The Losi® Audi R8 LMS ultra puts you in charge of a no-holds-barred supercar that matches its great looks with equally impressive features. If speed is what you desire most in an RC car, then look no further.
At a Glance
The Audi R8 LMS ultra created by the Belgian W-Racing Team was designed to do one thing, go head-to-head in GT3 class racing against the world’s best. The 1/6-scale AWD Losi® Audi R8 LMS ultra honors the W-Racing Team’s creation with an impressive scale model that puts you in charge of a no-holds-barred RC supercar. If speed is what you desire most, then look no further. Featuring a massive 1200Kv brushless motor typically found in 1/5-scale vehicles and an impressive 160A ESC, the Audi R8 LMS ultra surpasses nearly every other RC supercar on the market with speeds of 60+ MPH. To help manage this outrageous power, Spektrum™ AVC® (Active Vehicle Control™) technology has been included. Using AVC you can dial in extra directional stability and throttle control and harness the ridiculous power of this impressive supercar.
Losi™ 6IX™ Platform
Losi platforms are standouts in the world of RC driving; the 6IX platform is no different. This chassis design is ideal for the trials and tribulations of a supercar and features a solid 3mm aluminum build and shaft-driven AWD drivetrain
Dynamite® 1200Kv Brushless Motor
Typically reserved for larger vehicles the motor of the Audi R8 LMS ultra delivers brutal speeds and acceleration when you need it most for ballistic top speeds and mind bending drifting.
Dynamite® Waterproof Brushless ESC
This unbeatable supercar comes well-equipped for the trials and tribulations of up to 6S of dual LiPo battery power with a Dynamite® 160A ESC pre-wired for with EC5™ connectors. Best of all, the waterproof nature of this ESC means weather won’t slow you down whenever you get the urge to drive or drift.
AVC® Enhanced Spektrum™ SRS4201 Receiver
Thanks to the inclusion of AVC , you can maximize the ridiculous power that’s packed into the Losi Audi R8. Genuine AVC (Active Vehicle Control) technology and extended range 2.4GHz connectivity ensure you can experience interference-free driving, even from afar.
Impressive Scale Body
From its hood to its spoiler, the attention to detail paid to this supercar body borders on obsessive. To help evoke the look and appeal of its inspiration scale details including official graphics, molded grill, mirrors, canards, diffuser, and splitter put this model miles ahead of other supercars.
Spektrum™ DX2E V3 Transmitter
The Spektrum™ DX2E V3 transmitter features extended range DSMR technology and superior comfort as well as AVC compatibility.
Large Monster Truck Inspired Tires and Chrome Wheels
Massive 6.9 in diameter wheels compliment the monster appearance of the LST XXL 2 and facilitate maximum traction in the most punishing of environments. A custom black chrome finish gives added appeal even while the LST XXL 2 is blurring by at breakneck speeds.
The oversized threaded-aluminum, oil-filled, coil-over shocks on the Losi Audi R8 are built to be as dependable and durable as possible and are optimized for enhanced performance. Threaded bodies and collars allow for easy adjustments and fine tuning.
Hey everyone I’m back for one final Instructable…or one of the last at least. I have recently gotten into the hobby of RC cars and at first I didn’t know too much about, well basically everything. I have decided to help everyone else out by sharing everything I have learned over the last year. And by the way, I appreciate positive comments since this is still a work in progress.
Step 1: The Brands These are some of the biggest brands to choose from for buying an rc car. I know there are plenty more but these seem to be the most popular.
Traxxas cars are very fast, durable, and high quality. If you buy one of these, you will very rarely need to replace broken or worn parts. However, these cars and trucks start at about $300 and do not always include a battery pack and charger. To buy visit www.traxxas.com
Out of all of these, Exceed cars are the cheapest, but they often require spare parts and a rather high level of maitenence. I own an exceed, so I can personally tell you to only get an exceed if you do not want to spend a lot of money and you are willing to pay $10 for shipping every time a few pieces break. The cars start at $90 and are most of the parts are good quality. To buy visitwww.nitrorcx.com
HPI cars are not all that popular, mostly because they are as expensive as Traxxas but not as good quality. There is not much I can say about them other than from what I’ve read they have good quality parts and will not need many replacements. To buy visit www.nitrorcx.com or www.hpiracing.com
Tamiya is the classic RC car brand. They’ve been making good cars for more than 30 years. I own the Grasshopper from about 1984 or something but its actually really nice. I have never broken a part on it and I’ve been driving it offroad for a year now. They start around $200 but are reasonably slower than other brands for that price due to the classical “Low-Tech” designs. To buy visit www.tamiya.com
Step 2: The Car Types There are about 5 car types. I am not going to explain too much about each since they seem rather straightforward.
These are your average street cars. They are the fastest and the best on paved, flat surfaces. Do not get this if you are looking to drive in your backyard or want something with more power.
Drift cars are like on-road cars but with slick tires. YOu can slide around turns and still get almost as fast as an on-road car. They are good if regular cars bore you but you like to drive fast. Drifting is hard, however, so be warned.
Buggies are a cross between offroad and onroad cars. They are the second fastest on road but the slowest offroad usually due to their low wheelbase. Buggies are good for those who cant decide what type of car they want, since they can use it for both.
Truggies are also a crossover like buggies, but they are more for the offroad. It basically takes the frame of a Buggy and puts monster truck tires on it. These are the 3rd fastest on road and the 2nd slowest off.
Trucks are your monster trucks. They are amazing offroad but very slow onroad. They may flip a lot when trying to make high speed turns so these are not the best for on road and you should get these if you want to drive in the woods or in the grass the most.
Step 3: Electric or Nitro Now that you know the brands and types of rc cars its time to decide if you want to go with electric or nitro. Here are some of the advantages and disadvantages of each.
Better for at-home use
Cars have faster acceleration in general
Limited run times
need to wait hours to recharge batteries
Brushless motors are expensive
Longer run times
Need to buy gas
Smells bad (my opinion)
a little more expensive to buy the car
cars are more complex (more can go wrong)
Step 4: Electric Motors and ESC There are two different types of rc motors. Brushed and Brushless. Each motor type has its own kind of ESC (Electronic Speed Controller). Without an esc, your motor would just do nothing or go full throttle when you wanted to drive. Brushed motors are cheap but very ineffecient and lact power. The ESC’s are also cheaper. Brushless motors are efficient, powerful, fast, and last much longer. Brushless motors and ESC’s do not really have an expiration date, while brushed usually last about 6 months to a year. The main visual difference between the two is the brushless is sealed completely and has three wires, while the brushed has ventilation holes and two wires.
Step 5: Brushless upgrades MOTOR RATING
brushless motors are labeled with two things, a large number followed by “kv” and a smaller number followed by “t”. Basically, you need to check the ESC for that motor and read up a little. It will tell u what numbers followed by “t” will be good for your use. So if you want it offroad you will want more “t”, but you will get less “kv”. On-road is the opposite.
KV stands for the amount of rotations per minute per volt. So if this basically means the bigger the number, the faster your car will go. Just make sure if you want your car to drive good offroad you get a motor with the correct “t”.
For example, my brushless motor was a 6000kv 5.5t brushless combo. I checked the ESC and it said you need greater than or equal to 5.5t for on road and greater than or equal to 8.5t for offroad. I got an on-road motor so i could go fast (about 45mph). If you wanted to go offroad you could buy the 4000kv 8.5t motor, which goes about 35mph but has more power. If you do not understand something here pm me. I will be glad to help.
Step 6: Electric Car Layout This is the basic layout for exceed 1/10th scale rc cars and trucks. It has all the parts of other brands but the other brands have things in different places..
Step 7: LiPo or Ni-Mh Most of the time when you buy a car they come with a battery, but some may not. If that happens, you may be faced with this choice, LiPo or Ni-Mh. LiPo battery packs are the batteries of the future and if given the chance, make the investment. For $10 more you can get a battery pack which will give not only longer run times but also more power. They also do not lose their charge over time. Ni-Mh batteries are cheaper and “safer” (LiPo batteries CAN explode if improperly charged) but in the long run they are not worth it. Spend a few extra dollars and save a lot in the long run.
LiPo batteries are rated by two numbers, and Ni-Mh are rated with only one
the mAh of the battery packs is the capacity of the batteries. The larger the better.
Only LiPo’s are rated with “c” which is basically how fast they can deliver the power. Most battery packs are between 20-30c but you can find some that are 5000mAh 50c battery packs (those are VERY expensive; ~$50) or even an 8000mAh 50c battery pack (around $100) but BE CAREFUL!! Make sure you but a battery pack that will fit in your car!! Some battery packs are larger!
Step 8: How to pick the right car. Okay if you are buying an rc car this is how you should pick it out
pick an answer and go to the # in parenthesis. If there is a hyperlink in parenthesis click it and that is the car or cars that fit you best. (Note. I am including 1/10th rc cars only. These are the “Standard” size but feel free to either go smaller (1/16) or larger (up to 1/5)
1. I want to have a family friendly car that i can drive immediatly when i want to (2)
I want a car that is a little faster but dont mind taking more time to prep and costs more (11)
2. I want a durable car and am willing to spend more money (3)
I want a cheap car that may break in the future (7)
3. I want an offroad car (4)
I want an onroad car (6)
I want something inbetween (5)
11. If you want a nitro car you’re on your own. sorry.
Look I know there are pleanty more choices for each section but I just wanted to give everyone an idea about what the car they want may look like and so on. There are more cars you can buy then I listed so please understand that.
You’re all done. Now go research the the cars that match your style and find out which one to buy. It is smart to research simmilar cars also. Just keep in mind what you will want for the future. I made this mistake and now I have to pay a lot more money to maintain my car.
Step 9: Recommended Accessories and final tips. I would definintely recommend buying a complete extra set of tires for your car and some CA glue the day and minute you buy your rc car. The tires wear very quick so be prepared. I highly recommend making an investment when you buy your car and get a good quality one. I promise you it will pay off in the long run. I know from experience and I believe that over about a 2-3 year period, the amound of money spent on most cars and spare parts, no matter what the quality, will be about the same. Dont be a cheapskate…unless you are under 18. If you are not sure on the car you want to get there are pleanty of forums out there about the specific car you may want. Please just research before you purchase, I don’t want anyone crying to me because I said they shoud get this car and they hate it.
Anyone with any racing experience will tell you that jumping from class to class isn’t as easy as just selecting a new model on your transmitter and picking up a new truck. And, many people think that because the scale appeal of short course attracts so many newcomers to the hobby that the class is for beginners and thus easy. The point is that short course racing takes just as much skill as any other class and even experienced racers can have a hard time adapting and succeeding. If you want to run at the front of the pack, check out these five tips:
Racing is all about going fast, right? Well, if you’re constantly flying into corners, spraying dirt everywhere and ripping down the straights, you’re doing it wrong. You might feel like you’re going really fast and that may work to some degree with an overpowered truggy, but it’s the slow way to get a short course truck around the track. This is especially true if you’re in the 17.5-turn class. You can get away with a little bit of a heavy-handed driving style with 4WD class short course truck, but it is essential that you drive smoothly. You should drive like you have an egg strapped to your truck. Drive smoothly and try to keep your truck always rolling.
2. Stay Out of Trouble
I lot of people think short course is the class where it’s OK to beat and bash. Let them think that and let them smash into each other. Just keep your distance and let the action unfold—don’t be a part of it. You’ll lose far less time by slightly hanging back in comparison to getting involved in a wreck. Think about the time you lose when you crash and then have to wait for a corner marshal as compared to when you just ease back a bit and wait for the right time to make a move. We’re talking the difference between ten seconds and a tenth of a second or maybe the difference between first and third.
3. Passing vs. Catching
There’s a difference? There very much is a difference between catching someone and passing them, but you’d never know it watching the typical RC race. Most racers just race as fast as they can try to get around people as they catch them. It sounds good, but catching and passing are simply two different acts. When you catch someone think about whether you’re at a good place to pass. Some slow cars can be blown by down the straight, but keep in mind that a phenomenon called target fixation almost always occurs when you try to pass someone on the straight. They focus on your car and essentially subconsciously drive right into. It looks like they’re trying to squeeze you off the straight, but usually it’s just an unintended rookie type mistake. The point is it’s almost always better to pass in corners. Drivers of equal ability will take some work (that’s what makes racing fun), but there is usually a corner or two they go wide on and most newer drivers are usually easy to pass on the corner going into the main straight as the almost always fly in wide and get back on the gas too soon. Just slow to the inside and out accelerate the on exit.
4. Like a Sports Car
Short course trucks are just like sports cars. Makes perfectly good sense…if you have experience with the racing of full-size cars—either as a driver or an entrenched fan. You see, sports car or road course racers know that you brake in straight lines and accelerate in corners. This is the foundation of proper performance driving. You should be 100% done slowing down before you get to a corner and you should be accelerating through and out of the corner.
5. Practice Smart
There may be no such thing as bad practice, but some practice is definitely better than others. Most racers get their practice in by showing up early on race day. They’ll get there hours before they really need to and then spend most of that time shooting the bull with the other “diehards” that show up at the crack of dawn. When the early birds do hit the track it’s on a dry track that is nothing like the one they’ll race on. Experimenting with tires and setup at this stage is completely pointless as while that practice is valuable, the track is simply nowhere near race shape. It’s far better to stay late and drive on the track after racing has concluded. Check with the race director first, but most don’t mind and you’ll be running on a track in is much closer to race condition. This is the time to try every tire combo you can think of and mess with your shocks. Credits: Matt Higginshttp://rctruckstop.com/http://
Need More Steering?
• Batteries – Move batteries towards the front of the vehicle.
• Front Shock Mounting – Move the lower shock mount towards the outside
• Front Camber Link – Longer camber links increase steering
• Front Ride Height – Lower the front ride height
• Rear Ride Height – Raise rear ride height for more high speed steering
• Rear Shock Mounting – Move upper mount towards outside
• Wheelbase – Lengthen the wheelbase for more steering
• Rear Toe-in – Decrease rear toe-in
• Ackerman – Use less Ackerman for more sensitive steering Need More Traction?
• Batteries – Move batteries towards the rear of the vehicle
• Rear Ride Height – Lower rear ride height
• Rear Camber – Less camber (0 -1 deg.)
• Camber Link – Longer camber links
• Rear Shock Mounting – Move upper mount towards the inside
• Wheelbase – Shorten the wheelbase
• Rear Toe-in – Increase rear toe-in
• Slipper – Loosen slipper so wheels don’t spin as much Need Better Jumping?
• Shock Oil – If bouncing too much or bottoms out over jumps, use heavier oil
• Shock Pistons – If bottoming out over jumps, use smaller hole pistons
• Rear Shock Mounting – If bottoming out over jumps move upper mount towards he outside
• Battery Position – If nose high during jumps, move battery forward, move rearward if nose is down during jumps
• Weight – Add weight to nose if it’s too high during jumps Need More High Speed Steering?
• Front Toe – More toe-in gives you more steering coming out of the corners
• Front Caster – Less caster gives you more steering exiting corners
• Rear Ride Height – Raise rear ride height for more high speed steering More Stable Over Rough Tracks?
• Anti-squat – Less anti-squat allows better acceleration on rough tracks
• Rear Camber – More negative camber is more stable on bumpy tracks
• Rear Camber Link – Shorter camber links is more stable on bumpy tracks
• Front Shock Mounting – Move lower shock mount inside for bumpy tracks
• Battery Mounting – Place in the middle for most stable on all tracks Credits: rcracingusa.net http://
Nine Easy Go-FastMods- It’s no question – the sensation of speed is one of the most popular aspects of radio control. Racers and bashers may differ in many ways when it comes to how they enjoy their favorite hobby, but they both share their desire for faster acceleration and higher velocity. From cleaning and oiling bearings to installing more horsepower, there are many ways to make your car faster – some without spending any money!
http:/ I dug deep into the RCCA archives for this gem – nine easy go fast mods. Enjoy the read, then start wrenching – after all, you’ve got races to win…even if they’re just down the street.
MAXIMUM VELOCITY MINIMUM EFFORT
Words: Kevin Hetmanski
Who doesn’t like to go fast? Nobody. Who wants to go faster? Everybody! Without spending a lot of time or dough, following these 8 tips will help you add a few more miles per hour and a little more distance between you and the second-fastest guy on the block. Think of them as “speed reading.”
POP THE CARB RESTRICTER
SPEED INCREASE ª 2MPH
Most nitro cars come with unrestricted carbs, but if your carb has a restricter (such as on this Associated GT2 RTR), you can gain a few mph by popping it out. When we tested the GT2 RTR, removing the restricter added 2.7mph and made the throttle punchier, which is great on pavement and other high-grip surfaces but can cause spin outs in low-grip dirt. So, if you pop the restricter, keep it in your toolbox; you may want to put it back in!
USE A 7-CELL OR LIPO PACK
Upgrading to LiPo power will save more than 3 ounces of weight and increase voltage for a significant speed boost.
SPEED INCREASE ª5 TO 10MPH
Boosting voltage is an easy, no-mod way to increase the speed of any electric car, provided your speed control can handle the extra juice. If you switch from a 6-cell pack to a 7-cell, you’ll increase voltage from 7.2 to 8.4 volts and have a significant increase in off-the-line punch and top speed. You can get a similar benefit (along with reduced weight and increased run time) by switching to LiPo power. A 2-cell LiPo pack delivers 7.4 volts; that doesn’t seem like a big voltage gain, but it does make a very noticeable difference in performance because the pack is also 3.5 ounces (give or take) lighter than a sub-C pack.
RUN FUEL WITH A HIGHER NITRO PERCENTAGE
SPEED INCREASE ª2 TO 5MPH
More nitro means a bigger boom with each combustion cycle, and that means more speed (or at least you’ll have the power you need to spin a taller gear ratio, and that will mean more speed). For maximum engine life, we suggest that you run 20-percent nitro for regular running, but when it’s time to crush the other guys in the neighborhood, reach for a jug of 30 percent. But be warned, the engine will run hotter.
INSTALL A HOTTER MOTOR
SPEED INCREASE ªUP TO 15MPH
Swapping a Neon’s 4-banger for a big-cube V-8 would be a herculean task in the full-size hot-rodding world, but similar performance gains are as simple as removing two screws on an electric RC car. Most RTRs include an anemic 540 motor that’s good for about 18mph; install a modified motor, and you can easily double that speed; the lower the number of winds, the faster the motor. One caveat: the faster the motor, the greater the strain it will put on your car’s speed control, hence the “motor limit” rating for most speed controls. Check your speed control’s manual, and stick with a motor that has the same number or more winds than the limit.
INSTALL BALL BEARINGS
SPEED INCREASE ªUP TO 2MPH
Fresh bushings can actually outperform grease-packed ball bearings, but bushings quickly degrade and that costs speed. For maximum velocity, metal-shielded (not rubber-sealed) bearings are best. Most cars already have ball-bearing transmissions, so all you have to do is pop bearings into the hubs. The speed increase won’t be dramatic and will depend on the state of your car’s drivetrain before the install, but you’ll get more than speed: bearings greatly outlast bushings and take the slop out of rotating parts.
SWAP MONSTER TREADS FOR STREET TIRES
SPEED INCREASE ª2 TO 5MPH
Gnarly monster treads are fine for the dirt and grass, but their excessive weight and rolling resistance robs you of speed on pavement. If you trade those treads in for street rubber, your truck will need less power to overcome that weight and rolling resistance, leaving more power for pure speed once you’re geared to take advantage of that power and to compensate for what will likely be smaller-diameter tires.
TUNE THE ENGINE
SPEED INCREASE ªUP TO 10MPH
The only thing more amazing than the amount of power a little nitro RC engine can make is how much less power it makes if the needle settings are just a little off. We’ve seen guys give up half their engine performance to bad tuning, typically by running the engine too rich. Lean the high end out by turning it clockwise 1/12 turn (think of it as 5 minutes on the face of a clock), and make a few passes to see if your engine reaches higher rpm (and thus, higher speed). When the engine stutters at full throttle or starts running closer to 300 degrees, it’s too lean; aback it off until the engine sings a clear high note at full throttle with a faint smoke trail from the pipe.
CUT THE FAT
SPEED INCREASE ª1 TO 3MPH
If you can trim weight from your ride, it won’t need as much power to get up to speed, and that means it can go even faster. Exactly how much weight you can lop off depends on the type of vehicle you have. A burly monster truck with 8 shocks, heavy tires, a reverse-gear servo and other not-essential-for-speed parts can be lightened significantly by removing the superfluous parts, but a racing-style buggy, stadium truck, or touring car might only have a few grams to offer (don’t bother).
When looking for weight savings, go to the wheels and tires first. The old racers’ adage “a pound of rotating weight is like 2 pounds of non-rotating weight” is very true, especially if you have a monster truck with heavy chevron tires!
GEARING THE REAL SECRET OF SPEED
All of the tips outlined in this article can increase speed, but to really take advantage of them, proper gearing is essential. Otherwise, you’ll probably see quicker acceleration but little or no increase in top speed, which isn’t necessarily a bad thing, as acceleration wins more races than sheer speed. But when absolute speed is the goal, it’s all about gearing. To understand why, think of your car as a bicycle, and its engine as your legs.
THINK PEDAL POWER
Put your bike in first (the easiest) gear, and you can easily pedal to your maximum rpm. You probably aren’t going very fast, but you can really spin the pedals. A lighter bike, more aerodynamic position, or reduced rolling resistance won’t help you go any faster, since your legs are already going as fast as they can. So you up shift the bike to a taller gear ratio, and you go faster, and you keep up shifting and going faster until the gear ratio is too tall for the strength of your legs to overcome. The same thing is going on in your RC car. Unless your modification increases the motor’s or engine’s rpm, your car won’t go faster. But if you make it more powerful (or free up more power by diverting less to fighting inertia and rolling resistance), your powerplant will be able to turn a taller gear ratio for more speed just like an Olympic cyclist is able to go faster because he has stronger legs to turn a bigger gear on his bicycle.
PUTTING IT TO WORK IN RC
There are two ways to gear up an RC car for more speed: install a pinion or clutch bell with more teeth or a spur gear with fewer teeth. This will make your car roll farther with each turn of the engine’s crank or the motor’s output shaft and thus increase speed. Try going up two teeth maximum on the clutch bell, or up to four teeth on the pinion gear. Don’t overdo it; if you gear the car too high, you’ll strain the powerplant, and you may actually go slower. Check your manual for suggested gear ratio ranges. Credits: Aaron Waldronhttp://http://Remote Control Toys on Sale
HUGE SPEEDS ON A SMALL SCALE!
2.2 HORSEPOWER FOR MAXIMUM FUN
World Champion Drifter Vaughn Gittin Jr. and the Need for Speed crew teamed up to build this one-of-a-kind, fully-functional Street, Track and Drift machine, and this is the official, authorized RC nitro replica, powered by HPI Nitro muscle! While Vaughn will be the only one thrashing the full-size car, the entire world will be able to enjoy driving the HPI Nitro 1/10th version: The Nitro RS4 3 Evo+! With the 1969 Mustang RTR-X body on our super-popular Nitro on-road platform, you’ll get a combination that will inspire tire-burning, smoke-churning fun for grins and speed wherever you go!
With a stiff aluminum chassis, 4WD shaft drivetrain and adjustable oil-filled shock absorbers, the Nitro RS4 3 Evo+ is a scaled-down race car for the street – the perfect foundation for a tire-smoking muscle car like the real 1969 Mustang RTR-X! The Nitro RS4 3 Evo+ is built from the ground up for speed, durability and performance, and with its Ready To Run ease you can be off and running within minutes of opening the box!
This car is loaded with goodies: a 2.2hp HPI T3.0 engine fitted with an adjustable 2-speed transmission for ground-stomping acceleration and superfast top speeds, full-time 4WD for supreme control and acceleration, steel shaft drivetrain that lets you shrug off road debris that would halt a belt-drive car in its tracks,waterproof electronics so you don’t have to worry about wet conditions and a 2.4GHz radio system that lets you have worry-free fun!
Vortex SS 1/10 Scale Nitro Desert Truck
Hold on tight! There’s a Vortex coming. Complete with full fendered body, scale off road tires, and beefy front and rear bumpers, the Vortex SS is ready to throw down.
A 3.0cc SH-18 nitro engine, precisely tuned aluminum exhaust pipe, and performance header provide the power and precision needed to blow away the competition.
Completely adjustable pillow ball suspension provides smooth performance for any terrain.
The Vortex SS has many blue anodized aluminum parts including its 2.5mm chassis, race adjustable shock towers, tunable oil filled coil over shocks, and heat sink. Not only will the Vortex SS be screaming around the track or blasting over dunes, it’ll look good doing it.
The 2-speed transmission allows crazy amounts of low end torque, while still providing blistering 2nd gear top speeds. Easily adjust the shift point,with the turn of a screw. Composite disc brakes and a 2.4GHz radio system ensure control, while shaft driven 4WD provides the traction needed to create a Vortex of excitement!