For a limited time Tamiya releases our 1/14 scale R/C Tractor Truck Knight Hauler with a fully metal plated body. The metal plate finish gives the model a striking visual appearance. Finish can be further enhanced with one of our new Tamiya Spray colors (TS-72 Clear Blue, TS-73 Clear Orange, TS-74 Clear Red).
About the Knight Hauler
Since its release in 2003, the Knight Hauler has continued to be one of Tamiya’s top selling tractor trucks. The Knight Hauler features a ladder type chassis fitted with rigid axle front and rear suspension, RS540 motor, originally designed truck body, large roof spoilers, detailed interior and transparent orange lights. 3Speed Shifting Our Semi trucks and Highlifts use 3speed transmissions for more maneuverability and true scale realism. Whether you’re hauling a big load or climbing some rough terrain, the ability to shift into low gear can make the difference. High speed runs are no problem once you kick it into 3rd gear, when its time to move out!
Both vehicle types require a 4 channel stick type radio for full function. If you’re going to outfit your vehicle with one of our multifunction units (MFU), you will need to choose a analog radio. Shifting into gear is extremely easy once your transmission is adjusted correctly.
Below you will see the basic concept on how the servo moves the transmission into all three gears. It is best to get the transmission adjusted with your trims centered and only using the collar on the transmission rod to adjust final increments. This will allow for the best operation if you’re using a MFU unit. Make sure to use loctite on the grub screw in the collar to prevent having to readjust the transmission again. Taking a little extra time to set the transmission up will provide you with better performance and less adjustments down the road. Product Specifications(Specifications subject to change)
Shock damper material
Electronic Speed Control (ESC)
LED Light buckets
metal and plastic bushings
Adjustable toe angles
Adjustable ground clearance
Adjustable gear ratio
Adjustable track width
Adjustable shock angle
Special feature 1
Total length: 630mm Total width: 186mm Clearance: 19mm
SCX10 II™ 2000 Jeep® Cherokee 1/10th Scale Electric 4WD 2005 marked the birth of the Axial brand, and shortly after, thoughts about the first SCX10 began, with development wrapping up in 2008. The SCX10 was introduced to the world as a builders kit, paving the way, or better yet, raising the bar for a new generation of scale trail enthusiasts. Previously, hobbyists had to “scratch build” a rig which presented a lot of technical hurdles to overcome. The SCX10 kit gave these “artists” time to focus their attention on other things like personalization and visual customization by removing the issues scratch-built scale rigs presented. And, it wasn’t just as a great kit to build, it was also a very capable driving machine, making it the de facto scale rig the world over. The SCX10 chassis platform provided all the technical attributes as well as scale looks with its signature all-metal twin c-channel frame, solid performing transmission and axles that provided enough realism with capabilities to match. With the SCX10 II, we’ve kept essence of the SCX10 there with all-metal twin c-channel frame rails, but that’s only 2% of the 98% of a completely new design. Scale AR44 high pinion axles, a chassis mounted servo (CMS), re-designed transmission, front mounted battery tray, all aluminum suspension links, and a properly designed suspension for nearly zero bump steer. These are just a few of the features built into the all new SCX10 II.
The original AX10 axle was developed in 2007 for Axial’s first kit, the AX90001 Axial AX10 Scorpion RC Comp 10 – 1/10th Scale Rock Crawler – Electric Kit. In 2008, the AX10 axle was used in the SCX10 chassis, which paved the way for the scale trail scene.
While developing the next iteration of axles such as the AR60, we started thinking about what kind of axle would be more suited for the future of the SCX10. Our design of a new axle needed to feature three key points. First, we wanted the axle housing to visually quench the thirst of scale enthusiasts. Second, we needed to create a gear set with the technical attributes to overcome the torque twist that is often associated with smaller gear sets. Third, the axle itself needed to be durable.
After seven years of utilizing the original AX10 axle and two years of development, Axial is proud to introduce the industry’s first high pinion gear set in our newly developed AR44 axle! The next chapter of the Axial SCX10 begins with true technological engineering and scale realism!
AR44 HI-PINION AXLES
In 2008, the AX10™ axle was used in the launch of the SCX10™ chassis platform. While developing the next iteration of axles such as the AR60, the thought process began on what kind of axle would be best for the future of the SCX10™. Axial’s development of a new axle needed to feature three key design points. First, an axle housing to visually quench the thirst of scale enthusiasts. Second, a gear set with the technical attributes to overcome the torque twist often associated with smaller gear sets. Third, the axle itself needed to retain the durability associated with the SCX10™, despite being delivered in a smaller axle housing. After seven years of utilizing the original AX10™ axle and two years of development, Axial is proud to introduce our newly developed AR44 axle with the industry’s first high pinion gear set. The next chapter of the Axial SCX10™ begins with scale realism backed with true technological development!
• 8 degree kingpin angle • Improved scrub radius over the AX10 axleAR44 UNIVERSAL AXLE SET
Universal joint axles allow up to 45 degrees of steering and provide smoother action for a higher performing, efficient drivetrain.
• Up to 45 degrees of steering
• Smooth action for an efficient drivetrain
• Compact yet durable design
• Hardened steel construction SCX10 II™ TRANSMISSION
Scale looks on the outside, genuine Axial gears on the inside! The SCX10™ transmission received a design makeover with special attention paid towards aesthetics by mimicking a real transmission with a bell housing, oil pan and a 4X4 transfer case! And that’s just the beginning. By sitting the transfer case lower into the chassis and centering the driveshafts with the axle input housings, Axial has created a more efficient driveline with better driveshaft angles which puts less stress on moving parts. Better driveshaft angles coupled with hi-pinion axles IS scale realism backed with performance. Also includes full set of ball bearings and all metal internal gears for strength and durability.
• Transfer case design helps keep the driveshafts centered and as low as possible in the chassis
• Final drive ratio range 33.69 – 54.15 with available spur – pinion gear combinations
• Comes with 56T spur gear and 15T pinion / 32-pitch for durability
• All metal internal gears for strength and durability
• Final drive ratio (FDR) 40.44 with a range from 33.69 – 54.15 – Original SCX10 was 33.06
• Scale looks mimics a full size transmission and transfer case CHASSIS MOUNTED SERVO (CMS)
Scale matters, but so does geometry! In pursuit of scale looks, we’ve moved the servo off the top of the axle and onto the chassis, just as a full size truck has its steering box located on the frame. But with this seemingly simple action comes a complexity of suspension hurdles to overcome – one of which is bump steer. The undesirable steering is caused by bumps interacting with improper length or angle of suspension and steering links. We made it our mission to design the front suspension in such a way that it eliminates or comes as close as possible to zero bump steer, to help give you the best driving experience possible.
• Scale looks with proper suspension geometry
• Anodized aluminum links included w/ M4 rod ends
• Adjustable servo mounting system allows for a wide range of servos to be used
• Properly designed suspension for nearly zero bump steer ALL ALUMINUM SUSPENSION LINKS
The suspension geometry utilizes a 4-Link design for the rear which is optimized to reduce axle steer and torque twist. It also helps with steep off-camber climbs by having the proper amount of anti-squat and roll characteristics. The 4-Link system also aids against suspension wrap-up in high power applications.
• Wheelbase adjustment is easily done in the rear end without affecting the steering geometry and maintaining zero bump steer. • Adjustable wheelbase (11.4”/ 12.0” / 12.3”) (optional link kits sold separately) • 4 link rear • 12.3” wheelbase
STEEL C-CHANNEL FRAME RAIL CHASSIS
The realistic high strength c-channel chassis frame is made of durable steel with cross bracing for reinforcement and is held together with all hex hardware. Realistic looking frame and cross braces improve chassis rigidity (torsional stiffness). Realistic shock hoops with multiple shock mounting positions allows you to adjust your suspension for maximum performance. The simplified design makes maintenance and assembly quick and easy. The contoured skid plate significantly reduces hang-ups on terrain. Compared to the previous design, additional holes have been added to the rear portion of the frame rails for making wheelbase adjustments. JCR OFFROAD VANGUARD BUMPERS
Scale front and rear bumpers licensed by JCR Offroad.
• Rear mount has been extended and stiffer plastics chosen to help limit the typical sag seen in plastic bumpers
• Lenses included for light locations on bumpers
• Rear tow hitch included for added scale appearance ADJUSTABLE BATTERY TRAY
The new adjustable battery tray is now relocated lower and further forward for better weight distribution and center of gravity (COG).
• Adjustable tray that prevents the battery from coming loose or shifting while driving
• Posts are included to fine tune the fit based on the battery you choose
• Easy access for quicker battery changes
• Can accommodate batteries up to 32x44x147mm (3S 5,000 mAh) 1.9 BFGOODRICH ALL-TERRAIN T/A® KO2 TIRES – R35
What lies between the dirt and metal are the tires – your connection to the trail below. When it comes to tough terrain, adventure seekers reach for BFGoodrich All-Terrain T/A® KO2 tires for their dependability on the roughest backroads.
• Officially licensed by BFGoodrich
• 4.65” x 1.65” / 1.9 (118mm x 42.5mm)
• R35 compound
BFGoodrich® Tires and All-Terrain T/A® KO2 Trademarks are used under License from Michelin 1.9 METHOD MESH WHEELS
In an industry that’s all about the latest and greatest, while taking advantage of styling trends, sometimes the ‘less is more’ approach is quite refreshing and the mesh wheel offers just that. Clean, simple and METHOD STRONG! These officially licensed METHOD Mesh Wheels are replicated in true form for durability and a clean line look. ICON ALUMINUM SHOCKS
Fully licensed Icon Vehicle Dynamics™ shocks feature clear coated polished aluminum bodies, complete with aluminum faux reservoirs. The main body of the shock is threaded for quick ride height adjustments and pre-load tuning ability. Like their full size counterparts these shocks are completely rebuildable, tunable and offer consistent handling all while adding some of that Icon bling to your SCX10™ chassis.
• 61-90mm Aluminum Shock Set with 7mm piston WATERPROOF RECEIVER BOX / ESC TRAY
Three different silicone seals are included, one for the antenna, one for the servo wires (includes three slots for three channels), and one that acts as a gasket for the receiver box cover. No more stress when running in mud, water, or snow!
• Waterproof receiver box located on the side plates allows easy access and low center of gravity
• Clean mounting surface for your ESC is large enough to accommodate up to 50x40mm footprint WIRE ROUTING
Wire routing has been thoroughly thought through to help keep your chassis layout looking clean. In addition to including wire clips/guides, there has been a channel created that runs the length of the chassis so you can run additional wires hidden inside the c-channel frame.
• Optional mounting points and wire routing for a chassis mounted servo winch and 2 speed shift servo WB8 HD WILDBOAR™ DRIVESHAFTS
WB8 HD Wildboar™ front and rear driveshafts feature an updated design with a larger diameter cross pin (2x11mm) along with an M4 Screw Shaft (2mm hex drive) for added strength. A center splined slider floats between each end and features added material which reduces flex and fatigue.
• 3-piece driveshaft with strengthened slider-floater tube
• Increased surface at the connection between the ball joints and output shaft tubes
• 2x11mm cross pin adds 25% more surface area providing more strength for the ball joint
• Captured cross pin design eliminates older set screw design for more durability/easy maintenance
• Adjustable length driveline parts included in box DUAL SLIPPER CLUTCH
Our dual slipper design uses a pad on each side of the spur gear for added surface area. This allows for more precise tuning and holding power. The spur gear features strong, 32 pitch gearing for high torque applications.
• Slipper design uses a pad on each side of the spur gear for added surface contact area
• More precise tuning and holding power
• Strong 32P gear pitch for high torque applications JEEP® XJ BODY
Throughout the rich history surrounding the Jeep® brand, there have been several influential vehicles hailing from the seven-slot stable, one of which is the Jeep® Cherokee (XJ). Possibly considered as the dawn of the modern SUV, the XJ was first presented 1984 as one of the first small SUV’s introduced into the American market, which carried on until 2001. During its 17yr production run, the XJ was built on several continents for world wide exposure, offered in either a 2-door or 4-door configuration, available in several different trim levels along with either a 2wd or 4wd drivetrain. Under the hood featured three different engine options consisting of 2.5L I4 AMC (125hp @ 5400rpm and 150lb/ft of torque @ 3250rpm), 4.0L I6 OHC AMC (193hp@4600rpm and 231lb/ft of torque @ 3000rpm), and a Euro spec only turbo diesel I4 OHV (114hp@3900rpm and 221 lb/ft @ 2000rpm). In 97’, the XJ received a facelift that updated design queues focused on aerodynamics, body stiffness, styling as well as the spare tire being relocated from the rear bumper to inside the cab. The stiffer uni-body construction brought forth improvements in noise cancellation and vibrations while aerodynamics improved engine efficiency.
From an off-roading perspective, the XJ has proven to be a relatively inexpensive vehicle for purchase thus making it a value based build option, capable of suiting just about any sort of budget. Its bones are strong thanks to a Quadra-Link suspension system and primarily coming with Dana 35 axles since the beginning, but there was a Dana 44 option between 87’-91’. Don’t let its smaller size fool you, there’s room for four passengers and space for days, making it a great expedition rig for friends and family to tag along. Credits: http://www.axialracing.com/
Anyone with any racing experience will tell you that jumping from class to class isn’t as easy as just selecting a new model on your transmitter and picking up a new truck. And, many people think that because the scale appeal of short course attracts so many newcomers to the hobby that the class is for beginners and thus easy. The point is that short course racing takes just as much skill as any other class and even experienced racers can have a hard time adapting and succeeding. If you want to run at the front of the pack, check out these five tips:
Racing is all about going fast, right? Well, if you’re constantly flying into corners, spraying dirt everywhere and ripping down the straights, you’re doing it wrong. You might feel like you’re going really fast and that may work to some degree with an overpowered truggy, but it’s the slow way to get a short course truck around the track. This is especially true if you’re in the 17.5-turn class. You can get away with a little bit of a heavy-handed driving style with 4WD class short course truck, but it is essential that you drive smoothly. You should drive like you have an egg strapped to your truck. Drive smoothly and try to keep your truck always rolling.
2. Stay Out of Trouble
I lot of people think short course is the class where it’s OK to beat and bash. Let them think that and let them smash into each other. Just keep your distance and let the action unfold—don’t be a part of it. You’ll lose far less time by slightly hanging back in comparison to getting involved in a wreck. Think about the time you lose when you crash and then have to wait for a corner marshal as compared to when you just ease back a bit and wait for the right time to make a move. We’re talking the difference between ten seconds and a tenth of a second or maybe the difference between first and third.
3. Passing vs. Catching
There’s a difference? There very much is a difference between catching someone and passing them, but you’d never know it watching the typical RC race. Most racers just race as fast as they can try to get around people as they catch them. It sounds good, but catching and passing are simply two different acts. When you catch someone think about whether you’re at a good place to pass. Some slow cars can be blown by down the straight, but keep in mind that a phenomenon called target fixation almost always occurs when you try to pass someone on the straight. They focus on your car and essentially subconsciously drive right into. It looks like they’re trying to squeeze you off the straight, but usually it’s just an unintended rookie type mistake. The point is it’s almost always better to pass in corners. Drivers of equal ability will take some work (that’s what makes racing fun), but there is usually a corner or two they go wide on and most newer drivers are usually easy to pass on the corner going into the main straight as the almost always fly in wide and get back on the gas too soon. Just slow to the inside and out accelerate the on exit.
4. Like a Sports Car
Short course trucks are just like sports cars. Makes perfectly good sense…if you have experience with the racing of full-size cars—either as a driver or an entrenched fan. You see, sports car or road course racers know that you brake in straight lines and accelerate in corners. This is the foundation of proper performance driving. You should be 100% done slowing down before you get to a corner and you should be accelerating through and out of the corner.
5. Practice Smart
There may be no such thing as bad practice, but some practice is definitely better than others. Most racers get their practice in by showing up early on race day. They’ll get there hours before they really need to and then spend most of that time shooting the bull with the other “diehards” that show up at the crack of dawn. When the early birds do hit the track it’s on a dry track that is nothing like the one they’ll race on. Experimenting with tires and setup at this stage is completely pointless as while that practice is valuable, the track is simply nowhere near race shape. It’s far better to stay late and drive on the track after racing has concluded. Check with the race director first, but most don’t mind and you’ll be running on a track in is much closer to race condition. This is the time to try every tire combo you can think of and mess with your shocks. Credits: Matt Higginshttp://rctruckstop.com/http://
Radio controlled vehicles/craft can be fairly cleanly divided into two categories, toy and hobby-level. The toy type are what most people think of when you mention “RC” — buy-and-drive playthings that you can purchase from a toy or electronics store. These are made strictly for the sake of fun. Then there are the more sophisticated and capable models targeted towards hobbyists who want to go faster, tinker with settings and upgrades, and perhaps participate in one of the many levels of established competitive events. Neither class of RC is necessarily “better” — they each have their positive and negative qualities. However, when you’re first starting out, it’s very worthwhile to choose which way you want to go up front, long before you pull out your credit card. This article presents the most important facts that can help you make an informed decision.
Toy R/C cars & trucks that you can buy at places like Toys R Us or Walmart start at $20-25 USD, and the most extreme ones top out around $150. Toy R/C planes start at around $30. When you step up to the hobby level, you’ll be hard pressed to find something complete for under $130. It’s very easy to spend $400-500 on a 1/10th scale car or truck that will last awhile, and a fully upgraded rig can easily shoot up to $2,000-3,000 USD.
In most cases, there’s really no comparison between the performance of toy and hobby-level RCs. Most toy cars & trucks will go anywhere from 5mph to 15mph, with the fastest few doing 20-24mph. Hobby-level RCs generally start at 15-25mph for electrics and 25-35mph for nitro versions. You can get monster trucks that will do over 40mph out of the box, and low-slung street cars that will do over 60 with no upgrades or modifications. In planes, the toys generally go around 5-15mph, while there are hobby-class craft that will do 30, 50, even 80mph in factory stock form. The most extreme speed differences are in boats. The toys often putt and crawl along at 1-5mph, while the hottest hobby-level racing boats will skim the surface at over 100mph
Mostly because they’re slow, toy RCs tend to handle more abuse than their more expensive cousins. The most common things to break are bumpers and body trim. The land and water-borne vehicles are built with a lot more material than is necessary, while aircraft tend to be constructed of foam and flexible plastics that bounce back after being bent. However…
When they break…
Repairing a toy RC is sometimes not worth the time & effort. Nearly all use multifunction circuit boards that combine several major functions, so if something goes electrically wrong, you have to change out the whole thing. Most manufacturers don’t have a factory service program, so you have to do the work yourself. Many don’t even offer a way to order new parts. Nikko is a notable exception. You can call them, tell them exactly what vehicle you have, describe the problem, and order precisely the part(s) you need. Many RC’s available at Radio Shack are actually from Nikko and are covered by this same level of support, with the additional convenience of being able to go back to the store and special-order your parts in person.
Fixing hobby-level RCs is, in most cases, a completely different affair. You can disassemble anything yourself. With most popular brands there are manuals and exploded views. There are service departments that handle returns of defective components. Electronics are, with rare exception, separated by function so that you don’t have to change your speed controller if your radio receiver crystal goes bad. Parts are available at brick-and-mortar hobby shops and dozens of trusted, popular web sites. There are online forums (message boards) where you can ask other hobbyists for advice and learn from their experience.
These days, ever more toy RCs have upgrades available for purchase from the original manufacturer, particularly amongst the smaller “micro” cars and trucks. These upgrades can range from different body kits to stickier tires to faster motors. They’re generally very easy to install, requiring at most a small screwdriver (which is often included) and 15 minutes, and can dramatically change the look or performance of the vehicle. They’re also great fun to install and let the owner add a bit of their own personality.
The most popular hobby RCs may have literally hundreds of upgrades available from many different aftermarket sources (companies other than the original manufacturer). Among the available upgrades may be anything from scale-realistic wheels to anodized aluminum struts in various colors to larger motors/engines to total conversion kits that fundamentally change the vehicle. Many hobby-level RC parts are reusable from one vehicle to another, especially electronic components and motors/engines. Popular RC models come with the support of other owners nationwide or around the world who share their experiences, tips, and home-grown modifications freely on the Internet.
Toy radio systems traditionally give you forward/reverse (or up/down) and left/right direction control. A growing number of cars & trucks these days now have “digital proportional” steering to boot, which gives you a number of steps between neutral and full turning, depending upon how far you turn the wheel or push the stick on the radio transmitter. Some, though, only let you go straight forward or to turn one pre-set direction in reverse. Toy helicopters are what you have to watch out for the most, as these sometimes give you only one axis of control — go straight up, or come straight down. Most toy RC’s are still only available on two frequencies (e.g., 27mhz and 49mhz in the US), with a few now offering 3 to 6 possibilities. This limits the number of vehicles that can run at one time, but more unfortunately it reduces the possibility of even being able to run two random vehicles together.
Hobby-class radio systems give you 64 to 256 (or more) steps of control in each direction for what feels like perfectly smooth turning & throttle control. These systems can also be easily changed between anywhere from 6 to 30 different frequencies, so even if the one person you want to race against or fly with has an absolutely identical radio setup, for around $20 and with a one-minute part swap, you’re both in the clear. Still better, the most recent generation of radio systems, while expensive, operate on an extremely high frequency and use small computer chips to automatically search for and lock onto an open channel, ensuring that you’ll never have a frequency conflict.
Toy RCs can be raced between siblings or friends around the neighborhood, but there’s generally no sanctioned racing. Hobby-level RCs are raced around the world in local, regional, national, and even international events, even including multi-track tours.
When all is said and done, the purchase decision between toy & hobby-level RCs should always come down to who the purchase is being made for. You don’t want to buy a $390, 45mph nitro-powered car for a 6-year-old. Likewise, a 16-year-old who wants to get into RC racing for sport wouldn’t be well-served by a $39 toy. What’s really interesting is the 26-year-old with a $25 micro-sized monster truck who would derive hours of fun from chasing his/her cat around the kitchen floor or gingerly driving around a makeshift desktop obstacle course during lunchtime at work. Before you buy an RC, know who you’re buying it for and do a little research. That extra time spent up front could make the difference between tremendous fun and awkward disappointment. Credits: http://www.beginningrc.com/http://
Need More Steering?
• Batteries – Move batteries towards the front of the vehicle.
• Front Shock Mounting – Move the lower shock mount towards the outside
• Front Camber Link – Longer camber links increase steering
• Front Ride Height – Lower the front ride height
• Rear Ride Height – Raise rear ride height for more high speed steering
• Rear Shock Mounting – Move upper mount towards outside
• Wheelbase – Lengthen the wheelbase for more steering
• Rear Toe-in – Decrease rear toe-in
• Ackerman – Use less Ackerman for more sensitive steering Need More Traction?
• Batteries – Move batteries towards the rear of the vehicle
• Rear Ride Height – Lower rear ride height
• Rear Camber – Less camber (0 -1 deg.)
• Camber Link – Longer camber links
• Rear Shock Mounting – Move upper mount towards the inside
• Wheelbase – Shorten the wheelbase
• Rear Toe-in – Increase rear toe-in
• Slipper – Loosen slipper so wheels don’t spin as much Need Better Jumping?
• Shock Oil – If bouncing too much or bottoms out over jumps, use heavier oil
• Shock Pistons – If bottoming out over jumps, use smaller hole pistons
• Rear Shock Mounting – If bottoming out over jumps move upper mount towards he outside
• Battery Position – If nose high during jumps, move battery forward, move rearward if nose is down during jumps
• Weight – Add weight to nose if it’s too high during jumps Need More High Speed Steering?
• Front Toe – More toe-in gives you more steering coming out of the corners
• Front Caster – Less caster gives you more steering exiting corners
• Rear Ride Height – Raise rear ride height for more high speed steering More Stable Over Rough Tracks?
• Anti-squat – Less anti-squat allows better acceleration on rough tracks
• Rear Camber – More negative camber is more stable on bumpy tracks
• Rear Camber Link – Shorter camber links is more stable on bumpy tracks
• Front Shock Mounting – Move lower shock mount inside for bumpy tracks
• Battery Mounting – Place in the middle for most stable on all tracks Credits: rcracingusa.net http://
The Yeti™ SCORE® Trophy Truck® RTR is THE ONE that Axial has been working towards for a long time! We’ve always wanted to build a Trophy Truck®, but we first had to build a successful platform. For authenticity, it had to be solid rear axle versus the commonly accepted independent suspension all the way around. Some would consider this “going backwards.” But Axial didn’t just accept what the establishment said was the only way, we wanted true scale looks with the functionality to match. When we delivered the Yeti™ Rock Racer with its IFS front end and solid rear axle, we knew then we had the key ingredients to deliver the vehicle of our dreams – our very own solid rear axle trophy truck! And to top it off we went straight to Roger Norman, CEO/President of SCORE® International, for his blessing and for official licensing.
SCORE® International, the premier world championship desert racing association, was founded in 1973 by the legendary Mickey Thompson. This race organization is home to the world famous Baja 1000 and Baja 500 events. If you live in Southern California, chances are you have seen the iconic red, white and blue SCORE® decals adorning off road vehicles all over the place. This desert racing series was the early inspiration for short course racing events, as organizers tried to bring desert racing to the masses in confined spaces. That’s right, short course off road racing was born in the desert. In true Axial style, we brought you a new R/C vehicle replicating desert racing’s top level competition vehicles, the SCORE® Trophy Truck®.
Axial didn’t stop there. We partnered with the top companies actively developing their products through desert racing to take authenticity to the next level. The Axial SCORE® Trophy Truck® is suspended by a set of aluminum King Shocks rocking the iconic blue shock caps, rod ends, ride height adjusters and springs. King Shocks is a company who has all but dominated the sport through the years providing the latest technology known to man to conquer the harsh terrain of Baja.
Axial also partnered with BFGoodrich® to bring you accurate replicas of the latest spec desert racing tire, the Baja T/A® KR2. This tire has already produced wins at both the Baja 1000 and the grueling King of the Hammers events. A set of five functional BFGoodrich® tires mounted to the extremely strong 105 Method Race wheels provide the connection to dirt. The fifth wheel and tire being a functional spare accessed quickly from the rear of the Trophy Truck® cage.
The other partners on this vehicle are names synonymous with success in the desert:
Rigid Industries – The best lighting available for pitch black night racing in Baja
Lowrance – GPS units to help keep you on course in extremely dusty conditions
Fuel Safe – Custom fuel bladders for the aluminum fuel cells on board.
Pro Am Racing products – Spindles, hubs, brakes and power steering racks
Magnaflow – Exhaust systems for maximum performance and mean sound
PCI Race Radios – Communication between driver, co-driver, chase vehicles and pits
Rancho Drivetrain Engineering – Bullet proof transmissions
Sparco – Safety equipment, and the best molded seats in the business. Credits: http://www.axialracing.com/products/ax90050http://http://
On a beautiful warm sunny day, spending time with your family and friends, what better way to fulfill that enjoyment than with a remote controlled boat & pickup truck at the lake. You’ll have hours of delight plus memories to cherish for a lifetime. http://http://http://http://