Efficient Ducting
    The internal ducting is sculpted for maximum efficiency so you get the highest level of scale accuracy and EDF performance.Lightweight and Strong
    Durable Z-Foam™ construction makes it possible to replicate complex airframe detail and keep weight low.Scale Detail
    The cockpit detail and authentic outline are true to the U.S. Navy’s first swept-wing jet.Removable Wheels and Drop-Tanks
    The fixed landing gear and drop tanks can be removed for faster flight performance.Included:
    • Spektrum™ AR636A DSMX® 6-channel AS3X® sport receiver (installed)
    • (6) E-flite® micro servos (installed)
    • 15-size, 3700Kv brushless inrunner motor (installed)
    • 70mm fiber-filled nylon EDF unit with 5-blade rotor (installed)
    • 4S compatible, 60-Amp 14.8V brushless ESC (installed)                                                                            plane32

    Product Specifications

    Wingspan: 36.75 in (933mm)
    Overall Length: 38.75 in (984mm)
    Wing Area: 304 sq in (19.6 sq dm)
    Flying Weight: 3.3 lbs (1.49kg)
    Motor Size: BL15, 3700Kv
    Radio: 5+ Channel DSM2/DSMX Transmitter Required
    Servos: 13g (installed)
    Speed Control : 60A (installed)
    Recommended Battery: 14.8V 4S 3200mAh LiPo
    Flaps: No
    Retracts: No
    Recommended Environment: Outdoor

    Needed to Complete• Full range 4+ channel DSM2®/DSMX compatible aircraft transmitter
    • High-power 3200mAh 4S 14.8V Li-Po battery
    • AC or DC 4S Li-Po battery charger   http://  HobbyTron.com 

Large Scale Helicopters In Action

copter42

Published on Jun 21, 2015

Awesome scale flying from this pilot of his monster Vario 1/4 scale EC 135 Heli and nearly ended in disaster when on the final approach it clipped the ring used by foamy pilots to fly through in a different flying slot!
2.4 metres long approx
2.3 metre rotor span
Weight about 24 to 26 Kg

If you enjoy our videos and would like to support us please consider making a donation toward the improvement of our content at the link below. Thanks !
http://www.patreon.com/EssentialRC

 

copter41Published on Jun 19, 2016

Model: EC-135 ADAC Notarzt Christoph 33
Engine: Jakadofsky Pro Turbine
Take-off weight: 49Kg
Rotor diameter: 3,50m
Pilot: Michael
Flight Style: Scale
Meeting: Modellflugtreffen in Damelang Germany June 2016

copter43

Published on Jun 18, 2016

Model: CH-113 Boeing Vertol Labrador Tandem Helicopter
Rotor diameter: 2x 2,20m
Lenght: 2,25m
Take-off weight: 22,6Kg
Motor: Kontronik Pyro 850-40L
ESC: Kontronik Kosmik 200HV
Taumelscheibenservos: 4 x Futaba BLS175SV
Tandemmischer: bavarianDEMON 3SX
Beleuchtung: Emcotec Aurora LCU V2
Empfänger: Fuataba R6014FS
Puffer-Schaltung: Optipower Ultra Guard
Rotorblätter: Eigenbau
Hauptrotorkopf: 2x SAB HPS3
Akkus: 2x 6s 8000mAh
Scale: 1:6
Pilot: Bernd Fischer / http://www.helifischers.de/
Flight Style: Scale
Meeting: 15. Pöting Turbine Meeting in Kreuztal Littfeld Germany June 2016

Beginner RC Planes – What Makes the Best Beginner RC Plane

What Makes the Best Beginner RC Plane                                                                                                       When getting started in rc flying you’re going to have to make the decision of what’s going to be your very first plane. Being a beginner pilot you are going to want a beginner plane. Let’s take a look at some of the attributes that make a good beginner plane.                                                                                                   1. Electric powered. Electric powered planes are much cheaper and easier to use than gas powered. You turn them on and they are ready to go. Gas powered motors need a special fuel and then you have to tune them. It’s a lot more work. Also electric planes are much cheaper than gas powered. Most beginner electric planes come with everything you need to fly. For a gas powered plane you need to purchase everything separate.
plane23plane24                                                       2. Top Wing design. This is a plane that has the wing on top of the plane. Having the wing on top of the plane gives it more lift. Lift helps keep the plane floating in the air. As a beginner you are going to want a plane that floats by itself, especially if you run into trouble.
plane25                                                                                                              3. Large wingspan. A large wingspan will also add more lift to the plane.

plane26                                                                                                         4. 2 or 3 channels. 2-channel planes allow you to control the up/down and side to side (turning) movement of the plane. A 3-channel will allow you to do the same, but also allows you to control the speed of the motor. This allows you to control the pitch of the plane. A 4-channel plane is too much for a beginner. The 4th channel is used to control the ailerons which are used in more advanced flying.
plane27plane28plane29

5. Anti Crash Technology (ACT). This is not found in very many planes, but if you find one that uses it this technology is great. These planes use sensors to check the direction of the plane. If they sense that the plane is going into a dive they take over control of the plane and adjust its altitude giving you more time to react and avoid a crash.

Following these guidelines will help you find a great beginner rc plane, one that you will enjoy flying for a long time. Good luck and happy flying.

Josh Elkins is an avid rc plane fan and wants to help those who are interested in the hobby. You can find more information about beginner rc planes at www.squidoo.com/BeginnerRcPlanes

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/expert/Josh_Elkins/168881  http:// Shop Amazon – All-New Fire TV, Now with 4K

Short Course Racing Tips—5 Tips For Faster Laps

car29

Anyone with any racing experience will tell you that jumping from class to class isn’t as easy as just selecting a new model on your transmitter and picking up a new truck. And, many people think that because the scale appeal of short course attracts so many newcomers to the hobby that the class is for beginners and thus easy. The point is that short course racing takes just as much skill as any other class and even experienced racers can have a hard time adapting and succeeding. If you want to run at the front of the pack, check out these five tips:

 

1. Momentum

Racing is all about going fast, right? Well, if you’re constantly flying into corners, spraying dirt everywhere and ripping down the straights, you’re doing it wrong. You might feel like you’re going really fast and that may work to some degree with an overpowered truggy, but it’s the slow way to get a short course truck around the track. This is especially true if you’re in the 17.5-turn class. You can get away with a little bit of a heavy-handed driving style with 4WD class short course truck, but it is essential that you drive smoothly.  You should drive like you have an egg strapped to your truck. Drive smoothly and try to keep your truck always rolling.

car31

2. Stay Out of Trouble

I lot of people think short course is the class where it’s OK to beat and bash. Let them think that and let them smash into each other. Just keep your distance and let the action unfold—don’t be a part of it. You’ll lose far less time by slightly hanging back in comparison to getting involved in a wreck. Think about the time you lose when you crash and then have to wait for a corner marshal as compared to when you just ease back a bit and wait for the right time to make a move. We’re talking the difference between ten seconds and a tenth of a second or maybe the difference between first and third.                                             car32

3. Passing vs. Catching

There’s a difference? There very much is a difference between catching someone and passing them, but you’d never know it watching the typical RC race. Most racers just race as fast as they can try to get around people as they catch them. It sounds good, but catching and passing are simply two different acts. When you catch someone think about whether you’re at a good place to pass. Some slow cars can be blown by down the straight, but keep in mind that a phenomenon called target fixation almost always occurs when you try to pass someone on the straight. They focus on your car and essentially subconsciously drive right into. It looks like they’re trying to squeeze you off the straight, but usually it’s just an unintended rookie type mistake. The point is it’s almost always better to pass in corners. Drivers of equal ability will take some work (that’s what makes racing fun), but there is usually a corner or two they go wide on and most newer drivers are usually easy to pass on the corner going into the main straight as the almost always fly in wide and get back on the gas too soon. Just slow to the inside and out accelerate the on exit.                                                                                                                                                  car30

4. Like a Sports Car

Short course trucks are just like sports cars. Makes perfectly good sense…if you have experience with the racing of full-size cars—either as a driver or an entrenched fan. You see, sports car or road course racers know that you brake in straight lines and accelerate in corners. This is the foundation of proper performance driving. You should be 100% done slowing down before you get to a corner and you should be accelerating through and out of the corner.                                                                                                         car33

5. Practice Smart

There may be no such thing as bad practice, but some practice is definitely better than others. Most racers get their practice in by showing up early on race day. They’ll get there hours before they really need to and then spend most of that time shooting the bull with the other “diehards” that show up at the crack of dawn. When the early birds do hit the track it’s on a dry track that is nothing like the one they’ll race on. Experimenting with tires and setup at this stage is completely pointless as while that practice is valuable, the track is simply nowhere near race shape. It’s far better to stay late and drive on the track after racing has concluded. Check with the race director first, but most don’t mind and you’ll be running on a track in is much closer to race condition. This is the time to try every tire combo you can think of and mess with your shocks.                                                                                                                                         car34                                                                                                             Credits:  http://rctruckstop.com/   http://

 

CARDS Aerodrome Warbirds and Classics Over Michigan – FG Coverage

 

We’ve got on-the-ground coverage from Warbirds and Classics Over Michigan, from reviewer Joe Vermillion!            bird1

Warbirds and Classics Over Michigan is Must-See-RC!

CARDS Aerodrome can be found in a nondescript field just south of Grandledge Michigan, and in this humble reviews opinion is one of the best RC Airfields in the country. (of course I am a member)

With its 1000ft well groomed runway, covered pavilion, covered bleachers, and plenty of room for pilots and spectators alike, it is the perfect first stop for the Indiana Warbirds Alliance!

With 67 pilots, about 150 planes and great weather, the turn out was fantastic! We had plenty of flying and fun all weekend long! Now let me stop blabbering on and let you enjoy the coverage!

Douglas C-124a Globemaster

Carl Bachhubers gigantic One-of Replica of the Douglas C-124a Globemaster flew on and off all weekend. This amazing model has a wingspan of 200″ and is powered by Zenoah G-45’s turning 20X10 3 bladed props, has scratch built retracts and SPC brakes. The nose cargo hold actually opens up to carry an RC Tank! This airframe is a true work of art! Carl is one amazing builder for sure! Well done sir! For more info on Carls amazing builds check HERE.

We had a a great event

The weather cooperated nicely and the event was a huge success! Other then the wind being a little high at times, most pilots got plenty of flight time and really took advantage of this fantastic field! There was barely a moment when there wasn’t three or four planes in the air all weekend.

Indiana Warbird Alliance

The CARDS Club Warbirds and Classics Over Michigan event was the first stop in the 2016 Indiana Warbirds Alliance 7 event tour for 2016. CARDS has hosted this event for the last 4 years and it has been a huge hit each time. The Warbird & Classics Alliance is a group of giant scale r/c warbird and classics events. All share a common goal, to KEEP AVIATION HISTORY ALIVE. They support the radio control industry and promote the growth of warbird and classic flying events. More info can be foundHERE

Unique Aircraft

Not only did we see lots of commonly modeled airframes, but we also had a chance to check out several models that you just don’t see at many events. These modelers have some real talent and spend hours on there airframes getting the “just right” touches in place.

Volunteers

CARDS had no shortage of Volunteers to make sure that this years event ran smoothly. Every thing from parking, to concessions, to flight line management, to just answering questions. They also took the time each day right after the noon demos to open the pit up for people to come get a closer look at these awesome aircraft!

Awards

The winners of this years awards where, Nole Hunt with his SPAD for Best WW1 Aircraft, Jon Seese with his Stuka for Best WW2 Aircraft, Andy Low with his 1/3 Cub for Best Classic Aircraft, Jim Gebboney with his Tiger Cat for Best Multi-Engine, Jack Kezilian with his BAE Hawk for Best Jet, and Al Ferguson with his Newport for Best Realistic Flight. Congrats to all the winners! It was well deserved!

In Closing

In closing I would have to say the the CARDS Club WarBirds and Classics Over Michigan R/C Airshow is absolutely “Must See R/C”! It is not only a great event for pilots to come out and enjoy a fun filled weekend of flying and friendship but is also a great place to bring the family for a cheap day of family friendly entertainment! If your ever in the area during the event its a stop you will want to make! Thanks for coming to check it out with me! See you next time! “Mean Joe V” for FlyingGiants.com!            Credits:

  Matt Gunnhttp://www.flyinggiants.com/CARDS

Joe Vermillion http://  Shop Amazon – All-New Fire TV, Now with 4K

Rescue 17 Fireboat

Elevating Action on the Water

fire1

There are those products that come to market that get you all riled up as if you were a kid again and what you see on these pages is sure to get you going. As a kid, who didn’t want a sailboat that set off for unexplored lands while you played on the beach? And who didn’t want a plastic boat that braved the rapids of that stream behind your house? Well for big kids into boats, there is a new release that will blow away the wildest inner child’s imagination. The new Aquacraft Rescue 17 Fireboat is the first model boat I’ve ever reviewed with an “interactive” feature, a rotating water cannon capable of shooting a stream of water 10 to 12 feet. It also has lights and a powerful brushless system to propel it to other boats in peril. This boat is sure to get that inner kid in you excited to brave the water as a scaled-down fireboat captain.   Let’s Get the Rescue 17 out of the Box
The Rescue 17 arrived in a big shipping box. With an overall length of 38 inches, a large shipping box is required to protect the model. I was impressed by the packaging technique utilized to secure and protect the hull and cabin structure. There’s a considerable amount of packaging engineering required to create the foam padding encasing the hull to prevent damage during shipping. Although I had seen photos of the Rescue 17 on the inside cover of RC BOAT, Volume 4 and the AquaCraft website, I was still very impressed with the attention to scale detail on the hull and cabin structure. The Rescue 17’s amazing amount of detail adds to the realism. The old axiom, “A picture is worth a thousand words,” will provide a visual listing of the scale detailing.                                                                                                                              fire2

Getting Ready to Put out the Fire
There only a couple of things that need to be done to the Rescue 17 to prepare for operation. The light mast is secured to the top of the cabin with the .15 x 16 screw provided. A dab of CA glue applied to the bottom peg of the antenna will hold it to the light mast. Two “AA” batteries, not provided, are installed in the battery holder inside the cabin to power the light mast. The plug between the battery pack and on/off switch needs connecting. The Tactic TTX 490 4-channel radio requires four “AA” batteries that are also not provided.

Propulsion for the Rescue 17 is provided by an AquaCraft 600 brushed motor powered by a 2200 – 3300 mAh 3S LiPo battery pack. There’s plenty of space in the boat to use a 3S pack with a even a higher mAh rating. The AquaCraft Multi-Controller ESC provides both forward and reverse. Reverse speed is probably around 25 percent of top speed in forward.

It is highly recommended that the pump be primed prior to using the water cannon. There is a direction sheet describing how to prime the pump. This procedure involves removing the water line from the intake tube to the pump, submerging the line in water, and then reattaching the water line. I primed the pump using a fuel bulb filled with water and connected to the intake tube. Squeeze the bulb till water shoots out of the water cannon and the pump is primed. A two-ounce Sullivan Brand fuel bulb is a common hobby shop item. It would also be possible to adapt a cooking baster bulb to shoot water into the pump.                                                                                                                                                                              fire3 Putting out the Fire and/or Candles
Before heading out to run the Rescue 17, I dropped by the local Walgreens to pick up some candles. I have run nitro, gas, electric and sail boat model models over the past 50 years, but the Rescue 17 is the first time I’ve ever operated a model boat capable of extinguishing a fire. Granted, four candles on a piece of foam don’t provide a blazing fire. The candles did, however, provide sufficient flame to test my mini firefighting skills. I quickly discovered attempting to hit the candles with the water cannon wasn’t all that easy. Hitting the candles with the stream of water involved positioning the Rescue 17 the correct distance from the candles, using rudder and speed control and rotating the water cannon to spray across the candles. Racing a 60 mph hydroplane involves less coordination of transmitter inputs than attempting to keep the stream of water from the water cannon on the candles. The slightest amount of breeze greatly influences the positioning of the boat and the direction of the stream of water.                                                  At full throttle, the Rescue 17 moves across the water on plane with a great-looking bow wake. It is capable of making tight corners in either direction. However, sweeping corners would be more in keeping with scale operation of a fire boat. Run time with a 2200 mAh 3S LiPo pack was 12 – 15 minutes, running at full speed. Longer run times would be available if the Rescue 17 was stationary or operated slowly while attempting to extinguish candles.                                                                                                                     fire4After Run Maintenance
A maintenance step not included in the instruction manual was greasing the driveshaft. After approximately one hour of running the Rescue 17, I removed the driveshaft and it needed to have grease applied. It is necessary to remove the rudder to allow removal of the prop shaft. A 1.5mm set screw wrench is required to loosen the set screws on the rudder control arm and shaft coupler. A thin coating of Grim Racer Speed Grease Drive Cable Lube was applied to both the driveshaft and rudder shaft. Wipe any excess grease from the end of the prop shaft to avoid splattering grease on the hull bottom. It was necessary to push the driveshaft slightly downward to insert the shaft back into the coupler. Make certain the flat area on the shaft matches the coupler set screw.                                                                          fire5

Aftermarket Siren from RAM Models
After numerous trips to the lake with my Rescue 17, it seemed like there was something missing from the experience. That missing something was a siren. Having spent time at hobby shows with Ralph Warner, owner of RAM Radio Control Models, I knew Ralph had a siren in his electronics products inventory. Anytime I call Ralph, I know I’m in for a well-deserved, good natured ribbing. Over the years, Ralph has been very generous, providing me with various items his company sells for the RC aircraft, boat, and car enthusiast. Just a few days after our conversation the RAM Mark II Siren arrived in the mail.

The siren kit consists of a circuit board, on/off micro switch, cardboard material for a speaker box, a 1.5-inch speaker, and directions with diagrams. The only assembly required is constructing the speaker box and gluing the speaker to the box. I painted the box black and attached Velcro to the top. Velcro was also applied to the top of the cabin in back of the middle window. The plastic window was removed to allow the sound to exit the cabin. The on/off micro switch is mounted to a separate servo with double back tape. A Y-harness plugged into the throttle section of the receiver actuates the servo when throttle is applied. I spliced a connector into the wires leading to the speaker which allowed the cabin to be removed without having to remove the speaker.                                                                                                                      fire6

The siren definitely adds realism when the Rescue 17 is in operation. The RAM Mark II Siren is available from RAM Radio Control Models, RamRCandRamTrack.com, or you can give Ralph a call at (847) 740-8726.

The Last Word
The Rescue 17 is a model boat an entire family could enjoy operating. My wife, Maren, ran the boat for the photo shoot. Maren’s attempt to extinguish the candles proved rather challenging. Steering the boat wide open around the lake proved much easier than dousing candles 10 feet off the bow. The Rescue 17 is visually impressive as a static and operational model fire boat and it can provide a feeling of accomplishment when the only thing moving is the water cannon spraying water on candles. The Rescue 17 is proof you don’t have to be going fast to have fun with a model boat.                                                           Credits: http://www.aquacraftmodels.com/http://www.rcboatmag.com/Tony Phalen and Words & photos by Jerry Dunlap   http:// 

 

Barnstormers over Champaign 2014 Videos

 

Published on Aug 28, 2014

Taken at the “Barnstormers Over Champaign” event August 23 and 24, 2014. An event I went to on a whim, but next year it will be intentional. Everyone there was friendly and hospitable and made me feel like I was one of the family. If you like radio controlled flying, I strongly recommend that you make it a point to go to the event.                                                                                                                                                plane20

plane21

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plane22

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http://  Credits: Scott Coyle and http://www.ccrcc.info/main/index.php?option=com_frontpage&Itemid=1  

Off-Road RC Car Tuning Guide

Need More Steering?
• Batteries – Move batteries towards the front of the vehicle.
• Front Shock Mounting – Move the lower shock mount towards the outside
• Front Camber Link – Longer camber links increase steering
• Front Ride Height – Lower the front ride height
• Rear Ride Height – Raise rear ride height for more high speed steering
• Rear Shock Mounting – Move upper mount towards outside
• Wheelbase – Lengthen the wheelbase for more steering
• Rear Toe-in – Decrease rear toe-in
• Ackerman – Use less Ackerman for more sensitive steering                                                                               offroad1                                                                                                             Need More Traction?
• Batteries – Move batteries towards the rear of the vehicle
• Rear Ride Height – Lower rear ride height
• Rear Camber – Less camber (0 -1 deg.)
• Camber Link – Longer camber links
• Rear Shock Mounting – Move upper mount towards the inside
• Wheelbase – Shorten the wheelbase
• Rear Toe-in – Increase rear toe-in
• Slipper – Loosen slipper so wheels don’t spin as much                                                                                             offroad2                                                                                                                 Need Better Jumping?
• Shock Oil – If bouncing too much or bottoms out over jumps, use heavier oil
• Shock Pistons – If bottoming out over jumps, use smaller hole pistons
• Rear Shock Mounting – If bottoming out over jumps move upper mount towards he outside
• Battery Position – If nose high during jumps, move battery forward, move rearward if nose is down during jumps
• Weight – Add weight to nose if it’s too high during jumps                                                                                     offroad3                                                                                                                              Need More High Speed Steering?
• Front Toe – More toe-in gives you more steering coming out of the corners
• Front Caster – Less caster gives you more steering exiting corners
• Rear Ride Height – Raise rear ride height for more high speed steering                                                            offroad4                                                                                                                    More Stable Over Rough Tracks?
• Anti-squat – Less anti-squat allows better acceleration on rough tracks
• Rear Camber – More negative camber is more stable on bumpy tracks
• Rear Camber Link – Shorter camber links is more stable on bumpy tracks
• Front Shock Mounting – Move lower shock mount inside for bumpy tracks
• Battery Mounting – Place in the middle for most stable on all tracks                                                                 offroad5                                                                                                                   Credits: rcracingusa.net  http://     

How to Get Started in Hobby RC: Body Painting Your Vehicles

One of the best ways to personalize an RC kit is to give it a fresh coat of paint. This guide will focus on the basics of painting bodies for RC cars–a genuinely fun and rewarding art form.   

We’ve run through the basics of several types of remote controlled vehicles, from cars to boats to planes–and some tweaks to modify them. But one of the best ways to personalize an RC kit is to give it a fresh coat of paint. This guide will focus on the basics of painting bodies for RC cars–a genuinely fun and rewarding art form.

Most RC car bodies are made from polycarbonate plastic (aka Lexan). It is incredibly tough stuff, which makes it ideal for absorbing the abuse that RC cars are routinely subjected to. The bodies are formed by vacuforming a sheet of clear Lexan over a mold. The body is then painted on the inside surface, which effectively makes the plastic a thick, shiny clear coat. If painted correctly, a body can last and look good for a long time. http://amzn.to/22rOrBO

The Caveats

If you are an accomplished airbrush or spray paint graffiti artist, you already possess many of the skills necessary to paint a RC car body. There are, however, a few elements that are specific to painting car bodies that you must consider. The number one thing to know is that most paints will not stick to Lexan. You must use specially formulated products that are typically sold in hobby shops as RC car body paint. This isn’t a marketing gimmick. These are truly the only paints I have seen that bond reliably to Lexan. If you use some random hardware store paint, it will only look good until that first crash. Then, the paint will begin to chip and flake off, randomly eroding your artistic efforts. Trust me; don’t get cheap with the paint. Buy the right stuff and have no regrets.

Since we will be painting the inside of the body, some things may be reversed from painting tasks you are used to. Obviously, any masking must be done as a mirror image. Less obvious is the need to apply the darkest colors first. Since it is difficult to achieve a fully opaque finish, having a dark color behind a light color may affect the tint of the light color. Applying the dark color first negates this effect. Keep this in mind as you plan out your paint scheme and order of operations.

WORKING WITH LEXAN REQUIRES SPECIAL PAINT AS WELL AS SPECIFIC TOOLS TO ACHIEVE CLEAN, LONG-LASTING RESULTS. A VARIETY OF COMMON MASKING OPTIONS CAN BE USED.

You may need to do trimming or drilling of the car body. I highly recommend using tools designed for the job. The curved blades on Lexan scissors make it easy to trim wheel wells and other rounded areas without creating jagged edges on the body. A tapered reamer is the only sensible way to drill holes in Lexan. Regular drill bits will grab and tear as they go through, often leaving a mess. . If you are using a body that will require cutting and drilling, it is usually better to do this before painting. It helps to have the body clear when you are trying to get everything aligned and fitted.

Your Options

There is a seemingly endless selection of Lexan bodies. Manufacturers will often offer replacement bodies for the vehicles in their lineup. Aftermarket companies also sell a range of bodies in many different styles. Some are designed for a specific vehicle, others are more generic and can be adapted to whatever RC car you please.

In addition to styles, RC car bodies also differ in their level of finish. Some are fully trimmed and have holes drilled for the body posts. Many others must be cut free from the vacuformed sheet and have holes drilled; hence the scissor and reamer suggestion above. The package may also include precut paint masks for the windows or perhaps decals to emulate headlights. Pay attention to these details as you search for a body, as they could have significant impact on the level of effort it takes to get the body painted and fitted to your car.  http://amzn.to/22rOrBO

LEXAN CAR BODIES ARE STOUT STUFF. THIS GARAGE-SALE TREASURE HAS SEEN MUCH ABUSE BUT ITS ONLY PROBLEMS ARE COSMETIC. I REPLACED THE BODY ANYWAY.

Project Example

My brother-in-law recently gave me a Traxxas E-Maxx monster truck that he found at a garage sale for just $15. He’s always had a knack for finding super deals like that. Other than the missing transmitter, the E-Maxx appeared to be complete and in relatively good condition. Thanks Dan!

Since I planned to replace the haggard shell on the E-Maxx anyway, I thought that it presented a good opportunity to illustrate the basic techniques of painting a Lexan body. I actually bought two bodies. On one, I will show a very basic, single-color spray can paint job. With the other body, I will illustrate a more complex multi-color motif that necessitates an airbrush.

THIS REPLACEMENT BODY FOR THE TRAXXAS E-MAXX COMES TRIMMED AND DRILLED TO FIT THE TRUCK. IT ALSO INCLUDES A TRANSPARENT OUTER MASK. ALL OF THESE FEATURES EXPEDITE THE PAINTING AND FITTING PROCESSES.

The bodies that I purchased are Traxxas’ replacement units for the E-Maxx. They are trimmed and drilled for the truck, so that was a big time saver. What I like most about these bodies is that they have a transparent mask on the outside. This prevents paint overspray from getting on the outer part of the body. It is easy enough to mask the outside yourself, but having a transparent mask means you don’t have to remove it every time you want to see how the body looks from the outer surface.

The Spray Can Approach

I did a quick fit check to make sure the body fit the truck as intended (it did) and then got down to business. As with any paint job, the key to a good finish is proper surface preparation. In this case, the body must be washed to remove any dirt, oil, fingerprints, etc. I use a tiny drop of dish soap and warm water to wash the inside surface by rubbing it with a clean wet cloth. After rinsing, I used lint-free paper towels to get everything completely dry.

Next I masked the windows. There are many ways to mask an area for painting. I typically prefer to use regular low-tack masking tape whenever I can. The blue household stuff is good for masking large areas and that’s what I used for the windows. Liquid mask is good for compound curves and complex designs. For stripes or small areas, thin vinyl masking tape works very well. You can also use frisket film, which is a little like adhesive shelf paper. I used a variety of these masks on the airbrushed body, which I will explain later on.

A SHARP KNIFE AND A LIGHT TOUCH ARE ALL YOU NEED TO TRIM MASKING TAPE. ALWAYS MAKE SURE THE FINISHED EDGES ARE FIRMLY ADHERED TO THE LEXAN.

Allow me to digress a bit further on the tape topic. One of my biggest pet peeves is when people set tape rolls down on their side. When that occurs, whatever dirt, dust, hair or other schmutz happened to be on that surface is now stuck to the edge of the tape. When you apply the tape as a mask, the clingons come with it and compromise the edge seal. The result is often color bleeding on your painted edges. To mitigate this, I keep a few generic-use rolls of masking tape handy and visible to the rest of the household while keeping my private stash of clean tape squirreled away in a Ziploc bag. I had to use the community tape for the windows, but it worked out okay.

The windows are marked with small ridges in the plastic. I applied adequate tape to completely cover the area and then trimmed away the excess. I used an X-Acto knife with a new #11 blade for trimming. It takes a very light touch to cut through the tape and not dig into the plastic. The window ridge creates a natural guide for cutting. Once the cut was complete, I carefully peeled away the excess tape. I then used a fingernail to reseal the entire perimeter of the mask.

THE FIRST COAT OF ANY COLOR SHOULD BE A VERY LIGHT MIST TO HELP SEAL THE EDGES OF THE MASKING MATERIAL AND ENSURE A DRIP-FREE FINISH.

The paints I used are from the new Duratrax line of RC car paints. On this first body, I used the Metallic Red spray paint. I always start with a super-light mist coat of paint. This helps to seal the edges of the masks and prevent bleeding. Not all spray cans work the same. It helps to practice a little on a scrap piece of plastic or cardboard first, so you can get a feel for the spray characteristics of the nozzle.

The mist coat dried within a few minutes, so I began applying subsequent coats, each only a little heavier than the mist coat. There’s no point in getting in a hurry and glopping on a heavy coat. It is likely to run and will take longer to dry. After about half an hour and four coats of paint, the body had a nice, even, red tint to it, so I moved on to the next step.

Most metallic, pearl, and candy, and fluorescent colors are not intended to be used alone. They must be backed with a coat of silver or white to make them opaque. In this case, I applied two coats of white Base Cover Coat. This really made the color come alive. I then carefully peeled off the window and outer body masks. However I wasn’t quite done yet.

I LIKE TO RUN A SHARPIE MARKER AROUND WINDOW BORDERS TO HELP HIDE ANY IRREGULARITIES IN THE MASKED EDGE.

I like to trace the perimeter of the window using a black Sharpie marker on the outside of the body. This helps to cover any irregularities in the edge of your mask, of which I had plenty. You can remove any goof-ups with the Sharpie by using a rag and alcohol (denatured alcohol works best). It was at this point that I noticed the bodies did not include headlight decals–that’s a separate item. I guess I’ll have to add them later. The same decal sheet also includes black decals for the windows. If you decide to use something like that, you wouldn’t need to do any masking. Just paint the body and apply the decals to the outside.  http://amzn.to/22rOrBO

THE PAINTED BODY ONLY NEEDS HEADLIGHT DECALS TO BE COMPLETE. I EXPECT THIS PAINT JOB TO WITHSTAND A LOT OF ABUSE AND LOOK GOOD FOR A LONG TIME.

After allowing the paint to dry overnight, I completed the final step of the paint job. I applied squares of masking tape on the underside of the body around the body post holes. This prevents the top of the body posts from scratching the paint each time you install the body. While it isn’t fancy, this red paint job is clean and should last for a long time.

The Airbrush Approach

The advantage of using an airbrush is that it allows much more precise control than a spray can over the amount of paint that comes out and the size of the spray pattern. This precision opens up many possibilities for custom designs and effects. My meager airbrushing abilities only scratch the surface of what is possible. With the second E-Maxx body, I created a paint scheme that is simple by airbrush standards. Yet, it displays some of the subtleties that are possible. My goal here is not to teach you how to use an airbrush, but rather to help you to see why you should learn.

WHEN USING AN AIRBRUSH TO PAINT SMALL AREAS, IT IS IMPORTANT TO MASK ANY PARTS THAT YOU DO NOT WANT PAINTED.

I used frisket film to create the Tested “T” logo on the hood. I first cut out the entire logo design on my workbench (as a mirror image) and then applied the completed mask to the hood. To help me align the mask, I drew reference marks on the outside body mask with a Sharpie. Next I masked off the orange, black, and white stripes that dissect the body. These were created freehand using flexible masking tape, also from Duratrax. This stuff is really flexible (like electrical tape), but doesn’t leave adhesive residue. It takes a little practice, but you can get this tape to fit around compound curves and features in the body relatively easily.

Once the features were masked, I used newspaper to mask most of the body. I left only the soon-to-be black stripes and “T” open. Remember: darkest colors first. I used spray paint for that quick job. Next came Candy Blue for the front of the truck. First, I custom mixed a darker shade of blue by mixing in a little black paint. I then added thinner to get the paint to the right consistency for airbrushing. I applied this darker color to create a fade where the blue meets the forward orange stripe. I also added light touches of this color around the window frames and the T logo to give each a little depth.

Next, I thinned straight Candy Blue from the bottle and applied several coats. As with the red on the previous body, this color also needs an undercoat. This time, I used silver, which I think gives a more metallic finish.  http://amzn.to/22rOrBO

I made a grey color by mixing white and black. This was applied behind the rear orange stripe. It transitions to a lighter grey, and then to white. Somewhere while doing this fade work, I added a shot of grey to the bottom panel of the T logo.

The Fluorescent Orange was airbrushed next. It required a white undercoat. I was able to kill two birds with one stone by painting the white areas and undercoating the orange in one shot. Once the white dried, I traced the window outlines with a Sharpie and called it done. Again, it isn’t a very complex paint job, but it should give you an idea of the effects that are possible with the control afforded by an airbrush.

THE COLOR FADES AND HIGHLIGHTS ON THIS BODY ILLUSTRATE SOME OF THE SIMPLE EFFECTS THAT ARE POSSIBLE WITH AN AIRBRUSH. MANY MORE EXOTIC POSSIBILITIES ABOUND.

Conclusion

I hope these tips will encourage you to try painting your next RC car body. I think it is a lot of fun to do and the creative possibilities are endless. Life is too short for production line paint jobs!

Let’s summarize the key points to remember:

  • Paint goes on the inside surface
  • Wash the body with dish soap
  • Use the proper paint and tools
  • Apply dark colors first
  • Always start with a mist coat on every new color
  • Never use a heavy coat of paint
  • Some colors require a white or silver undercoat
  • Be creative!

Credits:  TERRY DUNN   http://www.tested.com/tech/  http://