Tagged: RC Racing

Traxxas 5707 Spartan VXL with Castle System and 2.4GHz Radio

It’s the kind of boat you would expect from Traxxas: Extreme Velineon® brushless power, ballistic speed, and a huge waterfall of roost that rains down long after the boat speeds by. The howling fury of 50+ mph across the water on optional 6S LiPo power will make even the most insatiable, power-hungry enthusiasts jump up and take notice. Simply put, Spartan is your boat! Everything about it means business: the super-rigid, 36-inch deep-V hull; smooth, cable-drive efficiency; innovative water cooling system; and precision aluminum and stainless steel drive controls.                                               The clean, modern hull design is built up in layers for maximum rigidity where it matters most, the transom and ride pad. The integrated battery trays securely hold a variety of battery configurations—from the included 7-cell Power Cell NiMH packs to 3S LiPos. Ride trim is easily adjusted by positioning the packs fore and aft using the convenient hook and loop straps that secure the batteries.                                                                                                                                                                                                                The optimized rudder configuration carves amazing full-throttle turns. A high-output 2.4GHz radio system, along with water-cooled and waterproof electronics, keep Spartan going for the trouble-free, all-day running you count on from Traxxas. No detail was overlooked on our mission to engineer a boat that offers the power, speed, convenience, and fun that Traxxas’ award-winning cars and trucks are known for. Prepare yourself for the ultimate R/C boating power trip, only from Traxxas.                   

100% Ready-To-Race®

Spartan is fully assembled with a TQi™ 2.4GHz radio system, Velineon brushless power system, applied graphics, and detailed instructions. Two Traxxas Power Cell 7-cell NiMH batteries are also included. Designed specifically for the high-power needs of the Velineon brushless system, the potent Power Cell packs feature heavy-duty construction, 12-gauge wires and patented Traxxas’ High-Current Connectors for efficient power transfer, run after run. Traxxas backs the Spartan and all of our products with industry-leading support that is second to none. A staff of skilled representatives is on-hand to answer your questions via phone, website, or e-mail. Unmatched parts support allows Spartan to be serviced with parts and support from thousands of hobby dealers worldwide. Your investment is also protected by the Traxxas Lifetime Electronics Warranty. Traxxas goes the extra mile to ensure that your R/C experience is easy and fun—and fast!

The World’s Most Advanced Ready-To-Race® Radio System

Spartan is equipped with the world’s most advanced Ready-To-Race® radio system. The Traxxas® TQi™ arrives with a full complement of tuning features and offers the unbeatable convenience of “no channels, no crystals” 2.4GHz technology—but that’s just the beginning. Automatic model recognition instantly recalls your settings for up to 30 Traxxas Link-enabled models. Just switch on and drive, no naming or “model memory” settings required. Power up the transmitter and the model you want to drive, and the settings for that model are dialed in immediately! The new TQi 2.4GHz transmitter is fully adjustable: steering and throttle end points can be set precisely, and the Multi-Function knob can be programmed to control Steering Sensitivity (Expo), Throttle Sensitivity (Expo), Steering Percentage (Dual Rate), Braking Percentage (Dual Rate), or Throttle Trim. TQi’s ergonomic case design provides all-day driving comfort, and the unique internal antenna contributes to its sleek, modern look.

TQi Docking Base Compatible

The TQi’s most important feature may already be in your pocket. The TQi can be equipped with an optional Docking Base (#6510) that turns your iPhone® or iPod touch® (sold separately) into a powerful tuning tool for your Traxxas model. The full-color display combines with the free Traxxas Link™ App (on the App Store) to deliver an intuitive, high-definition, full-color graphical user interface that unlocks the mysteries of optimizing your radio system for ultimate vehicle control. Traxxas Link also opens the door to telemetry capability when you add optional sensors to your model. Click on one of the following links to learn more about the ground-breaking

QUICK FEATURES ON SPARTAN (#5707)

  • 30+mph out of the box, 50+mph on 6S LiPo!

  • 36″ deep-V hull for stable high-speed performance

  • Water-cooled, waterproof VXL-6s Marine speed control

  • 6S LiPo compatible with built-in Low-Voltage Detection

  • Traxxas High-Current Connectors (patented)

  • Velineon 540XL high-output brushless motor with highflow water-cooling jacket

  • Quick-release Power Module integrates power system, waterproof electronics, and stuffing tube

  • Adjustable battery trays with hook-and-loop straps

  • Blue-anodized aluminum rudder support, rudder, and drive strut

  • Stainless steel turn fins, trim tabs, and hardware

  • TQi 2.4GHz radio system

  • Includes two 7-cell Power Cell battery packs

  • Waterproof high-torque steering servo

  • Sleek design with factory-applied graphics

  • Ready-To-Race®

  • Traxxas factory support

  MODEL 5707: Fully assembled, Ready-To-Race®, TQi™ 2.4GHz radio system,
Velineon® 540XL Brushless Motor, VXL-6s Marine ESC and factory-applied graphics.                                                                                                                                           http://

  

FAZER Vei Fathom Blue 1970 Chevelle SS 454 LS6

One of the iconic muscle cars in American history is now part of the popular Fazer VEi line of brushless-powered, hobby-grade RC cars from Kyosho – the 1970 Chevy Chevelle SS! The Chevelle has always been part of the muscle car elite, but the 1970 SS model with the LS6, pumping out 450 horsepower right out of the showroom, was the most popular Chevelle of all. Available in two of the most popular colors for the Chevelle, Cranberry Red and Phantom Blue, this machine has many of the features of the full size car, and better in some cases! It comes completely factory assembled, and it’s ready to roll as soon as four AA alkaline batteries are installed in the transmitter. This car features scale speed an acceleration that exceeds that of the real car, but one thing that is very similar to that of the real car, are the stunning lines of the body. The super scale body that’s included with the Chevelle is factory-painted, and clear body kits ready to be painted any color, will also be available.                                                                                                                                               The Fazer VEi is built for enthusiasts with beginner to intermediate skill levels. It features a hobby-grade chassis that is durable, customizable, and can be modified for any level of performance. More modern 4-wheel independent suspension soaks up the bumps with the assistance of oil-dampened coil-over shocks. Industry-standard 12mm hubs are use to fit the wheels, which makes the Fazer compatible with hundreds of types of wheels and tires made for cars of this scale. Ball bearings support the entire drive system, ensuring that the Chevelle runs as smooth and efficiently as possible. The Fazer also features a 4WD drivetrain to bridge the reality gap between the full size car and the RC version. The power-to-weight ratio of the RC version is considerably stronger than that of the real car, and as a result, a 2WD version of the car would be very difficult to control. The 4WD system handles almost everything you can throw at it, and then some. It’s even ready for optional motors and ESCs that are much more powerful, and that will produce freakishly high speeds.                                                                                              The Fazer VEi includes the Team Orion dDrive. This is an integrated power system that enhances the output of the 4-pole brushless motor by installing the Electronic Speed Controller inside the motor. By eliminated the wires that normally connect a standard motor to an external speed controller, it reduces resistance, which in turn increases power and efficiency. The entire package is powered by the included Team Orion 1800 mAh Ni-Mh battery (with a basic AC wall charger), but the dDrive system can handle aftermarket big capacity Li-Po batteries for longer, and noticeably more powerful performance if you think you’re ready.                                                                                     Wheelbase extended 14mm longer than standard EP FAZER. Works in combination with the dDrive system to deliver power and stability.                             1800mAh NiMh battery and wall charger included.                                                    d-Drive all in one brushless ESC & Motor system.                                                               Drift tires are included for double the fun!                                                                     Syncro KT-231P features easy dial settings.                                                                  

Features light buckets that allow LED head lights and tail lights (both sold separately) to be easily bolted on for a truly scale look and feel.                            

FEATURES:

  • Chassis is fully factory assembled with a painted, trimmed and mounted body.

  • Syncro KT-231P 2.4 GHz radio system is included with a high-performance waterproof steering servo.

  • Sealed differentials and transmission delivers reliability and performance.

  • High performance 4-pole Team Orion Vortex dDrive system (Equivalent to 3000KV conventional motor)

  • Compatible with 2S LiPo batteries and pre-wired with a Super Connector.

  • Water-proof power system.

  • Aluminum motor/ESC case provides efficient cooling

  • Fully proportional steering and throttle control. No “steps” in the controls or “choppy” movement.

  • Overheat protection and battery low voltage cut-off systems.

  • 1970 Chevy Chevelle body officially licensed by General Motors.

  • New “true-to-scale” body with detailed molded parts like front and rear grills, side mirrors, fuel cap, etc.

  • Designed to use an optional LED light set for the most realistic action at cruise night!

  • Includes Team Orion 1800NiMh Battery pack and Kyosho wall charger

  • Features a longer wheelbase for more stability and improved scale appearance.

  • Onboard receiver is protected from dust and debris.

SPECIFICATIONS:

  • Length: 19.3 in. (489mm)

  • Width: 8.2 (207mm)

  • Height: 5.4 in. (138mm)

  • Wheelbase: 10.8 in. (274mm)

  • Tread (F/R): 6.9 in. (174mm)

  • Tire Width : 1 in. (26mm)

  • Tire Diameter : 2.7 in. (68.5mm)

  • Weight Approx 3.75 lbs. (1700g)

  • Gear Ratio: 6.34:1

READYSET BOX CONTENTS:

  • Factory assembled chassis

  • Painted, trimmed and mounted body

  • Syncro KT-231P 2.4 GHz radio transmitter

  • Team Orion 1800 mAh Ni-MH battery pack

  • AC wall charger with international plug adapters (Do NOT use for Li-Po batteries)

REQUIRED FOR OPERATION:

  • Four (4) AA-size alkaline batteries for the radio transmitter

 

AUDI R8 1/6-SCALE AWD SUPERCAR

  The Losi® Audi R8 LMS ultra puts you in charge of a no-holds-barred supercar that matches its great looks with equally impressive features. If speed is what you desire most in an RC car, then look no further.                                                                                                                

At a Glance

The Audi R8 LMS ultra created by the Belgian W-Racing Team was designed to do one thing, go head-to-head in GT3 class racing against the world’s best. The 1/6-scale AWD Losi® Audi R8 LMS ultra honors the W-Racing Team’s creation with an impressive scale model that puts you in charge of a no-holds-barred RC supercar. If speed is what you desire most, then look no further. Featuring a massive 1200Kv brushless motor typically found in 1/5-scale vehicles and an impressive 160A ESC, the Audi R8 LMS ultra surpasses nearly every other RC supercar on the market with speeds of 60+ MPH. To help manage this outrageous power, Spektrum™ AVC® (Active Vehicle Control™) technology has been included. Using AVC you can dial in extra directional stability and throttle control and harness the ridiculous power of this impressive supercar.                                                                                                              

Losi™ 6IX™ Platform

Losi platforms are standouts in the world of RC driving; the 6IX platform is no different. This chassis design is ideal for the trials and tribulations of a supercar and features a solid 3mm aluminum build and shaft-driven AWD drivetrain                                                           

Dynamite® 1200Kv Brushless Motor

Typically reserved for larger vehicles the motor of the Audi R8 LMS ultra delivers brutal speeds and acceleration when you need it most for ballistic top speeds and mind bending drifting.                                                                                                                                                                      

Dynamite® Waterproof Brushless ESC

This unbeatable supercar comes well-equipped for the trials and tribulations of up to 6S of dual LiPo battery power with a Dynamite® 160A ESC pre-wired for with EC5™ connectors. Best of all, the waterproof nature of this ESC means weather won’t slow you down whenever you get the urge to drive or drift.                                                                                    

AVC® Enhanced Spektrum™ SRS4201 Receiver

Thanks to the inclusion of AVC , you can maximize the ridiculous power that’s packed into the Losi Audi R8. Genuine AVC (Active Vehicle Control) technology and extended range 2.4GHz connectivity ensure you can experience interference-free driving, even from afar.  

Impressive Scale Body

From its hood to its spoiler, the attention to detail paid to this supercar body borders on obsessive. To help evoke the look and appeal of its inspiration scale details including official graphics, molded grill, mirrors, canards, diffuser, and splitter put this model miles ahead of other supercars.                                     

Spektrum™ DX2E V3 Transmitter

The Spektrum™ DX2E V3 transmitter features extended range DSMR technology and superior comfort as well as AVC compatibility.                                                                                        

Large Monster Truck Inspired Tires and Chrome Wheels

Massive 6.9 in diameter wheels compliment the monster appearance of the LST XXL 2 and facilitate maximum traction in the most punishing of environments. A custom black chrome finish gives added appeal even while the LST XXL 2 is blurring by at breakneck speeds.                                                                                                                                                                       

18mm Aluminum, Adjustable, Oil-filled, Coilover Shocks

The oversized threaded-aluminum, oil-filled, coil-over shocks on the Losi Audi R8 are built to be as dependable and durable as possible and are optimized for enhanced performance. Threaded bodies and collars allow for easy adjustments and fine tuning.        

   http://www.kqzyfj.com/click-8004097-10881098

Pro Boat Recoil Self-Righting Deep V Brushless: RTR Toy Boat, 17″

The Recoil® 17 Deep-V makes pushing the limits of brushless boating easier than ever before with a revolutionary hull that will never leave you “up a creek without a paddle”. Thanks to an intuitive self-righting Deep-V system, you can push a 2950Kv brushless motor and LiPo ready 30A ESC to the edge without hesitancy. In the event you put the Recoil upside down; a self-right hull makes flipping the Deep-V over as easy as hammering the throttle down. With its outstanding package and self-righting hull, Deep-V fun has never been as easy as it is with the Pro Boat Recoil.                                                            boat16

FEATURES

1/10 2.4Ghz Exceed RC Rally Monster Nitro Gas Powered RTR Off Road Rally Car 4WD Truck Carbon Orange

Exceed RC Rally Truck Radio Car 1/10 2.4Ghz Short Course Rally Monster .18 Engine 2-Speed Nitro Gas Powered RTR Ready to Run Off Road Rally Car 4WD Truck Stripe Blue RC Remote Control Car                                                                          car1

The heart of the Rally Monster Nitro truck line has always been a .18 engine with reliable and consistent power for tough off-road driving. With revised porting and crankshaft, internal airflow has been optimized for increased power and torque. With the new design 2.4Ghz remote control pistol transmitter is every RC Car Driver dream to get their hands on a full-range 2.4Ghz system.                                                                          car2

FEATURE HIGHLIGHTS:

RTR 100% factory assembled with installed engine and radio gear makes getting started easy The 2.5mm lightweight aluminum alloy chassis provides excellent performance and durability
New lightweight suspension arms deliver quick suspension response and reduce the critical sprung weight and overall weight of the car Oil filled shocks with firm tuned springs keep the wheels on the ground
The new .18 engine features a new crankcase and upgrades to the cylinder, piston, connecting rod and crankshaft, delivers more power, more torque and extra cooling                                      car5

2-Speed transmission for fast acceleration and insane top end speed High capacity fuel tank with perfect caliber makes it impossible to overflow and provides long run times

car4                car11

Excellent differential system design provides quick access to the front or rear differential by removing only few screws. You can now access the front and rear differential for easy maintenance


High capacity fuel tank with perfect caliber makes it impossible to overflow and provides long run times

http://    http://

The (almost) COMPLETE Guide to Electric RC Cars

Hey everyone I’m back for one final Instructable…or one of the last at least. I have recently gotten into the hobby of RC cars and at first I didn’t know too much about, well basically everything. I have decided to help everyone else out by sharing everything I have learned over the last year. And by the way, I appreciate positive comments since this is still a work in progress.  car35

Step 1: The Brands                                                                                      These are some of the biggest brands to choose from for buying an rc car. I know there are plenty more but these seem to be the most popular.

TRAXXAS
Traxxas cars are very fast, durable, and high quality. If you buy one of these, you will very rarely need to replace broken or worn parts. However, these cars and trucks start at about $300 and do not always include a battery pack and charger. To buy visit www.traxxas.com

Exceed
Out of all of these, Exceed cars are the cheapest, but they often require spare parts and a rather high level of maitenence. I own an exceed, so I can personally tell you to only get an exceed if you do not want to spend a lot of money and you are willing to pay $10 for shipping every time a few pieces break. The cars start at $90 and are most of the parts are good quality. To buy visitwww.nitrorcx.com

HPI
HPI cars are not all that popular, mostly because they are as expensive as Traxxas but not as good quality. There is not much I can say about them other than from what I’ve read they have good quality parts and will not need many replacements. To buy visit www.nitrorcx.com or www.hpiracing.com

Tamiya
Tamiya is the classic RC car brand. They’ve been making good cars for more than 30 years. I own the Grasshopper from about 1984 or something but its actually really nice. I have never broken a part on it and I’ve been driving it offroad for a year now. They start around $200 but are reasonably slower than other brands for that price due to the classical “Low-Tech” designs. To buy visit www.tamiya.com

Team Associated
Coming soon

Losi
Coming soon

Step 2: The Car Types  car36car37car38car39car40                                                 There are about 5 car types. I am not going to explain too much about each since they seem rather straightforward.

STREET
These are your average street cars. They are the fastest and the best on paved, flat surfaces. Do not get this if you are looking to drive in your backyard or want something with more power.

DRIFT
Drift cars are like on-road cars but with slick tires. YOu can slide around turns and still get almost as fast as an on-road car. They are good if regular cars bore you but you like to drive fast. Drifting is hard, however, so be warned.

BUGGY
Buggies are a cross between offroad and onroad cars. They are the second fastest on road but the slowest offroad usually due to their low wheelbase. Buggies are good for those who cant decide what type of car they want, since they can use it for both.

TRUGGY
Truggies are also a crossover like buggies, but they are more for the offroad. It basically takes the frame of a Buggy and puts monster truck tires on it. These are the 3rd fastest on road and the 2nd slowest off.

TRUCKS
Trucks are your monster trucks. They are amazing offroad but very slow onroad. They may flip a lot when trying to make high speed turns so these are not the best for on road and you should get these if you want to drive in the woods or in the grass the most.

Step 3: Electric or Nitro                                                                           car41car42                                                                  Now that you know the brands and types of rc cars its time to decide if you want to go with electric or nitro. Here are some of the advantages and disadvantages of each.

Electric
cheaper
“cleaner”
Less Maintence
Better for at-home use
Cars have faster acceleration in general
Limited run times
need to wait hours to recharge batteries
Brushless motors are expensive

Nitro
Longer run times
nice sound
Need to buy gas
Smells bad (my opinion)
a little more expensive to buy the car
cars are more complex (more can go wrong)

Step 4: Electric Motors and ESC                                                                                      car43car44       There are two different types of rc motors. Brushed and Brushless. Each motor type has its own kind of ESC (Electronic Speed Controller). Without an esc, your motor would just do nothing or go full throttle when you wanted to drive. Brushed motors are cheap but very ineffecient and lact power. The ESC’s are also cheaper. Brushless motors are efficient, powerful, fast, and last much longer. Brushless motors and ESC’s do not really have an expiration date, while brushed usually last about 6 months to a year. The main visual difference between the two is the brushless is sealed completely and has three wires, while the brushed has ventilation holes and two wires.

Step 5: Brushless upgrades                                                                    car42                                                                MOTOR RATING

brushless motors are labeled with two things, a large number followed by “kv” and a smaller number followed by “t”. Basically, you need to check the ESC for that motor and read up a little. It will tell u what numbers followed by “t” will be good for your use. So if you want it offroad you will want more “t”, but you will get less “kv”. On-road is the opposite.

KV stands for the amount of rotations per minute per volt. So if this basically means the bigger the number, the faster your car will go. Just make sure if you want your car to drive good offroad you get a motor with the correct “t”.

For example, my brushless motor was a 6000kv 5.5t brushless combo. I checked the ESC and it said you need greater than or equal to 5.5t for on road and greater than or equal to 8.5t for offroad. I got an on-road motor so i could go fast (about 45mph). If you wanted to go offroad you could buy the 4000kv 8.5t motor, which goes about 35mph but has more power. If you do not understand something here pm me. I will be glad to help.

Step 6: Electric Car Layout                                                                                                car45car46                       This is the basic layout for exceed 1/10th scale rc cars and trucks. It has all the parts of other brands but the other brands have things in different places..

Step 7: LiPo or Ni-Mh                                                                                batt1batt2                                                                   Most of the time when you buy a car they come with a battery, but some may not. If that happens, you may be faced with this choice, LiPo or Ni-Mh. LiPo battery packs are the batteries of the future and if given the chance, make the investment. For $10 more you can get a battery pack which will give not only longer run times but also more power. They also do not lose their charge over time. Ni-Mh batteries are cheaper and “safer” (LiPo batteries CAN explode if improperly charged) but in the long run they are not worth it. Spend a few extra dollars and save a lot in the long run.

LiPo batteries are rated by two numbers, and Ni-Mh are rated with only one
the mAh of the battery packs is the capacity of the batteries. The larger the better.

Only LiPo’s are rated with “c” which is basically how fast they can deliver the power. Most battery packs are between 20-30c but you can find some that are 5000mAh 50c battery packs (those are VERY expensive; ~$50) or even an 8000mAh 50c battery pack (around $100) but BE CAREFUL!! Make sure you but a battery pack that will fit in your car!! Some battery packs are larger!

Step 8: How to pick the right car.                                                        car38                                                Okay if you are buying an rc car this is how you should pick it out

pick an answer and go to the # in parenthesis. If there is a hyperlink in parenthesis click it and that is the car or cars that fit you best. (Note. I am including 1/10th rc cars only. These are the “Standard” size but feel free to either go smaller (1/16) or larger (up to 1/5)

1. I want to have a family friendly car that i can drive immediatly when i want to (2)
I want a car that is a little faster but dont mind taking more time to prep and costs more (11)

2. I want a durable car and am willing to spend more money (3)
I want a cheap car that may break in the future (7)

3. I want an offroad car (4)
I want an onroad car (6)
I want something inbetween (5)

4. I want a fast car (E-MaxxSlash_VXL, or Stampede_VXL )
I want a slower but cheaper car (Summit,Slash, StampedeE-Maxx, or a Tamiya )

5. I want a fast car (E-Revo_Brushless,Rustler_VXL,Bandit_VXL)
I want a slower but cheaper car (E-Revo, Rustler, Bandit, or a Tamiya)

6. I want a fast car (Get a brushless HPI on-road car or drift car)
I want a slower but cheaper car (Get a brushed HPI on-road car or drift car)

7. I want an offroad car (8)
I want an onroad car (9)
I want something inbetween (10)

8.  I want a fast car (Rally Monster_Pro or Dynamite-Pro)
I want a slower but cheaper car (Rally Monster or Dynamite)

9. I want a fast car (Champion_Pro or Drift_Star_Pro)
I want a slower but cheaper car (Champion or Drift_Star)

10. I want a fast car (Sunfire_Pro)
I want a slower but cheaper car (Sunfire)

11. If you want a nitro car you’re on your own. sorry.

Look I know there are pleanty more choices for each section but I just wanted to give everyone an idea about what the car they want may look like and so on. There are more cars you can buy then I listed so please understand that.

You’re all done. Now go research the the cars that match your style and find out which one to buy. It is smart to research simmilar cars also. Just keep in mind what you will want for the future. I made this mistake and now I have to pay a lot more money to maintain my car.

Step 9: Recommended Accessories and final tips. car47                       I would definintely recommend buying a complete extra set of tires for your car and some CA glue the day and minute you buy your rc car. The tires wear very quick so be prepared. I highly recommend making an investment when you buy your car and get a good quality one. I promise you it will pay off in the long run. I know from experience and I believe that over about a 2-3 year period, the amound of money spent on most cars and spare parts, no matter what the quality, will be about the same. Dont be a cheapskate…unless you are under 18. If you are not sure on the car you want to get there are pleanty of forums out there about the specific car you may want. Please just research before you purchase, I don’t want anyone crying to me because I said they shoud get this car and they hate it.

Step 10: More coming soon!!                                                                                             Credits:http://www.instructables.com/    http://  Shop Amazon – Give the Gift of Amazon Prime

Short Course Racing Tips—5 Tips For Faster Laps

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Anyone with any racing experience will tell you that jumping from class to class isn’t as easy as just selecting a new model on your transmitter and picking up a new truck. And, many people think that because the scale appeal of short course attracts so many newcomers to the hobby that the class is for beginners and thus easy. The point is that short course racing takes just as much skill as any other class and even experienced racers can have a hard time adapting and succeeding. If you want to run at the front of the pack, check out these five tips:

 

1. Momentum

Racing is all about going fast, right? Well, if you’re constantly flying into corners, spraying dirt everywhere and ripping down the straights, you’re doing it wrong. You might feel like you’re going really fast and that may work to some degree with an overpowered truggy, but it’s the slow way to get a short course truck around the track. This is especially true if you’re in the 17.5-turn class. You can get away with a little bit of a heavy-handed driving style with 4WD class short course truck, but it is essential that you drive smoothly.  You should drive like you have an egg strapped to your truck. Drive smoothly and try to keep your truck always rolling.

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2. Stay Out of Trouble

I lot of people think short course is the class where it’s OK to beat and bash. Let them think that and let them smash into each other. Just keep your distance and let the action unfold—don’t be a part of it. You’ll lose far less time by slightly hanging back in comparison to getting involved in a wreck. Think about the time you lose when you crash and then have to wait for a corner marshal as compared to when you just ease back a bit and wait for the right time to make a move. We’re talking the difference between ten seconds and a tenth of a second or maybe the difference between first and third.                                             car32

3. Passing vs. Catching

There’s a difference? There very much is a difference between catching someone and passing them, but you’d never know it watching the typical RC race. Most racers just race as fast as they can try to get around people as they catch them. It sounds good, but catching and passing are simply two different acts. When you catch someone think about whether you’re at a good place to pass. Some slow cars can be blown by down the straight, but keep in mind that a phenomenon called target fixation almost always occurs when you try to pass someone on the straight. They focus on your car and essentially subconsciously drive right into. It looks like they’re trying to squeeze you off the straight, but usually it’s just an unintended rookie type mistake. The point is it’s almost always better to pass in corners. Drivers of equal ability will take some work (that’s what makes racing fun), but there is usually a corner or two they go wide on and most newer drivers are usually easy to pass on the corner going into the main straight as the almost always fly in wide and get back on the gas too soon. Just slow to the inside and out accelerate the on exit.                                                                                                                                                  car30

4. Like a Sports Car

Short course trucks are just like sports cars. Makes perfectly good sense…if you have experience with the racing of full-size cars—either as a driver or an entrenched fan. You see, sports car or road course racers know that you brake in straight lines and accelerate in corners. This is the foundation of proper performance driving. You should be 100% done slowing down before you get to a corner and you should be accelerating through and out of the corner.                                                                                                         car33

5. Practice Smart

There may be no such thing as bad practice, but some practice is definitely better than others. Most racers get their practice in by showing up early on race day. They’ll get there hours before they really need to and then spend most of that time shooting the bull with the other “diehards” that show up at the crack of dawn. When the early birds do hit the track it’s on a dry track that is nothing like the one they’ll race on. Experimenting with tires and setup at this stage is completely pointless as while that practice is valuable, the track is simply nowhere near race shape. It’s far better to stay late and drive on the track after racing has concluded. Check with the race director first, but most don’t mind and you’ll be running on a track in is much closer to race condition. This is the time to try every tire combo you can think of and mess with your shocks.                                                                                                                                         car34                                                                                                             Credits:  http://rctruckstop.com/   http://

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RC General Buying Decisions

veh1Radio controlled vehicles/craft can be fairly cleanly divided into two categories, toy and hobby-level. The toy type are what most people think of when you mention “RC” — buy-and-drive playthings that you can purchase from a toy or electronics store. These are made strictly for the sake of fun. Then there are the more sophisticated and capable models targeted towards hobbyists who want to go faster, tinker with settings and upgrades, and perhaps participate in one of the many levels of established competitive events. Neither class of RC is necessarily “better” — they each have their positive and negative qualities. However, when you’re first starting out, it’s very worthwhile to choose which way you want to go up front, long before you pull out your credit card. This article presents the most important facts that can help you make an informed decision.                                                                                                                                            

Cost

Toy R/C cars & trucks that you can buy at places like Toys R Us or Walmart start at $20-25 USD, and the most extreme ones top out around $150. Toy R/C planes start at around $30. When you step up to the hobby level, you’ll be hard pressed to find something complete for under $130. It’s very easy to spend $400-500 on a 1/10th scale car or truck that will last awhile, and a fully upgraded rig can easily shoot up to $2,000-3,000 USD.

Speed

In most cases, there’s really no comparison between the performance of toy and hobby-level RCs. Most toy cars & trucks will go anywhere from 5mph to 15mph, with the fastest few doing 20-24mph. Hobby-level RCs generally start at 15-25mph for electrics and 25-35mph for nitro versions. You can get monster trucks that will do over 40mph out of the box, and low-slung street cars that will do over 60 with no upgrades or modifications. In planes, the toys generally go around 5-15mph, while there are hobby-class craft that will do 30, 50, even 80mph in factory stock form. The most extreme speed differences are in boats. The toys often putt and crawl along at 1-5mph, while the hottest hobby-level racing boats will skim the surface at over 100mph

Durability

Mostly because they’re slow, toy RCs tend to handle more abuse than their more expensive cousins. The most common things to break are bumpers and body trim. The land and water-borne vehicles are built with a lot more material than is necessary, while aircraft tend to be constructed of foam and flexible plastics that bounce back after being bent. However…

When they break…

Repairing a toy RC is sometimes not worth the time & effort. Nearly all use multifunction circuit boards that combine several major functions, so if something goes electrically wrong, you have to change out the whole thing. Most manufacturers don’t have a factory service program, so you have to do the work yourself. Many don’t even offer a way to order new parts. Nikko is a notable exception. You can call them, tell them exactly what vehicle you have, describe the problem, and order precisely the part(s) you need. Many RC’s available at Radio Shack are actually from Nikko and are covered by this same level of support, with the additional convenience of being able to go back to the store and special-order your parts in person.

Fixing hobby-level RCs is, in most cases, a completely different affair. You can disassemble anything yourself. With most popular brands there are manuals and exploded views. There are service departments that handle returns of defective components. Electronics are, with rare exception, separated by function so that you don’t have to change your speed controller if your radio receiver crystal goes bad. Parts are available at brick-and-mortar hobby shops and dozens of trusted, popular web sites. There are online forums (message boards) where you can ask other hobbyists for advice and learn from their experience. veh2

Upgradability

These days, ever more toy RCs have upgrades available for purchase from the original manufacturer, particularly amongst the smaller “micro” cars and trucks. These upgrades can range from different body kits to stickier tires to faster motors. They’re generally very easy to install, requiring at most a small screwdriver (which is often included) and 15 minutes, and can dramatically change the look or performance of the vehicle. They’re also great fun to install and let the owner add a bit of their own personality.

The most popular hobby RCs may have literally hundreds of upgrades available from many different aftermarket sources (companies other than the original manufacturer). Among the available upgrades may be anything from scale-realistic wheels to anodized aluminum struts in various colors to larger motors/engines to total conversion kits that fundamentally change the vehicle. Many hobby-level RC parts are reusable from one vehicle to another, especially electronic components and motors/engines. Popular RC models come with the support of other owners nationwide or around the world who share their experiences, tips, and home-grown modifications freely on the Internet.

Controllability

Toy radio systems traditionally give you forward/reverse (or up/down) and left/right direction control. A growing number of cars & trucks these days now have “digital proportional” steering to boot, which gives you a number of steps between neutral and full turning, depending upon how far you turn the wheel or push the stick on the radio transmitter. Some, though, only let you go straight forward or to turn one pre-set direction in reverse. Toy helicopters are what you have to watch out for the most, as these sometimes give you only one axis of control — go straight up, or come straight down. Most toy RC’s are still only available on two frequencies (e.g., 27mhz and 49mhz in the US), with a few now offering 3 to 6 possibilities. This limits the number of vehicles that can run at one time, but more unfortunately it reduces the possibility of even being able to run two random vehicles together.

Hobby-class radio systems give you 64 to 256 (or more) steps of control in each direction for what feels like perfectly smooth turning & throttle control. These systems can also be easily changed between anywhere from 6 to 30 different frequencies, so even if the one person you want to race against or fly with has an absolutely identical radio setup, for around $20 and with a one-minute part swap, you’re both in the clear. Still better, the most recent generation of radio systems, while expensive, operate on an extremely high frequency and use small computer chips to automatically search for and lock onto an open channel, ensuring that you’ll never have a frequency conflict.

Raceability

Toy RCs can be raced between siblings or friends around the neighborhood, but there’s generally no sanctioned racing. Hobby-level RCs are raced around the world in local, regional, national, and even international events, even including multi-track tours.

Ownership

When all is said and done, the purchase decision between toy & hobby-level RCs should always come down to who the purchase is being made for. You don’t want to buy a $390, 45mph nitro-powered car for a 6-year-old. Likewise, a 16-year-old who wants to get into RC racing for sport wouldn’t be well-served by a $39 toy. What’s really interesting is the 26-year-old with a $25 micro-sized monster truck who would derive hours of fun from chasing his/her cat around the kitchen floor or gingerly driving around a makeshift desktop obstacle course during lunchtime at work. Before you buy an RC, know who you’re buying it for and do a little research. That extra time spent up front could make the difference between tremendous fun and awkward disappointment. Credits: http://www.beginningrc.com/ http://

Off-Road RC Car Tuning Guide

Need More Steering?
• Batteries – Move batteries towards the front of the vehicle.
• Front Shock Mounting – Move the lower shock mount towards the outside
• Front Camber Link – Longer camber links increase steering
• Front Ride Height – Lower the front ride height
• Rear Ride Height – Raise rear ride height for more high speed steering
• Rear Shock Mounting – Move upper mount towards outside
• Wheelbase – Lengthen the wheelbase for more steering
• Rear Toe-in – Decrease rear toe-in
• Ackerman – Use less Ackerman for more sensitive steering                                                                               offroad1                                                                                                             Need More Traction?
• Batteries – Move batteries towards the rear of the vehicle
• Rear Ride Height – Lower rear ride height
• Rear Camber – Less camber (0 -1 deg.)
• Camber Link – Longer camber links
• Rear Shock Mounting – Move upper mount towards the inside
• Wheelbase – Shorten the wheelbase
• Rear Toe-in – Increase rear toe-in
• Slipper – Loosen slipper so wheels don’t spin as much                                                                                             offroad2                                                                                                                 Need Better Jumping?
• Shock Oil – If bouncing too much or bottoms out over jumps, use heavier oil
• Shock Pistons – If bottoming out over jumps, use smaller hole pistons
• Rear Shock Mounting – If bottoming out over jumps move upper mount towards he outside
• Battery Position – If nose high during jumps, move battery forward, move rearward if nose is down during jumps
• Weight – Add weight to nose if it’s too high during jumps                                                                                     offroad3                                                                                                                              Need More High Speed Steering?
• Front Toe – More toe-in gives you more steering coming out of the corners
• Front Caster – Less caster gives you more steering exiting corners
• Rear Ride Height – Raise rear ride height for more high speed steering                                                            offroad4                                                                                                                    More Stable Over Rough Tracks?
• Anti-squat – Less anti-squat allows better acceleration on rough tracks
• Rear Camber – More negative camber is more stable on bumpy tracks
• Rear Camber Link – Shorter camber links is more stable on bumpy tracks
• Front Shock Mounting – Move lower shock mount inside for bumpy tracks
• Battery Mounting – Place in the middle for most stable on all tracks                                                                 offroad5                                                                                                                   Credits: rcracingusa.net  http://     

Water Drop Effect — Proline How to Paint series

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